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What would you do?

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You've got some cracked CGC books that you want to sell raw. Certs are still with the books. You grade them and you don't agree with the CGC grades on some of them.

 

When you sell them, what grade do you use?

 

What information do you give when you sell them?

 

How do you figure out what a fair market price would be?

 

(shrug)

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If you are selling them raw, you should assign your own raw grade. This applies to you because you are known as a very tight grader. Someone with less experience than you have should probably stick to the CGC grade.

 

Or you could always resub them, but the cost probably wouldn't be worth it.

 

Just my 2c

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If you are selling them raw, you should assign your own raw grade. This applies to you because you are known as a very tight grader. Someone with less experience than you have should probably stick to the CGC grade.

 

Or you could always resub them, but the cost probably wouldn't be worth it.

 

Just my 2c

+1

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I guess it might depend on who you are selling to, and your reputation as a grader. If they are low-dollar books that an average collector would buy, I'd imagine you would use the CGC grade, since that is more well-known to common collectors.

 

But if they are high-grade, high-dollar books and you have a well-known reputation as being a concise grader, then perhaps explaining the CGC grade, your findings and the differences - pricing it out at the grade you believe it to be would be the route to take.

 

2c

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You've got some cracked CGC books that you want to sell raw. Certs are still with the books. You grade them and you don't agree with the CGC grades on some of them.

 

When you sell them, what grade do you use?

 

What information do you give when you sell them?

 

How do you figure out what a fair market price would be?

 

(shrug)

 

I will give you my opinion.

 

I would list the CGC grade and my opinion of the grade with a good description of why I grade it that way. I would make sure to include the label. I would price the book(s) this way.

1. I believe CGC under graded, I would probably go GPA, maybe higher if it were a hot book that has been going up or one that is tough to find.

2. I believe CGC over graded, I would probably go under GPA and pick something close to the grade I assigned.

 

 

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I agree. Put your grade on them, leave the CGC label with the book and inform the prospective buyer. Price the book somewhere between your grade and GPA of the CGC grade, if possible.

 

This will do many things for you as a seller. It gives full disclosure so buyers can trust you if they haven't dealt with you before. You look like a hero since the buyer feels he got "a deal"....which may or may not be true based on whether the person grades tthe book.

 

I am also saying this based on if you feel CGC overgrazed it.....if you feel CGC undergarment the book, then it's a little less clear cut. CGC isn't consistent with their grading, so it's possible the book could ome back higher (or lower) based on which way the wind blows.

 

I sold a book to Mark Wilson years ago that was a 9.2 He felt that the book was undergraded, so he sent it in on a straight resub. It came back a 9.0 and he listed this information on his website when he finally got the book back. He wasn't obligated to list this information. The book was CGC graded, white pages and unrestored. It just happen to come back a grade lower. I always respected the fact that disclosed that information.

 

 

 

Just my hm

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What would you do?

I would have never cracked them out in the first place; however, since you obviously didn't follow that line of advice, I would do one of the following:

 

1) If you are going to include the CGC label with the book once it's sold, then you should state the grade CGC gave the book and the grade at which you are listing the book for sale.

 

2) If you are not going to include the CGC label with the book once it's sold, then you should only note the grade the grade at which you are listing the book for sale.

 

To include the CGC label with the book and have it significantly differ from your selling grade would only invite whining, moaning and kvetching from picky collectors and/or those that have no ability to grade on their own or take responsibility for their own actions.

 

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You've got some cracked CGC books that you want to sell raw. Certs are still with the books. You grade them and you don't agree with the CGC grades on some of them.

 

When you sell them, what grade do you use?

 

What information do you give when you sell them?

 

How do you figure out what a fair market price would be?

 

(shrug)

 

I will give you my opinion.

 

I would list the CGC grade and my opinion of the grade with a good description of why I grade it that way. I would make sure to include the label. I would price the book(s) this way.

1. I believe CGC under graded, I would probably go GPA, maybe higher if it were a hot book that has been going up or one that is tough to find.

2. I believe CGC over graded, I would probably go under GPA and pick something close to the grade I assigned.

 

I would do the same.
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Honestly, I think you SHOULD mention the CGC grade. This is why if I ever was going to buy a 'raw' book for my personal collection; I would ALWAYS ask if it was ever graded before. While the sell er could easily 'lie' to me; if I ever found out he or she was lying, it would tell me a lot about what motivates the seller.

 

CGC is recognized as the market leader. If these are considered somewhat valuable key issues, or even high grade; chances are they will be graded again. While it is not in my opinion lying if this information is not disclosed; I do consider this an ethical 'grey' area.

 

Why wouldn't you disclose all the information you know about a collectible when selling? As someone in the antiques and collectibles business myself, I consider this good business and think ALL information should be readily provided to a buyer. It is the only way they can make an informed choice.

 

Just my opinion. Then again, I just talked someone out of buying a $1,000+ video game I was selling. That being said, I sleep better at night knowing that I am providing the right kind of information; and collectibles; to the right kind of buyers.

 

Kind Regards,

 

'mint'

 

PS Nick is a GREAT delaer and I have bought from him. I think he would always do what is right!

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when you live in a CGC world of grading, the grade they gave it IS the grade. If you crack it out, for all intents and purposes that is STILL the grade until damage occurs.

 

To ever crack a book and argue that the book is actually a higher grade is something we have often criticized many dealers for doing. Why would it be any different now?

 

as a buyer, If I am shown that a books was slabbed a as a 9.2, Im not going to buy it as a 9.4 at a 9.4 price unless I just needed the book so badly (a scarcer book) or was planning to gamble that you are correct and slabbing it again would get the book the higher grade. But waiting for a "tea;" 9.4 would be safer and advisable.

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A cgc grade is no longer valid on a cracked out slab. Therefore, I would grade them as raw books.

as far as honest sellers go I don't think labels should be included with raw books. The label is essentially meaningless.

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A fair question, Nick.

 

I *always* include the CGC label when I sell or trade a cracked book. For better or worse, the CGC grade is now part of the book's history.

 

It can seem like walking a tightrope at times, true. For example, a few years back Metropolis bought (in auction from Heritage) Mile High/Church copies of Tip Top that CGC graded 7.0, cracked them, and listed them on their website raw at 9.0. If I were the buyer of those books and was unaware, I know I would most likely be unhappy once the facts came to light.

 

The easiest course to take is to provide full disclosure, and let any potential collateral issues fall where they may. You have such an outstanding and well-deserved reputation in the hobby, I doubt there will be any problems.

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well, thats technically true, as it protects CGC. but to a raw collector, buying a cracked book at the grade you wanted from a trusted seller is the best scenario, just a tad more risky than cracking it yourself.

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well, thats technically true, as it protects CGC. but to a raw collector, buying a cracked book at the grade you wanted from a trusted seller is the best scenario, just a tad more risky than cracking it yourself.

 

But if it's a "trusted seller" what's the issue?

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