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kingjohn3

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  1. Does CGC consider a book to be "Incomplete" if the code sticker is removed?
  2. Yeah I'm leaning toward the boards as well being one of the main contributors to problem. I've seen bags that are 20+ years old that have turned all sticky and yellow but the book seems to be ok whereas the board has the back cover ghosted on to it. That's can't be good. Anyone else wants to weigh in feel free
  3. I have finally decided that Mylites2 standard 7" and Full Backs are the way to go but I still have a few questions about the old poly's and boards I used. When it comes to chemical reactions do the boards or bags cause more damage? My poly's are both newer Polyethylene & Polypropylene and the boards are coated on one side. If there's going to be a chemical breakdown that would damage the book inside would it more likely come from the bag or board?
  4. Of course I'd love to have 9.8 (not necessarily slabbed) across the board and fill my collection with them but here's my question. How realistic is that? Buying raw on ebay you just take your chances because individual grading is extremely subjective and buying slabbed can break the bank. For those of you that have huge un-slabbed collections and like the highest grade possible what do you settle for? For me I tend to stick within 9.0-9.6 and hope I get some 9.8's along the way but the problem is I sometimes cant seem to grasp how a book would grade out to determine if its NM or not. For example if a book is virtually flawless everywhere else but the spine has tiny stress marks all up & down (no color break) to me that would be a VF+ but maybe I'm being too strict. Maybe an easier way to ask that would be how many of these tiny stress marks can there be until it drops into VF range?
  5. Thanks for the link! I've seen them on youtube while looking but I'll double check them
  6. Yeah the sarcasm is stong with some. Im definitely not looking to make this a business venture, just wanna learn how. Thanks for the heads up
  7. Well everyone that does it had to learn somehow. I have too many old 70's books that are good candidates to be pressed. Not willing to let go of that kind of money if I can do it myself as long as the upfront cost isnt outrageous
  8. I'm just now starting to research pressing and was wondering if any pros have any tips
  9. Best options for the $$$ Most can agree that Mylars and Half/Full Backs are the optimum choice for bags and boards. That being said what are the pros and cons of Polyethylene (PE) and Polypropylene (PP)? I've researched this quite a bit and have discovered that it really comes down to personal preference but if someone cant or isnt willing to fork over the cash for thousands of mylars what do you guys say are the next best option? I know that PP looks nicer due to it's clarity but is that the extent of it? PE seems to be more sturdy and would offer more protection. My books are stored at room temp with virtually no light exposure at all so which one is preferred by hardcore collectors?
  10. Best pic I could get. More yellowy in person. So what do you think?
  11. I'll try to get a pic soon of what I have. Well I guess Gerberizing my collection is a no brainer but I'm thinking of using them with my "Archival Safe" NON- mylar BCW bags. Is that acceptable in terms of keeping a collection safe if I replace the bags every 5 or so years or does that defeat the purpose? Is there any kind of weird chemical reaction that could happen between the Gerber boards and polypropylene bags?
  12. Questions on bagging and boarding Hey y'all. I've been collecting comics consistently for about 25 years and have amassed a decent collection, mostly modern stuff. My big 3 are Superman, Batman and Spider-Man `and I plan on building my Bronze Age collection of those characters so needless to say there will eventually be quite a few comics to deal with. Unfortunately in the beginning before paying too much attention to how I handled books then and, at the time being a new ebay user, I had to replace some of the lesser grade books (VF and under) with better NM copies. All that being said I have recently had to re-bag and board everything and wound up using various "acid free" boards and BCW SA 7 1/8 bags. I never liked how books would shift when all lined up in a row the same way so I now use use 2 boards and comics per bag and it seems to be working out great. It adds an extra level of stability and fits good n snug. (Just make sure you grab them in the middle when picking a few up). Anyways, Now for my questions. 1) Does anyone else do this? If so what are your thoughts on it? 2) Is it safe for the spine of the books? 3) Besides mylar bags what brand name might be better than BCW? So far they're the only ones I've found that if the label says 7 1/8 its actually 7 1/8, all others seem to be 7 1/4 (Ultra Pro and CDS seem to be bad about that) 4) Is anyone aware of any SA boards wider than 7"? 5) Anyone have any experience with BCW TRIPLE strength long boxes? Any help is appreciated. Thank guys
  13. Didn't think so. I maybe should explain further what I have. I have a 2" thick stack of empty bags that look and feel like Mylar but when they're all stacked together like that it's a dirty yellow color. Does that mean these are not true Mylars? I also have some with old boards in them that I cant tell if they are legit, any way to tell?
  14. Can anyone tell me if Mylar bags will yellow over time? I have a ton of them and I thought that's the exact thing there were not supposed to do