It really is about following directions. I was told if I went to Baghdad "it would be a one way ticket." I was told this from cab drivers to a United Nations election official lawyer. Finally on one of the last days there I was introduced to someone described as in "the mafia" in Iraq. I believe this to be a joke on a "crazy American" looking to die, however, the person seemed ernest that if I had money to rent a bullet/bomb proof car and a security detail of 4 that he could get me there although I would not be allowed to enter the green zone. I told him I just wanted to "chill" in Baghdad. And he said, "forever?" The road from As Sulaymaniyah (where we were) to Baghdad is the problem, not so much the city of Baghdad.