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Starting a CGC collection?

27 posts in this topic

Just my 2c

 

 

- if you are a collector, Mylites2/Fullback or prettier and easier to store over a case

 

+1 (thumbs u

 

Since it sounds as though the original poster is primarily collecting the books for their covers and also for display purposes, mylar would definitely be so much better from a presentation point of view as opposed to the dull, bulky, and industrial looking slabs. hm

 

 

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My rules have been -

 

9.8 for Modern and Copper.

 

9.4-9.6 for Bronze. The difference in prices between a 9.8 and a 9.6 Bronze Key just isn't worth it to me.

 

I will buy any grade in Silver if it presents well.

 

Yeah the 9.6 to 9.8 difference in Bronze age can be insane. I just picked up a 9.6 bronze key for just over $200, the 9.8 goes for around $600. I still would argue that true keys even in copper and modern are OK above 9.4.

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Just my 2c

 

 

- if you are a collector, Mylites2/Fullback or prettier and easier to store over a case

 

+1 (thumbs u

 

Since it sounds as though the original poster is primarily collecting the books for their covers and also for display purposes, mylar would definitely be so much better from a presentation point of view as opposed to the dull, bulky, and industrial looking slabs. hm

 

 

Yes, I need to reorder some mylars. I have two boxes that I want to convert but have been neglecting to do so. I think that is probably the best way to go.

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If you're just getting back in, I would suggest to lay off the slabbed books first. Learn to grade raw books visually then jump on to the graded books. Also as others have said, it really depends on what your intentions are. If you want to sell the books in the future you should get graded books. Otherwise buy them raw and save some money.

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My rules have been -

 

9.8 for Modern and Copper.

 

9.4-9.6 for Bronze. The difference in prices between a 9.8 and a 9.6 Bronze Key just isn't worth it to me.

 

I will buy any grade in Silver if it presents well.

 

I generally agree with this rule - with the exception of HUGE keys that most cannot afford or aren't willing to pay for...

 

Some highly sought after copper/modern books (i.e. BA 12, NM 98) are worth so much you can do ok with a 9.4

 

9.4-9.6 in bronze is great, unless the keys are huge and unaffordable (i.e ASM 129 or hulk 181)

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Personally, I only buy slabbed books on expensive purchases (restoration detection), but usually crack them out.

 

The only exception to that is if I only really want it for the cover. Then the slab is a nice display piece.

 

If you are doing modern books, I don't recommend it for profit. The scarcity really isn't there to hold value. Having been through one comics crash before I feel the market is way over-inflated, and you could loose the money you paid for the books, unless you hold onto them for years or decades.

 

For example are finally starting to see a climb again on the Death of Superman books and that's because Doomsday is in the new movie, but they'll go back down in about six months. In a year or two, you might even find them in the dollar bins again. Back in the 90s, there were people who thought they could retire on those books.

 

As I was told by a dealer years ago, "old comics are an investment, new comics are for reading."

LOSE money. LOSE.

Loose is like 'my pants are loose'.

 

Sorry but I see more and more people using loose for lose. It's driving me crazy.

 

Beware of buying alleged high grade raw books for slabbing where the grading turns out to be loose, because you will lose money :shy:

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