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Do dealers budge on price?

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Can you negotiate with dealers on price or is that like beating a dead horse? What's the standard protocol?

 

Well it depends on the book, the dealer, and the venue...

 

Of course, most people won't tell you this, but it can also depend on the shirt you wear.. confused-smiley-013.gif

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Okay here's a more serious answer to your question:

 

I believe that almost all dealers will negotiate on almost any book. Almost everything in life is negotiable, but it's particularly prominent at comic shows.

 

 

1) How much are you spending?

 

If you buy $20 worth of books, i wouldn't expect a 50% discount. Maybe they'll knock off a buck. If you buy $100 or more in books, I think it's reasonable to ask for some sort of discount. Guys who advertise "50% Off" I generally stay away from because the prices are inflated. Not to say you can't get good deals there sometimes, but I'm leary... you have to really look their stock over. Generally, you can get 20-25% on books 9.0 and below if you are not being an a--hole and are buying a decent amount or might actually be a repeat customer. But it depends.

 

2) What are you buying?

 

If you are buying a rare piece, or 9.4 highgrade books, you might get a small discount off sticker, but don't expect too much. Everyone would love to buy 9.4 ASMs for 50% of guide, but that's not going to happen. If you are buying mid grades, well, my general rule is that most mid grades and below can be had for 50% or less unless a key book. Even some keys (like Avengers 4) can be had for a discount in mid grade.

 

3) Who are you dealing with?

 

I love Vincent Zurzolo and the boys at Metro, but if I'm being honest, here's the facts: they discount very, very tightly. Getting them to discount a book, forget it. In most instances, Metro just doesn't discount. You can give them all the reasons in the world why they should and they won't do it. However, they have a great stock of books, and often times, if you REALLY want a book, you'll pay. Additionally, sometimes their prices in the 9.2 and below range are at or below market rate, but others they're way high. Just gotta look.

 

With Bob Storms, he generally discounts around 15% on raw. On slabbed, hit or miss. I'm sure if you spend $1k, he'll cut you a nice deal. But as Al Stoltz has told me, there's no sense in a dealer just giving high grade away when they know somebody's going to hit their price. People b**ch here on the boards and then guess what? somebody invariably hits their price... so what do these dealers know that I (the buyer) don't when I'm citing the GPA analysis and latest ebay sales? That they know it will sell eventually. Of course, that doesn't mean you should pay the dealer price either. If you're willing to be patient, you can wait for the book. Many times the prices are very fair with Bob. Some think he's high, I think he's on the higher side, but not outrageous. On raw, I think he's very competitive.

 

You can also go with Ted, where you'll definitely get a nice deal. You've got work out the money to be commensurate with what grade you think. As long as those two line up you should be fine. Don't debate grading with Ted, just come up with a number. He's a slightly more forgiving grader, so sometimes I'll mention it to him and many times he comes up with a number I like, other times he doesn't.

 

Check out the smaller dealers with nice stuff as well. Many times, guys like Gary Platt (and the third tier guys) are great guys who have a thirty or forty super nice books and will aquire collections of high grade bronze stuff. It's not just the big boys always. Especially if you want 9.2s and less, that's often the way to go. They paid less, are less concerned with their margin, and are very interested in helping collectors out.

 

4) Don't be an a--hole.

 

You'd think this would common sense, but it's not. Some people complain all day long about a dealer's price and are like $20 apart on a $200 book. I'm of the mentality that if it's a dealer I really like and I want the book, I'm not going to haggle the guy for $20. But even if you feel this way, being polite goes a long way. Most dealers don't care if you pass, they just care if you're a d--k along the way.

 

5) Remember to ask.

 

I have a friend of mine who rarely asks for discounts. Sometimes dealers will just giver her one assuming she's going to ask, but often times they don't. This is insanity, the worst they can say is no.

 

6) Be reasonable:

 

When you get a fair offer, take it. Most people say always counter offer the dealer's number because he can always go lower. If I have a reason, I will counter offer, but not all the time. Many times, the offer you get from the dealer is more than fair. Don't just counter offer just to do it and save another $10.

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6) Be reasonable:

 

When you get a fair offer, take it. Most people say always counter offer the dealer's number because he can always go lower. If I have a reason, I will counter offer, but not all the time. Many times, the offer you get from the dealer is more than fair. Don't just counter offer just to do it and save another $10.

 

Great advice, Brian. The other piece I can add to this is that if you take up their time trying to haggle for a while, try to finish the deal. Guys who haggle, haggle, haggle and then NEVER end up buying the book really [#@$%!!!] dealers off. You've got to "show them the money" some of the time. Otherwise, you're wasting their time, and they'll remember it the next time.

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I was receiving about a 10% discount on some Metro books about 6 months ago. However, most of my recent bids have been declined by them, so I've been paying the full amount. Some dealers may also have consigned books, so it's a little harder to get discounts on these books.

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