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Archival Hinges
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16 posts in this topic

I’m getting a large number of pieces framed and wanted to get consensus that the hinges my framer is using won’t create any long term issues. See below for the first piece she has framed as well as pictures of the hinging tape box.

Are these hinges safe? I’m primarily concerned with any risk of long term damage to the art or difficulty removing the hinges if I ever take the art out of the frame. 

DA453127-FECA-406C-829C-C795AD0F0505.jpeg

A90D9049-3220-4A15-BAF6-5528A3C095BB.jpeg

B3E8ADA1-2808-4407-BC9E-FE497F45F30B.jpeg

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LINECO makes great archival products, and I honestly wouldn't be concerned at all with those hinges. They're acid free and archival quality, and they're reversible with just a tiny bit of water.

I've actually did some due diligence researching hinges and ended up using those same exact hinges to mount a large (and very heavy) Takashi Murakami print.

However, if you're still not swayed, you can possibly ask her to use some of these other LINECO products.

These photo corners will prevent the art from touching any adhesive, and similar to the hinges, they're archival and acid-free (though saying them both might be redundant). My only issue with them is that if you're not careful sliding in the corners into those mounts, the corners can catch on the "sleeve" and it couple split and/or ding the corners.

https://www.amazon.com/Lineco-Acid-Free-Non-Yellowing-Scrapbooking-Displaying/dp/B004BNF7JG/?th=1

My favorite DIY option is these

https://www.amazon.com/Lineco-L533-4015-Strips-1-25Inx-Multicolor/dp/B002US00PK/

I've found a way to use them backwards so that they secure the art to the mat board, but are hidden from view. Let me get pics.

 

 

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On 12/3/2021 at 10:17 AM, aqn83 said:

LINECO makes great archival products, and I honestly wouldn't be concerned at all with those hinges. They're acid free and archival quality, and they're reversible with just a tiny bit of water.

I've actually did some due diligence researching hinges and ended up using those same exact hinges to mount a large (and very heavy) Takashi Murakami print.

However, if you're still not swayed, you can possibly ask her to use some of these other LINECO products.

These photo corners will prevent the art from touching any adhesive, and similar to the hinges, they're archival and acid-free (though saying them both might be redundant). My only issue with them is that if you're not careful sliding in the corners into those mounts, the corners can catch on the "sleeve" and it couple split and/or ding the corners.

https://www.amazon.com/Lineco-Acid-Free-Non-Yellowing-Scrapbooking-Displaying/dp/B004BNF7JG/?th=1

My favorite DIY option is these

https://www.amazon.com/Lineco-L533-4015-Strips-1-25Inx-Multicolor/dp/B002US00PK/

I've found a way to use them backwards so that they secure the art to the mat board, but are hidden from view. Let me get pics.

 

 

Thank you! This is incredibly helpful and really puts me at ease. I’ve asked around before and everyone has assured me they’re fine, but the words “gummed” and “water” keep making me anxious. Particularly since some of the pieces are on thinner paper and not Bristol board. I assume when you say they’re reversible with a tiny bit of water, it really is a very minuscule amount?

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On 12/3/2021 at 9:25 AM, Varanis said:

Thank you! This is incredibly helpful and really puts me at ease. I’ve asked around before and everyone has assured me they’re fine, but the words “gummed” and “water” keep making me anxious. Particularly since some of the pieces are on thinner paper and not Bristol board. I assume when you say they’re reversible with a tiny bit of water, it really is a very minuscule amount?

If it's on much thinner paper, I might advise to use one of the other options. I don't think the amount of water it takes to activate/deactivate the adhesive is enough to buckle the paper, but I can't be certain not knowing the paper, and i'm certainly not a professional.

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On 12/3/2021 at 8:25 AM, aqn83 said:

Since professional framing is so god damn expensive, these is kind of my intermediate step to get the pieces I have presentable until I decide to finally get them professional framed.

 

IMG_1918.thumb.jpg.a64f6b807f1518d6731a1d07ede23704.jpgIMG_1916.thumb.jpg.2c517feec47766181b7b9b54f260087c.jpg

That is how all of my artwork is framed

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On 12/3/2021 at 1:40 PM, batman_fan said:

That is how all of my artwork is framed

I don't understand why such a solution isn't more common.  When I went to the framers recently, they just used the archival tape (which i'm fine with), but I'd be most comfortable with a situation like those plastic lips that so there's no tape touching the art.  So long as those lips are of archival material, I don't see why that shouldn't be the standard.  What am I not understanding about framing that makes archival tape better?

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On 12/3/2021 at 9:19 PM, ExNihilo said:

I don't understand why such a solution isn't more common.  When I went to the framers recently, they just used the archival tape (which i'm fine with), but I'd be most comfortable with a situation like those plastic lips that so there's no tape touching the art.  So long as those lips are of archival material, I don't see why that shouldn't be the standard.  What am I not understanding about framing that makes archival tape better?

I have never actually had a framer frame anything for me.  I buy all my frames from American Frames and do it myself.  I find it lower stress (can't imagine leaving an expensive piece with a framer).  Total cost to set up doing it yourself is less than $50.

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On 12/3/2021 at 8:31 PM, batman_fan said:

I have never actually had a framer frame anything for me.  I buy all my frames from American Frames and do it myself.  I find it lower stress (can't imagine leaving an expensive piece with a framer).  Total cost to set up doing it yourself is less than $50.

I take it to the framers because I'm gonna end up buying the the museum acrylic glass anyways.

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I hope everyone is using archival materials for backing and matting.  I've received framed art that used cardboard for backing (with lots of foxing as a result), and seen plenty of art damaged by incompetent glueing that had to be undone at great expense.  I've wondered if the sorry state of that $1M Wrightson Frankenstein plate was the result of several years of $50 framing.

Even if you're just keeping your art in portfolios, using archival corners to attach it to (acid-free) backing boards can prevent the corners getting damaged in the portfolio, and can give the portfolio a nice "book" appearance like a personalized artists edition.  Of course, you should also store the pages in mylar, those polypropylene portfolios are not archival, no matter what they claim in their promotional materials.

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On 12/4/2021 at 5:11 AM, Taylor G said:

I hope everyone is using archival materials for backing and matting.  I've received framed art that used cardboard for backing (with lots of foxing as a result), and seen plenty of art damaged by incompetent glueing that had to be undone at great expense.  I've wondered if the sorry state of that $1M Wrightson Frankenstein plate was the result of several years of $50 framing.

Even if you're just keeping your art in portfolios, using archival corners to attach it to (acid-free) backing boards can prevent the corners getting damaged in the portfolio, and can give the portfolio a nice "book" appearance like a personalized artists edition.  Of course, you should also store the pages in mylar, those polypropylene portfolios are not archival, no matter what they claim in their promotional materials.

I did this very thing with my 11x17 portfolio. All the pieces that were not 11x17, I mounted them to sheets of archival paper to keep them from sliding around.

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