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marvelmaniac

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Everything posted by marvelmaniac

  1. I inventoried, graded and cataloged my collection of 2000+ books back in 2015, it took me 6 month's. I am by no means a "professional" grader (but who is unless you are employed by CGC) but I am able to use my eyes and printed info to recognize accumulated defects on a comic book and come up with an accurate "overall" grade. IMO you should take a couple of the books you are thinking about submitting and attempt to grade them yourself noting all of the defects, then post pics on the site and see how close you are in grade to what the community thinks. The biggest issue is to be honest with yourself when you are grading your own books, you cannot look at your books though "rose colored glasses". https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions
  2. IMO the book looks like a FN 6.0 without the corner piece missing,how much of a hit will it take,VG/FN 5/0? Looking at completed eBay auctions, books in your grade have sold for $130.00 - $170.00 Raw, a CGC FN 6.0 sold for $242.00 and a CGC FN/VF 7.0 sold for $280.00. So...Should you have it graded or just place it in a Mylite with Board?, All depends on what your plans are for the book.
  3. I bought the "Charles Atlas" course when I was about 14 and my Sister bought "Sea Monkeys" and the "Polaris Nuclear Sub" which she says she was extremely disappointed with when it arrived 8 weeks later and it was cardboard. Sorry, no longer have any of them.
  4. Welcome To The Boards. Two things... You should have posted this in the "Hey Buddy Can You Spare A Grade" section. You will need to remove the book from the bag to get accurate/clear pictures if you expect an accurate grade. Also,is the Marvel Value Stamp still intact? http://www.mvstamps.com/issues.htm
  5. If you send those books to CGC for grading the books will be removed from the polybag by CGC for grading and the bag will be disposed of. From what I have read on the site you are better off removing the books from the bag yourself before submitting for grading. Being in the polybag does not mean the book is a MT 10.0, the book can be damaged in the bag just as easily as out of the bag. On the other hand if you are looking to keep the books as they are then just place the book/bag into a Mylite with Board and store it away with the rest of your collection. Does the book being in the original bag make it worth more $?, probably only to someone who collects original polybagged comics. Either way, in the original polybag or CGC graded you can never read it.
  6. All depends on what your main reason is for collecting... To collect/complete runs, read and love your books or... Profit.
  7. Congrats is right!!! It seems we/me were too harsh. When I gave an "estimated" value is was a guess based on my VG/FN 5.0 grade and eBay sold auction sales for a GD/VG 3.0, never expected a FN/VF 7.0.
  8. First let me say, Nice "Well Loved" Book!!! IMO this book is a FR/GD 1.5. Brought back memories for me when you mentioned low grade/$200.00, I found one about 15 years ago in worse shape (I graded it as a FR 1.0) for $50.00 so with inflation it is about the same price, I thought I was the only one that would give a book like that a home. Over the last two years DD #1 in FR. 1.0 has been selling for $275.00 - $325.00 in eBay auctions. 1.5 FAIR/GOOD (FR/GD): Back to TopShows substantial to heavy wear. Books in this grade are commonly creased, scuffed, abraded, soiled, and possibly unattractive, but still generally readable. Cover shows considerable wear and may be detached. Almost no cover reflectivity remaining. Book-length creases, tears and folds may be present. Rounded corners are increasingly common. Soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing is generally present. Up to 1/10 of the back cover may be missing. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are increasingly common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is common. May have a spine split between 2" and 2/3 the length of the book. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Staple tears and stress lines are common, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown and may show brittleness around the edges. Acidic odor may be present. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Interior tears are common.
  9. For me the "Core" titles are the "early/first" Marvel "Super Hero" titles (1964 and earlier), those are the books I collected as a kid from 64-69 and what I started re-collecting in 79 when I got back into this hobby, everything after that as far as I am concerned is a "Johnny Come Lately" and I have no real interest in those. (I did however follow/collect the ROM storyline when I got back into the hobby) The Core titles for me were and still are... Amazing Spider-Man, Avengers, Daredevil, Fantastic Four, Journey Into Mystery (and Thor), Incredible Hulk (1-6), Strange Tales (up to 134), Tales Of Suspense, Tales To Astonish, X-Men. (I never really had an interest in Sgt.Fury) When TOS/TTA ended in 68 and Cap, Iron Man, Hulk, Sub-Mariner got their own titles I only collected Iron Man and Hulk and that was short lived, when I got back into collecting in 79 Incredible Hulk was the only one of the four I was interested in, probably because Hulk was an "original" title and Hulk crossed over into my other favorite books such as Avengers and F.F.
  10. The book would be graded as if the tape was not present. IMO going by the current grading standards the book would remain where it is, GD - 1.8 worse case scenario. That is the "latest" view on tape by CGC and tape is very common on books up to and including GD/VG 3.0. 2.0 GOOD (GD): Back to TopShows substantial wear; often considered a "reading copy." Cover shows significant wear and may even be detached. Cover reflectivity is low and in some cases completely absent. Book-length creases and dimples may be present. Rounded corners are more common. Moderate soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing may be present. The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is likely. May have up to a 2" spine split. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Moderate interior tears may be present. 3.0 GOOD/VERY GOOD (GD/VG): Back to TopA used comic book showing some substantial wear. Cover shows significant wear, and may be loose or even detached at one staple. Cover reflectivity is very low. Can have a book-length crease and/or dimples. Corners may be blunted or even rounded. Discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor to moderate soiling is allowed. A triangle from 1/4" to 1/2" can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" to 1/4" square is also acceptable. Tape and other amateur repair may be present. Moderate spine roll likely. May have a spine split of anywhere from 1" to 1-1/2". Staples may be rusted or replaced. Minor to moderate staple tears and moderate stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple. Minor to moderate interior tears may be present.
  11. Judging by the artwork they appear to be fairly new and it appears you have cards from different sets. What is on the back? https://www.cardboardconnection.com/2013-marvelfleer-retro-trading-cards
  12. My eyes are not that good and I am not sure if I am seeing color breaking stress lines or not so I cannot give a definitive grade, it could be anywhere from VF 8.0 - NM- 9.2.
  13. That would depend on the overall grade of the book and weather it is going to receive a "Green" or "Blue" label. If the book is already a "Well Loved" reader (FR 1.0 - VG 4.0) it probably will not have any affect on the grade. Just so you are aware I probably wrote/drew in my comics as a wee tyke, is this one of mine? I also own books with writing on the cover or interior pages, to me it is part of the history of the book and when you are collecting on a budget it makes it easier to get older books.
  14. I cannot tell you what CGC would do but tape on the cover is allowed up to a VG- 3.5 so it would depend on the overall grade of the book, also CGC has changed its stance on tape so how will that affect it? https://www.cgccomics.com/news/article/3327/CGC-Modifies-Stance-on-Grading-Submissions-with-Tape/
  15. I received this book for Christmas back in 83/84 and to my surprise it had a "Jack Kirby" signature on the bottom of the splash page. There is no way to actually prove it is legit but considering the time period it was purchased leads me to believe it is authentic and I have no problem with it being there. If it is sent to CGC they will grade the book as having writing on the splash page, in order to have a signature authenticated by CGC they or a rep has to be there to witness the signing. Jack Kirby passed before CGC ever came into existence so that is not possible.
  16. I would like to see the damage/books in question. It does not make sense that only the interior pages would be affected by this when the entire front cover (assuming an acid free backing board was used) was also exposed to the acids from a decaying poly bag. If these books are valuable to you in any way I would certainly recommend switching to "Mylites" with "Acid Free" Backing Boards. Some of my books have been stored in the same Mylite for 30+ years with no appreciable signs of decay/damage. On top of this Proper Storage Conditions are Crucial to Prevent further Damage and "Slow" the decaying process. Books should be Stored in Comic Storage Boxes, Away from All Light and Heat Sources, In a Controlled Environment (Preferably about 70 degrees/50% Humidity), Not in an Unfinished Non-Climate Controlled Garage or Basement and away from Moisture/Water.
  17. I have been using CIS for 10 years and they are very easy to work with.(I have never had to file a claim) You tell them what you are looking to insure and for how much and they ask a few questions such as where and how the books are being stored, type/age of building, etc. and they give you a quote. You can change your coverage amount anytime with just an e-mail or phone call. It is recommended you send them a list of what is being insured and update the list monthly/annually depending on how much and how often you add to the collection. I have detailed lists of all of my books with grades and pictures of all 1800 books. The lists and pics are also stored on my computer and two separate flashdrives so should something happen there is some proof of ownership. You do not have to be as OCD as I am, but you get the idea.
  18. OMG!!! A very "Well Loved" copy that should be cherished and you should be proud to own since it seems to be EXTREMELY hard to find. That is the first time I have ever seen the cover of #12 and now I know it actually exists... The hunt is back on. Maybe I should hire Indiana Jones to find it for me.
  19. I will "rock the boat" and give my opinion of grade for both books. First let me say both are "WELL LOVED" copies and I would be proud to have either one in my collection. Now on to the grading... F.F. #3 2.0 GOOD (GD): Back to TopShows substantial wear; often considered a "reading copy." Cover shows significant wear and may even be detached. Cover reflectivity is low and in some cases completely absent. Book-length creases and dimples may be present. Rounded corners are more common. Moderate soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing may be present. The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is likely. May have up to a 2" spine split. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Moderate interior tears may be present. F.F. #1 1.5 FAIR/GOOD (FR/GD): Back to TopShows substantial to heavy wear. Books in this grade are commonly creased, scuffed, abraded, soiled, and possibly unattractive, but still generally readable. Cover shows considerable wear and may be detached. Almost no cover reflectivity remaining. Book-length creases, tears and folds may be present. Rounded corners are increasingly common. Soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing is generally present. Up to 1/10 of the back cover may be missing. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are increasingly common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is common. May have a spine split between 2" and 2/3 the length of the book. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Staple tears and stress lines are common, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown and may show brittleness around the edges. Acidic odor may be present. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Interior tears are common.
  20. Minor stress lines, slightly blunted corners, color breaking crease at bottom right... 7.0 FINE/VERY FINE (FN/VF): Back to Top An above-average copy that shows minor wear but is still relatively flat and clean with outstanding eye appeal. A small accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Minor cover wear beginning to show, possibly including minor creases. Corners may be blunted. Inks are generally bright with a moderate reduction in reflectivity. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. The slightest spine roll may be present, as well as a possible moderate color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Slight staple tears and a small accumulation of light stress lines may be present. Slight rust migration. Paper is cream to tan. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present.
  21. Due to visible stress lines I am going with... 8.5 VERY FINE+ (VF+): Back to Top Fits the criteria for Very Fine but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount. 8.0 VERY FINE (VF): Back to Top An excellent copy with outstanding eye appeal. A limited accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Cover is relatively flat with minimal surface wear beginning to show, possibly including some minute wear at corners. Inks are generally bright with moderate to high reflectivity. An unnoticeable 1/4" crease is acceptable if color is not broken. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. Spine is almost completely flat with a possible minor color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Very slight staple tears and a few almost insignificant stress lines may be present. Paper is cream to tan and supple. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present.
  22. 2.0 GOOD (GD): "The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher." Until it comes back from CGC it is all speculation.