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The craziest bid history

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Looks similar to my bid strategy...knock the amount up a notch at a time just to get a feel for where the top bid is at....that way you don't put a larger bid amount that someone else will top which increases the amount you will have to bid in order to regain top bidder status....the guy is just being cautious....

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I wonder how much Jomitre bid...

 

I've used this strategy many times in the past; just trying to be caustions...but usually, I rely on setting a max price I'm willing to pay and just bid that. It's annoying, though, when someone comes along and keeps upping your bid and an item you could have had for $68 winds up costing you $110.

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Auction end: Apr-24-03 - Star Wars 1 CGC 9.6 WHITE PAGES NM+ NR

$73.99 won by bonniesangus

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2171486585

 

serial number from scan: 0036506016 (i think)

 

Auction end: Apr-28-03 07 - Star Wars 1 CGC 9.6 WHITE PAGES NM+ NR

$110.00 won by jomitre

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2171995790

 

(enlarged scan not provided)

 

this person needs to be reported.

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Looks similar to my bid strategy...knock the amount up a notch at a time just to get a feel for where the top bid is at....that way you don't put a larger bid amount that someone else will top which increases the amount you will have to bid in order to regain top bidder status....the guy is just being cautious....

 

I don't understand that strategy. So it's obvious that Bonnie was willing to pay $107. Why not bid that amount first and be done with it? Sure, you may be high bidder at $60, and others can up your bid. But so what? If you're willing to pay $107 anyway, what does it matter if you have the high bid at $60, and no more? In that case, someone can snipe you at $80, and you'll be mad because you knew it was worth $107 to you. I just don't think it saves you anything.

 

My strategy is just to watch the item on My eBay page. That way, no one is suspecting that I want it. And usually, most people think like you do, and the high bid is their max. So it's easy for me to swoop in during the last 10 seconds and outbid them without giving them a chance to retaliate. All because they didn't use a proxy bid.

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I don't understand that strategy. So it's obvious that Bonnie was willing to pay $107.

 

that's just it - bonnie was a shill account. the seller just kept bidding the minimum bid amount to make the high bidder pay up to their max (or up to $110 anyways)

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that's just it - bonnie was a shill account. the seller just kept bidding the minimum bid amount to make the high bidder pay up to their max (or up to $110 anyways)

 

Isn't that type of shilling risky. I imagine it's easy to overbid on your own auction and end up winning it inadvertently. Then you end up paying a ending auction fee as punishment.

 

I also think increment bidding is foolish. You have to constantly monitor an auction and when you bid in increments people tend to respond in increments thus driving the price through the roof for everyone. If you're not going to snipe it's better to place ONE bid for the price you're willing to pay and maybe one secondary bid if you really want that item.

 

I believe sniping is perfectly legit anyways, people who don't believe in it obviously don't understand efficiency in bidding. If someone "loses" to sniping obviously they weren't willing to pay as much as a sniper to begin with. Therefore don't increment bid.

 

 

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