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best way to ship OA

Started by mrblond4,

23 posts in this topic

mrblond4

mrblond4

Posted
Posted

Hey, I am taking a trip here in a month or so and I need some extra cash so I would like to sell a Bud Root cover. Now, before I put it up for sale, Id like to know where to get a shipping box for it. the measurements are 23x20. None of the shipping boxes I have seen are close to that size.

 

Any info would be helpful.

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Bronty

Bronty

Posted
Posted

There's no magic to it. You just have to find a packaging depot or something like that. Google it. Plenty of places sell boxes big enough, you are just going to have to look a little harder.

 

When shipping big art some good choices are

 

- packing boxes for small to medium size flatscreen TVs from moving places like U-haul

- mirror mailing boxes from places like Packaging Depot

 

Look around! and good luck.

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AKA Rick

AKA Rick

Posted
Posted

The golden rule applies... treat the artwork and package it the same way you'd expect artwork you purchased (to a degree, regardless of sale price - but the the degree if it's more than $500, then with even more attention to detail) to be packaged and arrive it.

 

With USPS, Fed Ex, UPS, expect the best, but anticipate the worst.

 

Here's my tips:

 

1) Wrap the art itself in plastic. You don't want anything to happen to it if it encounters rain or water. You don't want surface dust to mark the art either. You don't want anything to happen to the surface nor paper or medium it's produced on. Try not to be ghetto and use old shopping or garbage bags. If you go to places like www.bagsunlimited.com they sell professional artwork preservation / archival bags.

 

2) Us adequate support. Try bending and folding your own packaging is the true test. Don't be afraid to overpack it. If you use corrugated cardboard, which is usually a fairly lame way to package since there's natural bends to it, you should use layers that cross, from layer 1 to layer 2 so it won't "naturally bend" by the cardboard grooves... here's an illustration:

 

Layer 1 - Front

 

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

 

Layer 2 - Front

 

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

 

ARTWORK IN THE MIDDLE

 

Layer 1 - Back

 

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

 

Layer 2 - Back

 

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

 

Ideally use what is called "Masonite" which is essentially a 1/4" piece of wood that takes a karate chop to break.

 

If you're going to use foamcore because it's light and cheaper to ship, go super super extra thick.

 

3) Go oversized. If the artwork is 11" x 17" don't package it so the artwork is on the edges of a 12" x 19" sized package, try to allow for about 2" - 3" around the artwork. This will the ensure the art does not get damaged due to corner or edge impact, and most interestingly, when you create these packages, sometimes it takes a blade or knife to open, so you don't want the recipient to accidentally cut into their own artwork you packaged and damage it.

 

4) Mark the parcel "DO NOT BEND" / "FRAGILE" / "HANDLE WITH CARE" clearly on both sides. I know some folks at the postal carrier side makes light of those markings and actually sabotage packages as if it were a game because they hate their job, but that's a minority of 'em.

 

5) Have a return label and a clear large address label. Type them out. No matter how much you think your penmanship is like John Hancock's, it's not. You can't beat TYPING AND PRINTING it out, so the destination is clearly marked. Secure the labels with clear tape so it won't get marred, altered or fall off. Take a photo of the parcel, keep your receipts and tracking information. If selling from the US to overseas you should simply insist on USPS Express Mail (it costs about $40-60 to ship) that covers tracking and insurance so gives mutual protection, and most importantly seller protection against fraud, where 1st Class Airmail gives you no proof of delivery overseas and there's some criminals out there who take advantage of that fact. For international, be aware of the "maximum dimensions" and weight which impacts the cost tremendously.

 

6) Be sure to have some sort of tracking, and if possible insurance. It's either your cost of doing business or build into their cost of acquisition.

 

7) Use quality materials, including good tape, not masking tape, scotch tape, and being cheap on making sure it's sturdy and will survive the worst rigors of a journey across the country or world.

 

8) Don't be afraid to pass along the costs to the consumer and explain the process. A smart collector won't mind paying for the right freight costs. Anyone who wants to have their merchandise delivered on the cheap is probably not worth dealing with and you're setting yourself up for potential future trouble. I've received artwork rolled up in a poster tube. I've received artwork in a thin manila envelope. I've received artwork in bubble wrap (that's pretty idiotic since it's not the type of fragile that requires only bubble wrap, it's okay to use bubble wrap over the package but not in lieu of adequate support. I've received artwork that's arrive bent and creased with folds. I've received artwork with damages. It's pretty disheartening knowing all of that could have been avoided with proper care.

 

Some also use boxes and have the artwork with support and then float that inside of a larger box, which is another method.

 

You can get some supplies for free from the USPS if you use their Priority Mail. You can go to places like Costco for larger cardboard. There are shipping supply stores. Some places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. sell masonite boards and can cut them for you. Some art stores sell foamcore boards

 

It does take time, patience in effort... but if you're going to take the time to sell something and someone takes the time to pay you, you should take the time to ensure it's delivered in the best possible condition so you don't have any incidents. If you can't afford to put forth the effort, you really shouldn't be selling the artwork by mail.

 

That's my advice...

 

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blowout

blowout

Posted
Posted
Masonite can be cut with a utility knife and a metal straight edge. I always like receiving art with Masonite!

 

I have received several pieces of artwork in masonite as well. Extremely well packed.

 

One thing to note with Masonite, is that although it won't bend, it can on occasion break. If that happens, it will tear the art in half. Extremely bad news!!

 

Personally, I prefer to use 4-6 layers of foam core. Unlikely to bend, won't break and even if something punctures it, will be thick enough to pretect the art.

 

So although Masonite is great, it can be the absolute worst thing to ship art in if something falls on it at an angle and snaps it.

 

Just a warning for all those Masonite lovers!

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robert frey

robert frey

Posted
Posted

I usually buy 1/2" inch thick foam core from michaels and cut it in half and fold it over like a book cover. this will handle modern size art and leave a comfortable cushion around the edges of the board.................this is still extremely light and now at 1" thickness, you have to seriously go out of your way to break this (if you can), it is really very, very strong. i put the art in some sort of bag in between this and wrap that in newspaper and tape it to the foamcore and bingo, a very light but strong package.

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Doohickamabob

Doohickamabob

Posted
Posted
The golden rule applies... treat the artwork and package it the same way you'd expect artwork you purchased (to a degree, regardless of sale price - but the the degree if it's more than $500, then with even more attention to detail) to be packaged and arrive it.

 

With USPS, Fed Ex, UPS, expect the best, but anticipate the worst.

 

Here's my tips:

 

1) Wrap the art itself in plastic. You don't want anything to happen to it if it encounters rain or water. You don't want surface dust to mark the art either. You don't want anything to happen to the surface nor paper or medium it's produced on. Try not to be ghetto and use old shopping or garbage bags. If you go to places like www.bagsunlimited.com they sell professional artwork preservation / archival bags.

 

2) Us adequate support. Try bending and folding your own packaging is the true test. Don't be afraid to overpack it. If you use corrugated cardboard, which is usually a fairly lame way to package since there's natural bends to it, you should use layers that cross, from layer 1 to layer 2 so it won't "naturally bend" by the cardboard grooves... here's an illustration:

 

Layer 1 - Front

 

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

 

Layer 2 - Front

 

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

 

ARTWORK IN THE MIDDLE

 

Layer 1 - Back

 

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

==================

 

Layer 2 - Back

 

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

 

Ideally use what is called "Masonite" which is essentially a 1/4" piece of wood that takes a karate chop to break.

 

If you're going to use foamcore because it's light and cheaper to ship, go super super extra thick.

 

3) Go oversized. If the artwork is 11" x 17" don't package it so the artwork is on the edges of a 12" x 19" sized package, try to allow for about 2" - 3" around the artwork. This will the ensure the art does not get damaged due to corner or edge impact, and most interestingly, when you create these packages, sometimes it takes a blade or knife to open, so you don't want the recipient to accidentally cut into their own artwork you packaged and damage it.

 

4) Mark the parcel "DO NOT BEND" / "FRAGILE" / "HANDLE WITH CARE" clearly on both sides. I know some folks at the postal carrier side makes light of those markings and actually sabotage packages as if it were a game because they hate their job, but that's a minority of 'em.

 

5) Have a return label and a clear large address label. Type them out. No matter how much you think your penmanship is like John Hancock's, it's not. You can't beat TYPING AND PRINTING it out, so the destination is clearly marked. Secure the labels with clear tape so it won't get marred, altered or fall off. Take a photo of the parcel, keep your receipts and tracking information. If selling from the US to overseas you should simply insist on USPS Express Mail (it costs about $40-60 to ship) that covers tracking and insurance so gives mutual protection, and most importantly seller protection against fraud, where 1st Class Airmail gives you no proof of delivery overseas and there's some criminals out there who take advantage of that fact. For international, be aware of the "maximum dimensions" and weight which impacts the cost tremendously.

 

6) Be sure to have some sort of tracking, and if possible insurance. It's either your cost of doing business or build into their cost of acquisition.

 

7) Use quality materials, including good tape, not masking tape, scotch tape, and being cheap on making sure it's sturdy and will survive the worst rigors of a journey across the country or world.

 

8) Don't be afraid to pass along the costs to the consumer and explain the process. A smart collector won't mind paying for the right freight costs. Anyone who wants to have their merchandise delivered on the cheap is probably not worth dealing with and you're setting yourself up for potential future trouble. I've received artwork rolled up in a poster tube. I've received artwork in a thin manila envelope. I've received artwork in bubble wrap (that's pretty idiotic since it's not the type of fragile that requires only bubble wrap, it's okay to use bubble wrap over the package but not in lieu of adequate support. I've received artwork that's arrive bent and creased with folds. I've received artwork with damages. It's pretty disheartening knowing all of that could have been avoided with proper care.

 

Some also use boxes and have the artwork with support and then float that inside of a larger box, which is another method.

 

You can get some supplies for free from the USPS if you use their Priority Mail. You can go to places like Costco for larger cardboard. There are shipping supply stores. Some places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. sell masonite boards and can cut them for you. Some art stores sell foamcore boards

 

It does take time, patience in effort... but if you're going to take the time to sell something and someone takes the time to pay you, you should take the time to ensure it's delivered in the best possible condition so you don't have any incidents. If you can't afford to put forth the effort, you really shouldn't be selling the artwork by mail.

 

That's my advice...

 

Great post!

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youmechooz

youmechooz

Posted
Posted

does anyone have pictures of shipping OA? i want to start buying cover art to frame on my walls but know nothing about how it should get to me. i mean, i have bought books from long time boardies that ship in envelopes and i cant stand it. i feel a box is best for books but i dont know if i should be getting mad at someone sending OA in a shipping tube or not since i dont know if thats standard or not. thanks for any info.

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Bronty

Bronty

Posted
Posted

I'd be pizzed if anybody sent me art in a tube, I'll tell you that! They'd better be sending in a dang strong cardboard box with cardboard reinforcements inside probably wrapped in bubble and then filled with loosefill. No effing around! And you should be prepared to pay more for them to ship it as a result, IMO

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comix4fun

comix4fun

Posted
Posted
I'd be pizzed if anybody sent me art in a tube, I'll tell you that! They'd better be sending in a dang strong cardboard box with cardboard reinforcements inside probably wrapped in bubble and then filled with loosefill. No effing around! And you should be prepared to pay more for them to ship it as a result, IMO

 

 

 

A very famous, very talented, legendary artist, who is now deceased sent me a silver age splash page, that I bought from him, bent over and in a small priority mail box with no protection. lol

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comix4fun

comix4fun

Posted
Posted

5) Have a return label and a clear large address label. Type them out. No matter how much you think your penmanship is like John Hancock's, it's not. You can't beat TYPING AND PRINTING it out, so the destination is clearly marked. Secure the labels with clear tape so it won't get marred, altered or fall off. Take a photo of the parcel, keep your receipts and tracking information. If selling from the US to overseas you should simply insist on USPS Express Mail (it costs about $40-60 to ship) that covers tracking and insurance so gives mutual protection, and most importantly seller protection against fraud, where 1st Class Airmail gives you no proof of delivery overseas and there's some criminals out there who take advantage of that fact. For international, be aware of the "maximum dimensions" and weight which impacts the cost tremendously.

 

 

That's my advice...

 

 

 

Very well thought out....one thing to add to the section above is to take a sharpie and write those addresses directly onto the package itself in case that typed label is somehow removed or lost from the package. Even the best labels and tape can be removed...I always have a backup address on the package itself so that if something happens it will make it back to me or still have a chance to get to its destination.

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Garf

Garf

Posted
Posted

Prefer foam core to masonite. Have had a masonite flake press itself into an inked area of OA. Must have come loose from where the board was cut, yes the art was packaged in plastic so it happened during the whole process or where a lot of art was being packed. I was impressed with how strong the foam core was when I received some for the first time.

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Bronty

Bronty

Posted
Posted
I'd be pizzed if anybody sent me art in a tube, I'll tell you that! They'd better be sending in a dang strong cardboard box with cardboard reinforcements inside probably wrapped in bubble and then filled with loosefill. No effing around! And you should be prepared to pay more for them to ship it as a result, IMO

 

A very famous, very talented, legendary artist, who is now deceased sent me a silver age splash page, that I bought from him, bent over and in a small priority mail box with no protection. lol

 

Sometimes artists have the least care & respect for their own work out of anybody. I don't quite understand it.

 

I had a friend who bought from an artist that fits your criteria (although prob not the same guy since you mention silver age). The last name rhymed with Frazetta lol It was a strip that rhymed with Johnny Comet. ;) Well frank folds the effing thing in half to mail it :facepalm:

 

As for my own experiences I had a guy sent me twenty paintings in nothing more than a cardboard sheath and I'm still trying to figure out how they were undamaged.

 

Next shipment, another twenty, "hey couldja protect em a little better please?" Same sheath.

 

Next shipment, another twenty, "hey couldja protect em a little better please? I am really uncomfortable?". Well an even flimsier sheath this time, and these pieces unlike the ones before which were all the same size, were all different sizes from 30 by 30 to 6 by 6 all on illo board, all just jammed into one pouch. Predictably all the small ones settle to one side so you end up with a tear drop - one side has the strength of twenty pieces and the other side the flimsiness of three pieces.

 

So, to nobody's shock except his, the weak side of the pouch got a big rip in it in during shipping, gee, let's see, probably due to the fact that mailing a flimsy package 36" wide that has no protection on one side isn't a good idea :news: and - shocking I know - three big pieces ended up with six inch tears. I can't even look at those pieces :censored:

 

Oh, and this is after four years of negotiations. You make me jump through more hoops than a dog at an effing circus for four years, take a bunch of money from me that was hard to come up with, and then you mail them like a insufficiently_thoughtful_person to what, save 20 bucks on shipping? :censored: :censored: :censored:

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