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Shipping OA

Started by Shootydog,

20 posts in this topic

Shootydog

Shootydog

Posted
Posted

Ok....I have tried searched and failed. Perhaps its me so if someone can point me to a thread that gives me some hints I would appreciate it.

 

How does one actually ship a piece of OA without risk of damage? Am I beating my head against a wall that isnt so hard?

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alxjhnsn

alxjhnsn

Posted
Posted

Masonite is strong, but can be broken.

 

Foam board is easily punctured.

 

I would put foam around Masonite if I was shipping anything valuable.

 

Also, be sure to ship using a method that requires a signature and offers tracking. From other conversations, I've heard that the USPS and FedEx are better than UPS. There seems to be better handling of the materials.

 

Hope this helps.

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AKA Rick

AKA Rick

Posted
Posted

If the artwork is standard 11" x 17", I'd recommend These 10 Steps:

 

1) First off bagging the artwork in a 3 mil storage poly bag (you can find 'em at www.bagsunlimited.com) to avoid any possible damages related to moisture or surface dirt or impact wearing. This is crucial for anything that's penciled only to avoid and damages to the delecate surface. I'd tape the bag sealed for added protection. Mail artwork FLAT (oddly enough, I have received artwork rolled like a poster in a tube once!)

 

2) Use thick FLAT cardboard or stuff sturdy packaging around the artwork, not just sized 11" x 17", but oversized so that in the event there's any edge or corner impact damages it does not touch the artwork. So, I'd recommend at least a 2" added bordered/surrounding area, so the that's 15" x 21". This is the part which hurts most art deals, not having adequate shipping care and considerations.

 

3) Tape the bagged artwork to cardboard to ensure it does not slide around and that it's centered.

 

4) For expensive artwork, I'd recommend masonite boards, although they're expensive and heavy (added shipping weight = $S&H $). I've had art ship in masonite boards that arrived with a judo karate chop, cracked (but if you have the cardboard packaging inside, it prevents the sharp wooden edges from penetrating the artwork and keeps the art for the most part, odds on favorite to be intact.

 

5) For lesser priced artwork, using added layers of cardboard or foamcore board is recommended, it's lighter and the overall cost of materials and shipping weight save on S&H $.

 

6) Then the final touch should be to put the mummified artwork into either a large bubble wrap envelope, or use nice brown shipping paper, and tape it sealed nice to avoid it coming apart at the edges or corners.

 

7) Type out the address label. No matter how well you think your penmanship is, nothing beats large typewritten fonts. Include your return mailing address. Tape your labels to the package so they're secure and don't come off, and so that they don't get smudged or altered.

 

8) Use some sort of delivery confirmation. If you package your art correctly and have the shipping label proper, the necessity of insurance (which sometimes is a double edged sword since it alerts the mail handler and anyone who sees the package that the contents has a value to it, so if you're sending a $5k piece of artwork, you're basically advertising the value inside).

 

9) Put it through the test, see if you could bend the package (if using corrigated cardboard which has natural lines which easily bends is not recommended, or cardboard with natural flap bends, nor is using just a simple bubble wrap envelope or the single USPS Priority Mail Box whether flat or opened. If you have reasonable doubts that it can get damaged, then go with your instincts and package it the way you would like to see artwork delivered to you, in iron clad protective packaging that's sturdy to survive both reasonable and unreasonable conditions. It's worth the time and money. Most buyers are willing to pay extra S&H if they know the "Handling" covers the white glove treatment of proper packaging materials and the time it takes to deliver something in pristine condition.

 

10) Always let your buyer know when you sent the item, confirm the delivery address and provide confirmation numbers. It helps them know when to expect the parcel, as well as eliminates unnecessary communication, reduces customer service issues and by providing confirmation information, also reduces the odds of buyer fraud. (When shipping international, since that's where fraud occurs most, your selling terms should include manditory tracking/delivery confirmation with that exact cost passed onto the buyer, if done through an auction model, fully disclaim the terms and then everybody knows the deal going into it and can't (or shouldn't) complain).

 

 

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Meeley Man

Meeley Man

Posted
Posted
If the artwork is standard 11" x 17", I'd recommend These 10 Steps:

 

1) First off bagging the artwork in a 3 mil storage poly bag (you can find 'em at www.bagsunlimited.com) to avoid any possible damages related to moisture or surface dirt or impact wearing. This is crucial for anything that's penciled only to avoid and damages to the delecate surface. I'd tape the bag sealed for added protection. Mail artwork FLAT (oddly enough, I have received artwork rolled like a poster in a tube once!)

 

2) Use thick FLAT cardboard or stuff sturdy packaging around the artwork, not just sized 11" x 17", but oversized so that in the event there's any edge or corner impact damages it does not touch the artwork. So, I'd recommend at least a 2" added bordered/surrounding area, so the that's 15" x 21". This is the part which hurts most art deals, not having adequate shipping care and considerations.

 

3) Tape the bagged artwork to cardboard to ensure it does not slide around and that it's centered.

 

4) For expensive artwork, I'd recommend masonite boards, although they're expensive and heavy (added shipping weight = $S&H $). I've had art ship in masonite boards that arrived with a judo karate chop, cracked (but if you have the cardboard packaging inside, it prevents the sharp wooden edges from penetrating the artwork and keeps the art for the most part, odds on favorite to be intact.

 

5) For lesser priced artwork, using added layers of cardboard or foamcore board is recommended, it's lighter and the overall cost of materials and shipping weight save on S&H $.

 

6) Then the final touch should be to put the mummified artwork into either a large bubble wrap envelope, or use nice brown shipping paper, and tape it sealed nice to avoid it coming apart at the edges or corners.

 

7) Type out the address label. No matter how well you think your penmanship is, nothing beats large typewritten fonts. Include your return mailing address. Tape your labels to the package so they're secure and don't come off, and so that they don't get smudged or altered.

 

8) Use some sort of delivery confirmation. If you package your art correctly and have the shipping label proper, the necessity of insurance (which sometimes is a double edged sword since it alerts the mail handler and anyone who sees the package that the contents has a value to it, so if you're sending a $5k piece of artwork, you're basically advertising the value inside).

 

9) Put it through the test, see if you could bend the package (if using corrigated cardboard which has natural lines which easily bends is not recommended, or cardboard with natural flap bends, nor is using just a simple bubble wrap envelope or the single USPS Priority Mail Box whether flat or opened. If you have reasonable doubts that it can get damaged, then go with your instincts and package it the way you would like to see artwork delivered to you, in iron clad protective packaging that's sturdy to survive both reasonable and unreasonable conditions. It's worth the time and money. Most buyers are willing to pay extra S&H if they know the "Handling" covers the white glove treatment of proper packaging materials and the time it takes to deliver something in pristine condition.

 

10) Always let your buyer know when you sent the item, confirm the delivery address and provide confirmation numbers. It helps them know when to expect the parcel, as well as eliminates unnecessary communication, reduces customer service issues and by providing confirmation information, also reduces the odds of buyer fraud. (When shipping international, since that's where fraud occurs most, your selling terms should include manditory tracking/delivery confirmation with that exact cost passed onto the buyer, if done through an auction model, fully disclaim the terms and then everybody knows the deal going into it and can't (or shouldn't) complain).

 

I'll have to pretty much back this up. I do almost everything stated here and I've not really had an issues with my customers. In fact, I only had to claim the insurance on one shipment in almost three years of selling OA (it was an International order, too, which made the paperwork and working with various post offices a bit of a headache).

 

But, overall, I think following the instructions put forth here will give you about as great a chance to prevent damage as possible. THe only thing that might be better would be to charter a flight to the buyer's region and take to yourself (although, that isn't nearly as economically feasible ;) ).

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mrpunch0

mrpunch0

Posted
Posted

You just need to make sure the art stays flat, secure and dry.

 

Always start with a mylar sleeve. After that, I've used:

 

Masonite: Sandwich between two boards and secure with duct tape. Will snap in half under the right circumstances. I've had a couple pieces damaged this way.

 

Foam core: Take four sheets, put the art in the middle. Duct tape. Risk of puncture.

 

Cardboard: If you're going to use this, use several layers. (I like six.) And make sure to alternate which way the corrugation falls to make it that much harder to bend. Risk of puncture.

 

DO NOT:

 

... ship without mylar. If you do, your package will get wet. Trust me.

... ship in a plain envelope. It's just dumb.

... ship floating in Priority Mail or FedEx box. It works fine if you're sending enough pages to fill the box (I've seen pros who carry their stacks of art to cons this way) - but just one or two pages floating around in there will damage the art.

... ship without insurance and assume it will be OK. Pay the extra $5 or so.

... use UPS. They are the butchers. USPS Priority Mail is the best I've encountered. Especially for the price.

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Royd

Royd

Posted
Posted

I started selling original artwork on behalf of Colin Wilson (Blueberry, Point Blank, Battler Britton, Judge Dredd etc.) and Nicola Scott (Secret Six, Birds of Prey) about 9 months ago and I've sent somewhere around 50 parcels around the world.

 

To date, I've had no problems using Elmer's foamcore board (half inch thick) which as others have said is lightweight and sturdy. The art is shipped in a plastic sleeve/bag, taped to the inside of one sheet of foamcore board and then a second sheet is placed over it sandwiching it between the two. Masonite is great but its weight adds appreciably to the cost when shipping overseas as I am from Australia. Best,

 

Royd

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bocaratondefense

bocaratondefense

Posted
Posted

If the original art is valuable, usually the cost of secure packaging is but a small fraction of the overall cost. Does anyone have better packaging than Heritage?

 

- The art is placed in sealed poly bags with cardboard backing.

- The poly bag is sandwiched between several layers of cardboard.

- The cardboard is placed in a perfectly fitted large cardboard box filled with foam peanuts.

- The cardboard box is sent by Fed Ex and requires signature confirmation.

 

I'm sure the way in which Heritage packages it's art is expensive. But considering the value of some of the art that we buy and sell, I am surprised more dealers and collectors have not followed suit.

 

By way of comparison, most of the pages that I receive are sandwiched between two freebie flat priority mail boxes. Some are in mylar sleeves or poly bags, but some are just loose. Fortunately thus far nothing has been damaged.

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HeroDreamer

HeroDreamer

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Posted

Where do you guys like to shop for your OA shipping supplies? I have never shopped for masonite or foam board. I assume I can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot? I am going to be selling some pages in the next month and want to start getting my supplies together now.

 

 

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*paull*

*paull*

Posted
Posted
If the original art is valuable, usually the cost of secure packaging is but a small fraction of the overall cost. Does anyone have better packaging than Heritage?

 

- The art is placed in sealed poly bags with cardboard backing.

- The poly bag is sandwiched between several layers of cardboard.

- The cardboard is placed in a perfectly fitted large cardboard box filled with foam peanuts.

- The cardboard box is sent by Fed Ex and requires signature confirmation.

 

I'm sure the way in which Heritage packages it's art is expensive. But considering the value of some of the art that we buy and sell, I am surprised more dealers and collectors have not followed suit.

 

By way of comparison, most of the pages that I receive are sandwiched between two freebie flat priority mail boxes. Some are in mylar sleeves or poly bags, but some are just loose. Fortunately thus far nothing has been damaged.

 

Back in the mid-90s, I purchased a page from another collector and being young and naive, I didn't specify how I wanted it shipped. He ended up sending it in a mylar that was placed between two pieces of foamcore. It did, thankfully, arrive safely. But considering the artist and the price, I can't believe it was shipped that way. Getting anything shipped now, I would definitely go the masonite route, or multiple layers of cardboard placed in a padded box.

 

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comix4fun

comix4fun

Posted
Posted
Where do you guys like to shop for your OA shipping supplies? I have never shopped for masonite or foam board. I assume I can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot? I am going to be selling some pages in the next month and want to start getting my supplies together now.

 

 

 

Masonite works. I used to use it more often but laid off when my local home depot stopped cutting the boards for free. You can make some nice 16"x24" masonite sandwiches from the 4 foot by 8 foot 1/8" boards they have at Home Depot. One sheet is enough for 6 packages and costs about $1.00 to $1.25 in cost of masonite.

 

As an alternative, I have been using these for the last two years.

 

From Bags Unlimited these are 16"x25" map/newpaper/art mailers.

 

mnp.jpg

 

It gives about 2" to 3" top, bottom and side buffer area.

I order a relatively large quantity and they cost me about $1 per package with filler pads.

 

They wind up being, on average, about 1 lb lighter than masonite per package. That will save you on shipping cost and they are very sturdy.

 

 

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