Hero Restoration

I thought it might have looked that way but the book is in front of the bag and board. I usually just use the board but I was in a hurry. I realize I didn't take many angles but I was getting tired of allot of pics just for the experiment to go wrong. I will do a better job of taking pictures next time. I saw the sample book but it didn't say what size the samples were. I will look into it, thanks.

Pressing Experiment 101101522 Ok, so I have been working at it hard and I think I am getting close to it coming out right and need opinions on the results. 2 min at 175 degrees or so, maybe lower , glass,backboard, Mylar on outside of book and release paper inside the cover so pages wont stick. My next experiment is going to be at 1 1/2 minutes. BTW has anyone tried silicon polyester film? Its $80 a roll and thats a little steep for me if it's not what I would want but it sounds like the best of both worlds since its smooth and has release properties.

Np, the reason I asked is I noticed the longer something has been on a comic, the more work it takes to get it out. On experiment 101101501 the last book I pressed was already flat and didn’t cockle when it was done. I am beginning to think the cockling is due to the book being so messed up to begin with and I am not completely pressing all the pages right. Its slow going but I will post more pics soon.

Looks nice, did you make that bend for experimenting or was it there for a while?

I want to update that I am still working on my pressing experiment and I have noticed using the Mylar the comic is smoother and shinier than with the release paper. I would however be scared to try it on a book with CT or pieces added. I will have more pics when I get a flatter result.

I would think you need something flat between the felt pad and comic. I think it was in there to long . Going to experiment more and see what I can come up with.

Mike, Do you leave the books in the press to cool? Or do you take them out and allow them to cool elsewhere? I see I forgot important details and I am sorry for the confusion. its at 195 when I put it in between mylar and 4/8" glass, press down, leave on for a few minutes then I shut off and leave in press till it cools to cold, this one sat in it overnight. What do you think

Oh, too hot eh? it actually goes up to 185 then turns off till it drops to 165. I thought that was the right range. I suppose though 185 was a good test for the mylar experiment? What do you guys think is the right temp then ?

I ended up using Mylar type D because silicone release paper was not readily available and because mylar can withstand temperatures down to minus 100 degrees F without getting brittle, and will not begin to soften and melt until temperatures are in excess of 400 degrees F, it is highly durable, dimensionally stable, reusable, inert, smooth and clear. All these things seem to work in its favor, and I never experienced any ink transfer with it. Regarding temperature, I found it depends on the age and history of the book. I realized significant ink transfer down to 125 degrees F on circa 1970 books with low cover gloss prior to my use of mylar. Conversely, I took a glossy silver age book up to 180 degrees F for a significant period of time with no ink transfer. So NA got me curious about the Mylar. I thought this would be a good chance for me to post an experiment with the mylar and try to approach my post the right way. Pressing Experiment # 101101501 My press is set at 185 degrees and comic was exposed to the temp for 5min then stays in press while it cools down. I only pressed it from the front of comic. I did not get any ink transfer but the Mylar has little bumps in it afterwards. In comparison release paper seems to wrinkle afterwards.

A shiny cover sounds good but I bet its not uniformly shiny or I would experiment with it. Thanks on the mylar, saves me from trying that. I kind of gave you a hard time Kenny and I am sorry, you didn't deserve it. I would prefer humidity pressing myself (I think its less harmful to the paper and yields better results) but that means detaching the cover and getting it not to cockle when drying. sigh..... Sounds easy but it sure ain't.

You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. I was concerned that the parchment paper had a bit of a texture to it, so I tried a sheet of mylar and that solved any ink transfer/ adhesion problems. I never thought of trying mylar. One presser told me to use yupo paper so I did. Its interesting how it reacts in the press but its scary how easily it can damage the cover so I don't recommend it. Man FFB, I can think of a million questions I would like ask you. You seem to be an experienced paper conservator from the answers you give. Is parchment the same as wax paper? Just curious as I am happy with the silicon.

Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps.

(thumbs u

Yup Yup its not about who has the best. What makes this topic fun is you get to see other comic geeks rooms. Lets see a pic of the CGC's on the other side.

murals are cool. I cant wait. What kind are you thinking of doing ?

Yeah 97% is what I think they are rated for which is why most of my stuff is high up enough so direct light doesn't hit them. They are not completely safe but far better than if I had no protection. It's prolly selfish of me but I like to see my stuff rather than it sit in a box and yes I do what I want.

I dont have but a few comics for sale ATM. Mostly plan on selling some unrestored doubles, Some pressed and dry cleaned and some restored just to see what they sell for. I am just getting my website going so you wont see much right away. I am working on extreme disclosure so it takes a while to put stuff up as I do front,back scans and pic's of inside cover and centerfold and try to list every defect and grade them which takes time. Most of what I will sell will be cheap low grade stuff. Here's my site: www.mikescomicsshop.com

I dont know if maybe its already been covered but since you all intersted in file cabinets here's a link to that very subject. I dont know anything about that type of storage but it looks like these guys have it figured out. Hope it helps. http://www.comicspriceguide.com/boards/Topic23381-20-1.aspx

You can get completely clear on a roll. Also comes in mirror,smoke,stain glass look and others. I have clear and its clear as can be. It would be really smart of CGC to incorporate it into their cases. I think you can by magazine bags with UV proection. That might work better for the CGC cases.

I have UV protection on window and lights. Here's a link to the stuff I used if your interested. I dont sell it but it will redirect to someone who does. http://www.mikescomicshop.com/24501.html

Here's my room.

Excelent, thanks Scott. Ze-man I will start a before and after thread. Hopefully I wont be the only one posting pics.

Yeah I saw those sprays and wondered if that was good enough or should they be soaked. I just figured I would save some money if the cleaning solution which is alkaline would neutralize the acid in the paper anyways. I suppose I could get some test strips and find out for me which is pretty much what I have had to do so far is trial and error. I do see a bunch of acid in the wash water after I'm done.