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Printer creases. Yuck.

38 posts in this topic

I posted this above, but nobody probably saw it, so I started a new thread. I've seen a few bronze books that have them. As said in another thread.. defenders 1, and more. I know they won't effect a lower grade books grade, but what about the top tier? What about on a book thats absolutely notorious for numerous production defects, and not just a random occurrence. How will this effect the grade?,

Hypothetically, if it's going to be a 9.8 book, will it still get a 9.8 with this printer crease? I must say that EVERY single copy I've ever seen of this particular enigma of a book has at least one printers crease, and a lot of them have 2-3 of varying size. The one in this photo seems dark, but when looked at from some angles, you can't see it at all. Its also magnified. There's no color break. Will something like this bump a probable 9.8 to a 9.6?

Also, I'd like to see other peoples examples. Things you can't un-see.

439C8DCD-4025-4302-B41F-E37C5E6AC3A8.jpg

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Will something like this bump a hypothetical 9.8 to a 9.6?

 

No, but lots of things will "bump a hypothetical 9.8 to a 9.6". ;)

I suppose I shouldn't have left that coffee mug sit too long on the book. That'll do it every time

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I believe printing creases are allowed in grades 9.8 and lower. It's been discussed before, but I can't seem to find any threads. But my understanding is that many production defects are allowed in high grades, bindery tears being a perfect example and very commonly seen in 9.8.

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A nice, hot iron will solve most printer-creasing. Get the iron as hot as possible, then set the iron down directly over the crease. When the book is warm enough (this takes practice,) remove the iron and use its spray feature to moisten the book - you'll know it's hot enough if the water bubbles & "sizzles" when you spray the book. Then put the iron back on the book for a minute, then slowly move the iron back and forth, first perpendicular to the crease, then parallel to it. You may have to repeat this procedure more than once.

 

This information has been brought to you by PLEASE DON'T EVER DO THIS AS I AM TOTALLY JOKING!!!

 

:D

 

 

 

-slym

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Although books printer's creases are not downgraded, attempting to iron them out and exposing the white unprinted region within the crease will lead to a downgrade. Do not attempt to alter the crease, Slym2none is just being funny. He's *spoon* like me.

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So was I, and already told everyone that. I am just not sure why you felt you needed to point that out, and did it the way you did.

 

Y'know, CA... you are the walking definition of "just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should."

 

:(

 

Now, in deference to the OP, I am not gonna screw this thread up anymore.

 

 

 

-slym

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A nice, hot iron will solve most printer-creasing. Get the iron as hot as possible, then set the iron down directly over the crease. When the book is warm enough (this takes practice,) remove the iron and use its spray feature to moisten the book - you'll know it's hot enough if the water bubbles & "sizzles" when you spray the book. Then put the iron back on the book for a minute, then slowly move the iron back and forth, first perpendicular to the crease, then parallel to it. You may have to repeat this procedure more than once.

 

This information has been brought to you by PLEASE DON'T EVER DO THIS AS I AM TOTALLY JOKING!!!

 

:D

 

 

 

-slym

Awwww &$@#. My comic is ruined! I need to start reading complete paragraphs from now on.

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I believe printing creases are allowed in grades 9.8 and lower. It's been discussed before, but I can't seem to find any threads. But my understanding is that many production defects are allowed in high grades, bindery tears being a perfect example and very commonly seen in 9.8.

I'd like to see graded examples of 9.8's with printers creases. Haven't seen any yet.

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A nice, hot iron will solve most printer-creasing. Get the iron as hot as possible, then set the iron down directly over the crease. When the book is warm enough (this takes practice,) remove the iron and use its spray feature to moisten the book - you'll know it's hot enough if the water bubbles & "sizzles" when you spray the book. Then put the iron back on the book for a minute, then slowly move the iron back and forth, first perpendicular to the crease, then parallel to it. You may have to repeat this procedure more than once.

 

This information has been brought to you by PLEASE DON'T EVER DO THIS AS I AM TOTALLY JOKING!!!

 

:D

Awwww &$@#. My comic is ruined! I need to start reading complete paragraphs from now on.

 

:lol:

 

 

 

-slym

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See slym2none, there are serious threads and inane threads, I try to post inane statements in inane threads and serious statements in serious threads. If you notice I don't *spoon* on serious threads.

 

Way to threadcrap. What's inane to you might not be to someone else. Why are you being a d-bag all of a sudden?

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See slym2none, there are serious threads and inane threads, I try to post inane statements in inane threads and serious statements in serious threads. If you notice I don't *spoon* on serious threads.

 

WTF are you even talking about? Who was talking to you this time? Not me, that's for sure...

 

:shrug:

 

 

 

-slym

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