X-Men #99

[NuffSaid-migration]

- This one is the normal 25 cent variety(less valuable), but it may be in decent shape to get graded. I know the corners(UL for sure) will knock it down some. Thanks for any input.

 

 

[Dr_Neff]

8.0 IMHO I would not get that graded unless you intend to keep it forever or it is sentimental.

 

 

[zuckuss2003]

Agree with Dr on both grade (8.0) and assessment (keep raw) unless you got it really cheap (<$10-20).

[etanick]

agreed with the previous posters on all points. (thumbs u

[gaz2810i]

I would say closer to 7.5, although 8.0 could be likely (thumbs u

[The Silver-Age]

8.0 ish.....keep it raw. Never get your return back from that copy in that grade if you sub it.

[TFL-migration]

I agree 100% with all the above post's. 7.5 Possible 8.0 In hand. IMHO

[JmC]

Looks 8.0 to me, agree with not slabbing this book

[hermster]

7.5

[ARK]

8.0 Don't slab the Dr is right on.

[apollobuzz]

Welcome to the Boards! I'm going go slightly higher and give it an 8.5. Agree with the slabbing advice. Don't slab for resell, but if it's going to stay in your permanent collection and you want to slab a particular run, then go for it. When I first started slabbing, my slab goal was 8.0 or better for these early New X-Men appearances. After a while though, you will slowly creep up your minimum slab grade target. Still a very nice looking book no matter what you decide. Cheers. (thumbs u

[Dr_Neff]

Please understant ( I like it with the second "T" better ) that when you consider grading a books it would be for two reasons

 

to keep the book safer from further deterioration/damage

 

to resell it and have an impartial, hobby accepted book that has been authenticated,corroborated and professionally graded by your peers in the industry. this allows a more liquid transaction.

 

Soooooooooooooooo

 

if your sentimental the grade won't matter. I have quite a few books, whether I collected them as a child, authored them, or just thought they looked cooler in a slab alla fancy, I got them graded. Many I have encapsulated without the grades.so I can keep them forever....

 

AFTER forever, your estate will bear the brunt of your low graded run and plans to spend your posthumous loot will fail accordingly.

 

However, if you upgrade, then slab, you preserve both your sentimental yearning and future financial accolades.

 

Since you are learning the ropes, here is a quick breakdown for getting books CGC'd -

 

super key books like Action 1, Det 1-50, Suspense 3, Batman 1-3, Superman 1, All-American 16-19, etc great in 1.0 or better just to have the thing!

 

key books 2.0 or better (1933-1964)

non key books 8.0 or better (1933-1960)

 

key books 9.6 or better (1965-1975)

non key books 9.8 (1965-1975)

 

key books 9.8 or better (1976-1982)

non key books not applicable

 

Key books 9.9 or better (1983-present)

non key books not applicable

 

Add value to your lower grade key, or higher grade non key by using cgc signature series. artists that don't sign frequently or are octogenarians are the best bets.

 

 

 

[NuffSaid-migration]

- Thanks for the advice. I like your guidelines..based on the cost of CGC grading it doesn't seem to make much sense to incur this expense on an inexpensive book. Your exceptions to this make sense too. What still confuses me is how there are lower grade books and non-key books that have been through the grading process and are being sold near or even under the cost of the grading itself.?? Are people taking a loss on these ?? or, is there a way that big dealers get a deep discount on the process ? Maybe this conversation is better suited for another board..I apologize if this is rambling that should go elsewhere..but I do thank you again for the information.

[Bomber-Bob]

 

Since you are learning the ropes, here is a quick breakdown for getting books CGC'd -

 

super key books like Action 1, Det 1-50, Suspense 3, Batman 1-3, Superman 1, All-American 16-19, etc great in 1.0 or better just to have the thing!

 

key books 2.0 or better (1933-1964)

non key books 8.0 or better (1933-1960)

 

key books 9.6 or better (1965-1975)

non key books 9.8 (1965-1975)

 

key books 9.8 or better (1976-1982)

non key books not applicable

 

Key books 9.9 or better (1983-present)

non key books not applicable

 

Add value to your lower grade key, or higher grade non key by using cgc signature series. artists that don't sign frequently or are octogenarians are the best bets.

 

 

I hate to disagree with the Doctor but I think your guidelines are a bit aggressive and probably not applicable to the typical collector.

 

key books 9.6 or better (1965-1975)

- A nice 9.4 on a key is perfectly acceptable to most.

non key books 9.8 (1965-1975)

- 9.6's work for me .

 

key books 9.8 or better (1976-1982)

non key books not applicable

- I feel fine with a non key 9.8 from this era, especially personal favorites.

 

Key books 9.9 or better (1983-present)

- CGC does not prescreen on 9.9's and most cannot distinguish from a 9.8 .

non key books not applicable

- Again, I feel fine with a non key 9.8 from this era, especially personal favorites.

 

 

[Dr_Neff]

acceptable to most does not convey investment grade. My reply was not meant for the typical collector. .

I have some terribly low grade books in my personal collection like from when I was 6 years old and wrote my name in the book as well as marking it with red crayon so my friends would not confuse mine with theirs. There are many mid grade books from all eras that are desirable, and affordable. But If I were to suggest to a person starting out that investment grade were a lower grade for liquidity it would be irresponsible. and with great power comes great responsibility. . .

[apollobuzz]

- Thanks for the advice. I like your guidelines..based on the cost of CGC grading it doesn't seem to make much sense to incur this expense on an inexpensive book. Your exceptions to this make sense too. What still confuses me is how there are lower grade books and non-key books that have been through the grading process and are being sold near or even under the cost of the grading itself.?? Are people taking a loss on these ?? or, is there a way that big dealers get a deep discount on the process ? Maybe this conversation is better suited for another board..I apologize if this is rambling that should go elsewhere..but I do thank you again for the information.

Yes, people sometimes take losses on these "turds" so to speak. "Turd" often refers to a slabbed book that graded much lower than expected.

 

[GarciaM25-migration]

Nice #99 - much better than mine that I purchased already signed by Dave Cockrum and Chris Claremont.... wish I had that one signed instead of the one I have!