DrawerBox

Acid free corrugated costs about triple standard currgated to manufacture, so no matter where you go it is going to be more expensive. But before spending that kind of money anyone should ask themselves first why they feel they need acid free boxes. Here is a little bit of science to consider: 1. The acidity in comics comes from the high lignin content in the pulp paper, NOT from the boxes or any external source. In fact, pulp paper produces more acidity than corrugated board. 2. Ph levels migrates from higher acid to base not the opposite. So the boxes are more threatened to yellow over time by the comics inside than the other way around. 3. Plastic bags act as a barrier against acidity. So one might safely conclude that not only are acid free boxes provide no more protection than standard corrugated. Your money is far better invested in good bags and backing boards. And backing boards need to be acid free throughout, not just coated or "acid free at date of manufacture" since they, too, can produce acidity over time and come in contact with the book and coatings will wear off over time. Rich

First of all, I question the assumption that the best way to preserve a comic is to have it graded and slabbed. All that is done to protect a slabbed comic is they insert a couple of sheets of acid absorbing microchamber paper. You can purchase those and insert them yourself. I suppose there is some benefit to being encased in a rigid hard shell casing, but you can purchase those as well. if you are already using acid free (NOT just coated!) boards and Mylites and avoiding packing them too tightly you have done a lot. As long as the bags aren't too snug due to the thickness of the annuals, it sounds like you have been very prudent. I consider storing them in oversize Golden Age bags to be a poor suggestion. Oversize bags introduces the possibility of the book rotating slightly in the bag such that the corners become blunted. The best advice is to ignore the advice of strangers who may not have been collecting long enough to know what effect their suggestions have over the long term. The Internet is plagued with far too many blogs and videos from collectors who have very little experience in long term preservation. Another suggestion in this thread that I question is laying them flat. This is only practical if no weight is ever stacked on top of the book. Nothing will cause a curl in the spine faster than weight being stacked on top. And even then you have to consider how you are going to protect them from dust. I am curious to know what caused the compression you mentioned at the bottom of the spine. I have never encountered that and it seems like it would have to be due to some localized type of pressure. My collection started almost 60 years ago, long before bags, boards, slabbing, and even long boxes were invented. Most of my books are still in 9.+ condition with only very slight yellowing. I have learned over the years that most of the damage that occurs is self inflicted or from the environment, i.e. storing them where there is to much heat, humidity or pests or other forms of carelessness. Not to say an acid free backing board and a Mylite to keep the board flat against the comic is a bad idea to prevent bending. But all of that expense and effort can be wasted in a room that is too hot. To quote the great Walt Kelly's Pogo, "We have met the enemy and he is us". At the bottom of this page is an article that discusses what really damages comics long term and is often overlooked by collectors: www.CollectionDrawer.com Rich

While I have never stacked them, here is some science that will help answer your question. EGerber's website says all their boxes are made out of 200# corrugated cardboard. In the cardboard industry this measurement is normally referred to as 200# test. The measurement refers to the amount of pressure necessary to puncture the material. In other words, it would take 200# of pressure on a blunt instrument to poke a hole through the sheet. Obviously, this is not typically a problem for collectors. The correct measurement for stackability is called the ECT rating -- for Edge Crush Test. That measurement determines how much weight in pounds per inch that it takes for the material to collapse. But there are some rough equivalencies. 250# test usually rates at about 33# per inch. (Keep in mind that this is linear, supporting the weight of a cube. In practical terms long boxes made of 250# test will support a little under 100#, which is 2 long boxes of comics. So we can assume that 200# test is somewhat less than that. You can get around this slightly by stacking the boxes in a cross pattern, that is 3 boxes going one direction and the 3 on top perpendicular to that direction. This is because strength is focused on the corners of any box (The same principal as the corrugation). DrawerBoxes get around this math because the shells have an ECT rating of 44# per inch as certified by the manufacturer. They use the strongest papers in the hobby. And they add to it an inner support sleeved with an ECT rating of almost 80#, for a total support of 124# ECT. They are specifically designed to be stacked whereas long and short boxes are not. A full long DrawerBox weighs 42#-50# depending on whether the comics are older on newsprint or newer on slick paper (Slick paper is heavier). Since the DrawerBoxes stress test at over 280#, 5 can be stacked on top of the bottom one for total of 250#. Hope this helps and I haven't bored you with the math.

While this may be an older thread, since Google keeps bringing it up in searches, it's probably worth correcting some misunderstandings. Plastic boxes (a.k.a. Corplas) are more water resistant that corrugated, however, there are some significant "Yes, buts" in that answer. The operative word is resistant. It is true water will not penetrate the material, whereas corrugated will absorb or wick water over time. But all corplas boxes are made of a flat sheet and use a fold over design to form a box. This means there are open seams on every corner that water will readily leak through. If you worry that water may come from above, such as from a broken pipe, then they offer some limited protection. But they offer no protection from water from flooding. Another characteristic of corplas is it is less rigid that corrugated. This means the material is subject to flexing and will not support much weight. If you anticipate stacking boxes at all corplas would be a poor choice. One of the advantages of corrugated is it can be made with different weights of papers and fluting to increase strength, both stacking and tear resistance. If you had problems with corrugated tearing, it is likely a cheap grade of cardboard. Avoid any boxes that use 200# or 250# test cardboard. That is a low grade which, unfortunately, is used by most comic box manufacturers. Another common misunderstanding mentioned in this thread is the need for acid free. The source of most acidity that yellows comic pages comes from the lignin in the newsprint. Since acidity migrates from more acidic to base, typically the boxes are more in danger from acidity than the comics themselves. Where this becomes really important is in your choice of backing boards since they are next to the comics. Most, including "acid free coated", can be a source of problems. There is a study about this posted in the preservation blog at www.CollectionDrawer.com.

Guaranteed to be stronger than any of the boxes listed above so they are completely stackable up to 6 high AND all you have to do is open a drawer to get to to the contents. You can also mix mags with slabbed comics if you don't have enough to fill one of the drawers. Also holds more than any above. 4 for $44.00 plus shipping: http://www.collectiondrawer.com/magazines

The baking soda is a reasonable suggestion since it is a base. But since there are varying degrees of smell I am wondering if some have mildew or mold. That is my first thought when I walk into a store with that "old comic smell". I have a lot of comics that are 50+ years old and have no smell at all. I suspect a lot of it has to do with living in a very dry climate (Colorado) and mold and mildew are fairly rare here.

Not sure that I clearly understand your description. A photo would help. But if my understanding is correct, you need to check your floor to make sure it is level. Many floors are not and will create leaning problems and cause boxes to be out of square when they are stacked. Since BCW boxes use lightweight materials they are particularly vulnerable. Even a slight slope will cause more problems than most people realize. You can check this with a level. Rich