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Long-Term Storage Research

29 posts in this topic

Hi Guys,

 

This is my first post to these message boards and so far I have enjoyed lurking around and reading the discussions in here for the past few days. I have done a lot of web research on long-term comic book storage and so far 4mil Mylar bags with a carbon buffered acid free backing sounds like the winning combination along with acid free boxes. Does anyone here have any ideas on better storage options? I prefer TimeLoks and Mylar from Bob Cole's. I haven't had any problems using the two together and prefer a snug fit for my comics as long as the comic isn't damaged. As of now I have little interest in submitting to CGC and would like to see results of research on the testing they have done with their holders.

 

What do people use who have stored some of the most valuable pedigree comics?

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"I prefer TimeLoks and Mylar from Bob Cole's. I haven't had any problems using the two together and prefer a snug fit for my comics as long as the comic isn't damaged."

 

the comics not getting damaged is the point. i found that using timeloks with full-backs caused my comic books to 'squish'. (i am talking silver books here) the fit is far too snug, and putting the book into the sleeve was a worrying experience.

in the end i took my books out of timeloks for my own piece of mind and now use mylites2 (they're great and cheaper) with full-back acid free boards.

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Thanks Rickdogg, I was reading that thread just now and found it very informing! smile.gif

 

Blowout, I haven't worked with Silver Age comics. But, so far I have fit the Mylars and TimeLoks with only current size comics with products designed for the current size. If Silver Ages are thicker then I wonder if going one size up would help... the idea of having an acid free backing that can actually de-acidify (to some extent) the pages within gives me more confidence.

 

What damage could be caused by too tight a fit? I would image spine stress?

 

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What damage could be caused by too tight a fit? I would image spine stress?

 

as i said the comic 'squishes' kinda looks like the spine rotates slightly, twists.

the main damage potential is when putting in or removing from mylar though it is actually an effort to push the book in. didn't realise they made timeloks for modern books, anyway now i much prefer the mylites2.

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Well, blowout, I have noticed that it is somewhat difficult to get the comics into the Mylars with the backing. To help, I usually "break in" the Mylar before placing my comic book. This involves folding back the top flap just enough to keep it out of the way and also pressing in at the sides to open the Mylar. Usually, this will prepare the Mylar for an easier fit. I haven't noticed signs of spine roll yet, but on my next purchase I may go up a size just to make sure... I don't mind paying extra for the storage because I don't have that many comics to store for the long-term and it sounds like Bill Cole's is one of the highest in quality.

 

Also, why couldn't CGC make their holders a little less bulky? It seem like they can streamline the holder a bit more...

 

Now, I may look at EGerber for a less expensive storage method for long-term storage of mid-grade or non-key comics.

 

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in the end i took my books out of timeloks for my own piece of mind and now use mylites2 (they're great and cheaper) with full-back acid free boards.

 

I'll happily chime in to agree here... Every Silver Age book in my shop is stored in Mylites2, and every book I have picked up in the last three years is in a Mylites2 with a Full-Back. (I still have a few books in the boxes with regular boards that haven't been upgraded.)

 

I've got around 4200 Silver Age books in stock right now and I have been extremely pleased with this storage method. The Mylites2 are thick enough to stay flat and avoid that "crinkly" texture you get with the 1mm Mylars. Plus at that thickness if you need to open them, you can hold the bottom half of the tape down with your thumb, peel the mylar up at a 45 degree angle and the mylar edge slices the tape open for you with no hanging tape to snag on a book. And the fact that they stay closed gives protection from both recirculating air and flying Mountain Dew. The extra thick Full-Backs give the book enough support that you can take the book and board out together, minimize the risk of damage.

 

If you are looking for permanent archival storage, there are other methods to consider, but most of us need to periodically take a book out to scan it or let a customer take a closer look... At around 32c a book in quantity a Mylites2 and a Full-Back is a great choice...

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Howdy and welcome! I think you meaqn "calcium carbonate" buffer. smile.gif

 

My collecting area is Atom Age - now concentrating on pre-code horror but have many of the Jungle/Jumbo/Sheena/Dagar Desert Hawk type books. I use GA sized mylars and buffered backing boards.They are a bit bigger than the books and no scrunching issues. However, I am intrigues by the talk here about 2mil mylites. Have never seen them but what I hear on this forum sounds encouraging.

 

If you want to get into advanced stoarge then a nitrogen-gas impregnated environment is the way to go. But it is a tad pricey!

 

Keep them cool and dry in a consistent low heat/humidity environment and your books will jump and and thank you.

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2-mil mylites with full backing boards are the way to go. The bags are supple enough to fold the flap back to remove the book (4-mils aren't so friendly), yet thick/strong enough to keep your books from physical damage. Tip - you can get custom-sized boards from Gerber for basically the same price as their pre-cuts, which allows you to experiment to find the best book/board/bag combo for your books. Their silver/bronze boards used to be cut to pretty much the same height as the comics, but thanks to insightful customer feedback grin.gif , they corrected that problem and now have some overlap. Also, I always try to use the next size board (use silver boards from bronze) to make it easier to take the book out of the bag, and keep it from getting thumb creases at the top of the front cover.

 

4-mils with open tops are dangerous - they allow foreign material to "fall" into the bag (coffee, water, beer), and when shipped between taped pieces of cardboard, the book can slide out and get snagged on the tape mad.gif They also have a tendency to open/spread out at the top, which can deform the book.

 

Speaking of deforming the book, I have reservations about long-term storage damage from the inner well of the CGC holder. I've seen way too many books that are slightly warped in their CGC cases due to the inner well being deformed from the weld-sealing process (they don't lay flat). This is more problematic on modern/bronze books than the "stiffer" older books. A friend of mine has some clear backing boards (not sure where they come from), which might be something CGC should consider. I'm guessing a 40-50 mil Mylar sheet would work...

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lighthouse and Drbanner, I am beginning to like the sound of 2mil over 4mil. cool.gif As long as the 2mil bags are well made and will hold up with a thick backing then I really have no problem with it. As of now, I like the thickness of the 4mil bags. They are very stiff and sturdy. The top flap is a little harder to deal with. If 2mil makes it easier to get the comic in and out of the bag and they are sturdy enough then I may start using those!

 

povertyrow, is there something that can actually be placed in a comic box to absorb gases released by the further acidifications (once the backings fail)?

 

Also, Drbanner, I noticed that CGC comics don't seem flat. It also appears that if the frame were broken then that could cause damage to the comic. I would like for them to use a clear backing and also take a half inch off the top. Maybe place the label and grade information on the edge to keep the entire holder more streamline.

 

And I think nitrogen protection is a little out of my league... shocked.gif

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The current recommendation is that you change your full-backs every 25 years or so... and your Mylars every 300-500 years... so I don't think you have much to worry about in terms of what happens when the boards fail. smile.gif

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povertyrow, is there something that can actually be placed in a comic box to absorb gases released by the further acidifications (once the backings fail)?

 

The backing boards should handle that ok, as long as they are archival 3% calcium carbonate buffered. This buffering agent will neutralize airborn acids for that "minty look". grin.gif

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Polypropylene and polyethylene bags should be changed every 18-24 months... Typical 'acid-free' boards are good for 2-5 years...

 

I have a display on the wall in my shop of sets of 10 bags that are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 years old. When you look at one bag it's not as noticeable, but you can read a newspaper through ten new bags, you can make out the headlines through 10 bags that are 4 years old, and probably cannot distinguish there IS a newspaper through ten 7 year old bags... Anyone who has purchased collections and generated a yellow-green pile of plastic on the floor knows exactly what I am talking about.

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"The backing boards should handle that ok, as long as they are archival 3% calcium carbonate buffered."

 

if the boards handle the acid from the books and the books are in mylar, is there any need then for an acid free box?

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if the boards handle the acid from the books and the books are in mylar, is there any need then for an acid free box?

 

Yes, by using them you cut back on the amount of acid in the immediate environment. The acids in the book are fairly integrated and would require deacidifcation to remove. The backing boards handle more of the airborne acids than the acids in the books. An acid box is going to increase the amount of airborn acids.

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"Darn, I must be throwing caution to the wind. I only change my Mylars every 700 years! " crazy.gif

 

Well who knows... I always hope, as the years pass by, that new and improved forms of storage will be developed...

 

Just think... an adjustable shrink wrap like material that wraps around the comicbook snuggly but also hardens to form a sturdy protective cover... it would also be vacuum tight.

 

Or the new and improved collectible refrigerator... nitrogen cooled for only $99...

 

Shortly, I am going to go ahead and order some 2mil with fullbacks see how they work... so far it sounds like a good idea. smile.gif

 

I will try not to beat this horse any longer... grin.gif

 

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