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Dark Knight Returns Bag and Board Size

17 posts in this topic

I just bagged a #2,3 last week for subbing...

 

I used "Standard" 725 size (silver age size) Mylite2's and Standard 725 size Full Backs.

 

2 full backs per Mylite2 with a cheapo BCW silver age board inserted afterwards so there is no wiggle room at all i.e. the final product feels like a brick.

 

I use 725's on all of my modern+copper books...just use extra full backs.

 

 

 

 

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

 

 

Or, just wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

 

I've yet to see a DK book "discolored" by "heat from your fingers."

 

What a novel idea.

 

 

 

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I just bagged a #2,3 last week for subbing...

 

I used "Standard" 725 size (silver age size) Mylite2's and Standard 725 size Full Backs.

 

2 full backs per Mylite2 with a cheapo BCW silver age board inserted afterwards so there is no wiggle room at all i.e. the final product feels like a brick.

 

I use 725's on all of my modern+copper books...just use extra full backs.

 

 

 

 

2 fullbacks in a 725 won't work with most squarebound books - too tight, one is plenty. :sumo:

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

 

Or, just wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

 

I've yet to see a DK book "discolored" by "heat from your fingers."

 

What a novel idea.

 

 

This. Oils (natural or otherwise) are the issue, not heat. Just make sure your hands are clean and dry.

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I just bagged a #2,3 last week for subbing...

 

I used "Standard" 725 size (silver age size) Mylite2's and Standard 725 size Full Backs.

 

2 full backs per Mylite2 with a cheapo BCW silver age board inserted afterwards so there is no wiggle room at all i.e. the final product feels like a brick.

 

I use 725's on all of my modern+copper books...just use extra full backs.

 

 

 

 

2 fullbacks in a 725 won't work with most squarebound books - too tight, one is plenty. :sumo:

 

Nyet. :sumo:

 

Well, I should add that I use "broken in" mylite2's & full backs, for prepping subs....I'll use 3 fullbacks + a cheapo BCW silver board as a final nail in the coffin.

 

I'll grab that veritable brick of a comic and then I'll double bag her in a silver/gold Mylite2 with a silver/gold full back aaand a golden age (same as silver/gold) size cheapo BCW board.

 

Hence, the unrivaled........Copper Age Kids Tripled Full Backed & Double Sheathed Submission Method (Patent Pending).

 

monstress1_zpstneam4ly.jpg

 

monstress1side_zpsumw27j4q.jpg

 

monstress1top_zpsyc9kthyv.jpg

 

I'll de-bag/board books out of my $10 convention boxes that are weak $10's...and use those supplies for CGC subs.I usually use 1 full back and a few BCW silver boards (or 2 full backs + a BCW board) for my better convention stock ($10 and up stock) so the Mylite2's stretch out, after some time....and the full backs flatten out nicely.

 

 

I bought 2000 standard full backs direct from Gerber 3 months ago and over 75% of them are un-effing usable i.e. slightly warped/wavy.

 

I have to store them under 100+ pounds of weight and take out a pack of 50 at a time, from the very bottom of a stack.

 

Huge pain in the balls....so used mylite2's & full backs are primarily what I use for CGC subs b/c I will use THREE Gerber full backs and a single BCW board inside of a standard mylite2- for modern/copper books.You can't fit that kinda action into a new Mylite2...and most new fullback boards are uneven...they're best when they cradle a book's spine, which is an effect from a book being inside of a packed short box.

 

In a roundabout way, I "press" my full backs before I use them for CGC subs hm

 

 

 

 

 

 

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

 

 

Or, just wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

 

I've yet to see a DK book "discolored" by "heat from your fingers."

 

What a novel idea.

 

 

 

Body heat causes sweat/oil production.This has happened to me (on a DK book, actually, and a couple other moderns with easily marred paper stock) while wearing vinyl gloves.

 

Cotton gloves are only a few bucks at CVS... (shrug)

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

 

 

Or, just wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

 

I've yet to see a DK book "discolored" by "heat from your fingers."

 

What a novel idea.

 

 

 

Body heat causes sweat/oil production.This has happened to me (on a DK book, actually, and a couple other moderns with easily marred paper stock) while wearing vinyl gloves.

 

Cotton gloves are only a few bucks at CVS... (shrug)

 

 

No. "Body heat" does not cause oil production, nor does it cause sweat. Sebaceous glands cause oil production, and sweat is caused by exertion, external temperatures, or other causes as the body thermoregulates itself. Heat production by itself, which is constant in living humans, is not the cause of either sweat or oil. A resting body in 37 deg F will not produce sweat, even though body heat is still being produced.

 

All you need to do is thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water before handling the books and you'll be fine...just don't touch your face or head in the meantime.

 

I've handled hundreds of these books, and rarely fingerprinted any (except when I wasn't paying attention), and never discolored any with my fingers.

 

Maybe the vinyl gloves you were wearing were the problem (vinyl...? You sure it wasn't nitrile...?)

 

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I just bagged a #2,3 last week for subbing...

 

I used "Standard" 725 size (silver age size) Mylite2's and Standard 725 size Full Backs.

 

2 full backs per Mylite2 with a cheapo BCW silver age board inserted afterwards so there is no wiggle room at all i.e. the final product feels like a brick.

 

I use 725's on all of my modern+copper books...just use extra full backs.

 

 

 

 

2 fullbacks in a 725 won't work with most squarebound books - too tight, one is plenty. :sumo:

 

Nyet. :sumo:

 

Well, I should add that I use "broken in" mylite2's & full backs, for prepping subs....I'll use 3 fullbacks + a cheapo BCW silver board as a final nail in the coffin.

 

I'll grab that veritable brick of a comic and then I'll double bag her in a silver/gold Mylite2 with a silver/gold full back aaand a golden age (same as silver/gold) size cheapo BCW board.

 

Hence, the unrivaled........Copper Age Kids Tripled Full Backed & Double Sheathed Submission Method (Patent Pending).

 

monstress1_zpstneam4ly.jpg

 

monstress1side_zpsumw27j4q.jpg

 

monstress1top_zpsyc9kthyv.jpg

 

I'll de-bag/board books out of my $10 convention boxes that are weak $10's...and use those supplies for CGC subs.I usually use 1 full back and a few BCW silver boards (or 2 full backs + a BCW board) for my better convention stock ($10 and up stock) so the Mylite2's stretch out, after some time....and the full backs flatten out nicely.

 

 

I bought 2000 standard full backs direct from Gerber 3 months ago and over 75% of them are un-effing usable i.e. slightly warped/wavy.

 

I have to store them under 100+ pounds of weight and take out a pack of 50 at a time, from the very bottom of a stack.

 

Huge pain in the balls....so used mylite2's & full backs are primarily what I use for CGC subs b/c I will use THREE Gerber full backs and a single BCW board inside of a standard mylite2- for modern/copper books.You can't fit that kinda action into a new Mylite2...and most new fullback boards are uneven...they're best when they cradle a book's spine, which is an effect from a book being inside of a packed short box.

 

In a roundabout way, I "press" my full backs before I use them for CGC subs hm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And how do you address ink rub.........?

 

:popcorn:

 

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perfect! thanks you guys... I couldn't see myself cracking it open and trying to jam it into a modern bag and board without knowing for sure...

 

Sure...remember to wear gloves when you bag the DK 1.

 

DK books are virtually finger print magnets.Even with surgical gloves in, the heat from your fingers can cause a bit of discoloration so it's best to handle these books with cotton gloves.

 

 

Or, just wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

 

I've yet to see a DK book "discolored" by "heat from your fingers."

 

What a novel idea.

 

 

 

Body heat causes sweat/oil production.This has happened to me (on a DK book, actually, and a couple other moderns with easily marred paper stock) while wearing vinyl gloves.

 

Cotton gloves are only a few bucks at CVS... (shrug)

 

 

No. "Body heat" does not cause oil production, nor does it cause sweat. Sebaceous glands cause oil production, and sweat is caused by exertion, external temperatures, or other causes as the body thermoregulates itself. Heat production by itself, which is constant in living humans, is not the cause of either sweat or oil. A resting body in 37 deg F will not produce sweat, even though body heat is still being produced.

 

All you need to do is thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water before handling the books and you'll be fine...just don't touch your face or head in the meantime.

 

I've handled hundreds of these books, and rarely fingerprinted any (except when I wasn't paying attention), and never discolored any with my fingers.

 

Maybe the vinyl gloves you were wearing were the problem (vinyl...? You sure it wasn't nitrile...?)

 

 

Well, there is the issue, (bolded your qoute above)....when I bag/board books, I am also pressing books.

 

When I am prepping/pressing books, I shut my A/C off because if i don't, the A/C will blow the pages all over...hardly what I want to happen.I have to sgut the window and turn the ceiling fan off, for the same reason.

 

Aaaand 90% of the time, when I'm engaged in this process, it is usually a ridiculous thing where I will chug Red Bulls for hours on end, trying to dry clean & press a couple dozen or so books before subbing them at a show :insane:

 

That said...within a minute of the time when I shut off my A/C, I will start to sweat .And by sweat, I mean, I'll have beads of sweat falling off of my forehead.When I take the gloves off, the inside of the gloves will have beads of sweat throughout them.

 

No A/C in a room with the windows shut in August on a second floor of a house in Jersey...add in caffiene's diuretic properties...and it's a pretty nasty sight.

 

Maybe it is the vinyl...and I should be wearing latex gloves....

 

Here's a pic of the gloves I wear, there's no listing of what they are actually comprised of anywhere on the box I have....

 

http://www.cvs.com/bizcontent/merchandising/productimages/large/5042826287.jpg

 

In any event, if I put cotton gloves on, that acts as a fine buffer.Vinyl gloves, not so much.

 

 

 

 

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I just bagged a #2,3 last week for subbing...

 

I used "Standard" 725 size (silver age size) Mylite2's and Standard 725 size Full Backs.

 

2 full backs per Mylite2 with a cheapo BCW silver age board inserted afterwards so there is no wiggle room at all i.e. the final product feels like a brick.

 

I use 725's on all of my modern+copper books...just use extra full backs.

 

 

 

 

2 fullbacks in a 725 won't work with most squarebound books - too tight, one is plenty. :sumo:

 

Nyet. :sumo:

 

Well, I should add that I use "broken in" mylite2's & full backs, for prepping subs....I'll use 3 fullbacks + a cheapo BCW silver board as a final nail in the coffin.

 

I'll grab that veritable brick of a comic and then I'll double bag her in a silver/gold Mylite2 with a silver/gold full back aaand a golden age (same as silver/gold) size cheapo BCW board.

 

Hence, the unrivaled........Copper Age Kids Tripled Full Backed & Double Sheathed Submission Method (Patent Pending).

 

monstress1_zpstneam4ly.jpg

 

monstress1side_zpsumw27j4q.jpg

 

monstress1top_zpsyc9kthyv.jpg

 

I'll de-bag/board books out of my $10 convention boxes that are weak $10's...and use those supplies for CGC subs.I usually use 1 full back and a few BCW silver boards (or 2 full backs + a BCW board) for my better convention stock ($10 and up stock) so the Mylite2's stretch out, after some time....and the full backs flatten out nicely.

 

 

I bought 2000 standard full backs direct from Gerber 3 months ago and over 75% of them are un-effing usable i.e. slightly warped/wavy.

 

I have to store them under 100+ pounds of weight and take out a pack of 50 at a time, from the very bottom of a stack.

 

Huge pain in the balls....so used mylite2's & full backs are primarily what I use for CGC subs b/c I will use THREE Gerber full backs and a single BCW board inside of a standard mylite2- for modern/copper books.You can't fit that kinda action into a new Mylite2...and most new fullback boards are uneven...they're best when they cradle a book's spine, which is an effect from a book being inside of a packed short box.

 

In a roundabout way, I "press" my full backs before I use them for CGC subs hm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And how do you address ink rub.........?

 

:popcorn:

 

Ink rub......from where?

 

I don't understand the question.

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I take a modern comic board, bag it alone with a modern comic bag and tape closed. I than take the Dark Knight and set it on the bagged board. Than use a Silver bag over the book and bagged backing board. This gives the book a bag on bag each side to prevent rubbing.

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Well, there is the issue, (bolded your qoute above)....when I bag/board books, I am also pressing books.

 

When I am prepping/pressing books, I shut my A/C off because if i don't, the A/C will blow the pages all over...hardly what I want to happen.I have to sgut the window and turn the ceiling fan off, for the same reason.

 

Aaaand 90% of the time, when I'm engaged in this process, it is usually a ridiculous thing where I will chug Red Bulls for hours on end, trying to dry clean & press a couple dozen or so books before subbing them at a show :insane:

 

That said...within a minute of the time when I shut off my A/C, I will start to sweat .And by sweat, I mean, I'll have beads of sweat falling off of my forehead.When I take the gloves off, the inside of the gloves will have beads of sweat throughout them.

 

No A/C in a room with the windows shut in August on a second floor of a house in Jersey...add in caffiene's diuretic properties...and it's a pretty nasty sight.

 

Maybe it is the vinyl...and I should be wearing latex gloves....

 

Here's a pic of the gloves I wear, there's no listing of what they are actually comprised of anywhere on the box I have....

 

http://www.cvs.com/bizcontent/merchandising/productimages/large/5042826287.jpg

 

In any event, if I put cotton gloves on, that acts as a fine buffer.Vinyl gloves, not so much.

 

 

 

Memes. I sense they are coming soon.

 

I only press my books in a steam sauna or a perfect vacuum or inside a meat locker. That way the pages never move.

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Well, there is the issue, (bolded your qoute above)....when I bag/board books, I am also pressing books.

 

When I am prepping/pressing books, I shut my A/C off because if i don't, the A/C will blow the pages all over...hardly what I want to happen.I have to sgut the window and turn the ceiling fan off, for the same reason.

 

Aaaand 90% of the time, when I'm engaged in this process, it is usually a ridiculous thing where I will chug Red Bulls for hours on end, trying to dry clean & press a couple dozen or so books before subbing them at a show :insane:

 

That said...within a minute of the time when I shut off my A/C, I will start to sweat .And by sweat, I mean, I'll have beads of sweat falling off of my forehead.When I take the gloves off, the inside of the gloves will have beads of sweat throughout them.

 

No A/C in a room with the windows shut in August on a second floor of a house in Jersey...add in caffiene's diuretic properties...and it's a pretty nasty sight.

 

Maybe it is the vinyl...and I should be wearing latex gloves....

 

Here's a pic of the gloves I wear, there's no listing of what they are actually comprised of anywhere on the box I have....

 

http://www.cvs.com/bizcontent/merchandising/productimages/large/5042826287.jpg

 

In any event, if I put cotton gloves on, that acts as a fine buffer.Vinyl gloves, not so much.

 

 

 

Memes. I sense they are coming soon.

 

I only press my books in a steam sauna or a perfect vacuum or inside a meat locker. That way the pages never move.

 

1bb2up.jpgvia Imgflip Meme Generator

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