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Accurate and confident grading...

Started by Old_Skool,

57 posts in this topic

(un)cooldude

(un)cooldude

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

 

I'm currently on a quest to pick up an Overstreet Grading Guide. Can you confirm for me that the 2003 second printing is the most current version? I've found one for $10, and wonder if that's a decent price for one.

 

Thanks!

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FFB

FFB

Posted
Posted
The most recent edition it is...but maybe not the last...

 

Ooh, I'm sneaky! smile.gif

 

Arnold

 

Hey Arnold,

 

Any ballpark on when there might be a revision? Any sneak preview of what kind of things will be in store for us? 893crossfingers-thumb.gif

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(un)cooldude

(un)cooldude

Posted
Posted

Well, I went ahead and bought that copy of The Overstreet Grading Guide that I found for $10. It was the 2nd printing of the 2003 edition, and from the sounds of it, will be the most current one for a while. 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

 

So, once I receive it, I'll be able to get my hands-on experience with grading on the rise!

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(un)cooldude

(un)cooldude

Posted
Posted

I've had my copy of the Overstreet Grading Guide for a couple of days now, and I can't believe I didn't order this earlier! foreheadslap.gif

 

I'm enjoying the number of essays and information in the book, and it really does help me to attempt to differentiate the different levels of 'near mint'. I guess the one thing I was kind of hoping for, was a 'page whiteness' guide of some type. There's a brief mention of it in the book, as it was included with an earlier edition(s)?

 

I'm looking forward to spending a bit of time with the guide this weekend, and going over some of the comics in my collection to see how I can do with it.

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arexcrooke

arexcrooke

Posted
Posted

Ender, the first edition did have a small card with the origional 100 point scale broken down on it. On the flip side it had a page whiteness level called the O.W.L. (overstreet whiteness level). Pretty cool card, i think i still ahve mine somewhere. If you look around, you might be able to find one.

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divad

divad

Posted
Posted
Do either of you guys own the Overstreet Grading Guide? If not, buy a copy and read it cover to cover. 893scratchchin-thumb.gif Then, read it again. makepoint.gif

 

Here's a link to Amazon:

 

Overstreet Grading Guide

 

Dude, if you even bothered to read my post, I clearly stated that I had not yet picked up an Overstreet Guide. My posting made no reference as to whether or not I should buy a guide and study it like a good little Bingo, it was mearly a hello, and a couple of questions regarding conduct on the board.

 

Sheesh. tonofbricks.gif

 

Ender,

 

As you can probably see now, I was just trying to be helpful to you from the start hi.gif

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ArnoldTBlumberg

ArnoldTBlumberg

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We even refer to OWL numbers in the second edition even though we no longer include the card, which is woefully out of date anyway. But we figured there are plenty who still have one or liked the scale and might want a point of reference between the old book and the new. As for a new whiteness scale, despite its weaknesses we decided to rely purely on the language of the descriptions this time, as we found it would be almost impossible to guarantee a consistent and accurate reproduction of subtle changes in color to represent the tiny shifts in whiteness if we printed a new scale in the book.

 

And although a new Grading Guide will be along one day in the not too distant future, I doubt we'll include a visual whiteness scale there either...but never say never.

 

Arnold

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FFB

FFB

Posted
Posted
We even refer to OWL numbers in the second edition even though we no longer include the card, which is woefully out of date anyway. But we figured there are plenty who still have one or liked the scale and might want a point of reference between the old book and the new. As for a new whiteness scale, despite its weaknesses we decided to rely purely on the language of the descriptions this time, as we found it would be almost impossible to guarantee a consistent and accurate reproduction of subtle changes in color to represent the tiny shifts in whiteness if we printed a new scale in the book.

 

And although a new Grading Guide will be along one day in the not too distant future, I doubt we'll include a visual whiteness scale there either...but never say never.

 

Arnold

 

Arnold,

 

Not sure why you would refrain from adding a page color reference to the guide, but I think leaving it out is a bad idea. Granted, it might be tough to get the subtle page differences represented, but perhaps you could just crack some CGC books that are already labeled for you and take representative pictures of the page quality in those books? What's so hard about that? Surely this is better than just leaving people to guess, which is where we are now.

 

The current guide is an excellent reference for what it is, but it could be a lot better. Adding more on page quality would be a huge improvement, especially given how important page quality is to the "health" of the book.

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DiceX

DiceX

Posted
Posted

I think Arnold is talking about the inconsistencies of the OWL card itself.

It is impossible to reproduce x hundred thousand copies of the card and keep the colors printed with enough consistency for it to be used very reliably.

 

Meaning...The swatch color shades on *my* OWL card would be quite different than the swatch color shades on *your* OWL card. Thus making them inconsistent.

 

Arnold...It would cost more to print, but you could achieve a much more reliable card if you had the swatches printed with Pantone colors. The swatches would be much closer, and if the QC was watched closely, it would be a tool that would be a great reference for collectors.

However, collectors would have to keep them in a dark place when they were not used. But that is no different than the original card.

I would definately buy one.

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FFB

FFB

Posted
Posted
I think Arnold is talking about the inconsistencies of the OWL card itself.

It is impossible to reproduce x hundred thousand copies of the card and keep the colors printed with enough consistency for it to be used very reliably.

 

Meaning...The swatch color shades on *my* OWL card would be quite different than the swatch color shades on *your* OWL card. Thus making them inconsistent.

 

Arnold...It would cost more to print, but you could achieve a much more reliable card if you had the swatches printed with Pantone colors. The swatches would be much closer, and if the QC was watched closely, it would be a tool that would be a great reference for collectors.

However, collectors would have to keep them in a dark place when they were not used. But that is no different than the original card.

I would definately buy one.

 

Couldn't you just have the cards coated with a UV inhibitor to prevent fading?

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DiceX

DiceX

Posted
Posted
I think Arnold is talking about the inconsistencies of the OWL card itself.

It is impossible to reproduce x hundred thousand copies of the card and keep the colors printed with enough consistency for it to be used very reliably.

 

Meaning...The swatch color shades on *my* OWL card would be quite different than the swatch color shades on *your* OWL card. Thus making them inconsistent.

 

Arnold...It would cost more to print, but you could achieve a much more reliable card if you had the swatches printed with Pantone colors. The swatches would be much closer, and if the QC was watched closely, it would be a tool that would be a great reference for collectors.

However, collectors would have to keep them in a dark place when they were not used. But that is no different than the original card.

I would definately buy one.

 

Couldn't you just have the cards coated with a UV inhibitor to prevent fading?

 

The fading is probably less of a problem than inconsistent printing.

When they come from the factory with color variance, they are doomed from the start.

Keeping color balance on the swatch hues is much harder than you think.

If you are using them as a tool of measure, they will only fool you.

Think of it as if they are rulers, where an inch on one is equal to an inch and a half on another.

 

The only way to keep them close is to use Pantone colors, where the ink itself is the correct hue. As opposed to using CMYK screen values and trying to print them with consistent balance throughout the press run.

They could still vary, but solid ink densities are much easier to control than screen balance.

I'm not saying that Pantone colors wouldn't vary, but they would vary less than printing them in CMYK, and could be controlled easier.

Even still...There may be enough variance with Pantone to keep them from being an efficient tool.

 

The only way it would be perfect is if there were only a single card, and everything were measured to it. 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

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