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Which would you buy? 7.0SA or 3.0 universal

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I like that Kiki's cel you have.

 

Thanks. My family loves the Miyazaki movies, and this was the first we watched. I'd like to own a cell of all his movies, but I've found them impossible to find at any price, and I have a limited budget. I got this one at SDCC last year. The dealer actually had 3 Kiki cells. 1 was too expensive, and 1 had only a partial Kiki. This one had a nice kiki but the dealer's price was more than I wanted to spend. But I kept coming back, we talked, and finally on Saturday (my last day there) he gave me a 10% discount that fit in my budget.

 

Cool story. Kiki's is probably one of my top 5 Ghibli films. Probably 4th or 5th though. I remember the scene that your cel is from. I'm not a big cel collector anymore. Like you, my original goal to have one cel from each movie. All I have are just some Beavis and Butthead cels lol. I recently settled for just having posters signed by the Disney voice cast that worked on the Studio Ghibli dubs. It kinda took the urge away from getting the cels.

 

That's a good idea, haven't thought of that. It's a good option because these cells are impossible to find, and when you do find them they're very expensive. The Power Puff girls was one of the last cells made by hand. Soon thereafter they began making the program using computers, so the original cells are scarce. Or at least that's what the dealer told me when I bought it. I have no idea if it's the truth, I only dabble in collecting these things. I bought it because I have 3 girls, and when they were young we used to watch PPG. That was a while ago. Now they're teenagers and into zombies, vampires and horror movies.

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I deal in antiques as well as collect comics the comic industry is the only one that frowns on restoration.

 

I had a chance to buy of somebody a superman 1 which was mod restored (which i cant unrestore) or unrestored 1.0

 

I am planning to go for the restored one because the other one has brittile pages and is falling apart

 

once keys get unobtainable cos of price people will go for restored comics i think like with pence copies now.

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I appreciate the comments. It makes to think back to why I started buying graded books. If both were raw and the same price (which they were thereabouts), I definitely would have gone for the restored copy because it doesn't have the back tear, and by my eye I can't see the restoration. I used to avoid CGC books but now I have a bunch, and I've only changed in the last couple of years. When I ask myself why, I think it's because (1) I think 3rd party grading is here to stay and most likely it will be dominated by CGC; (2) graded books will appreciate faster than raw so are better investments (I don't plan on selling but I want to leave something of value to my kids; also, since they don't know much about comics, it will be easier for them to sell at a fair price if they're graded); (3) there's the human factor of having another person "officially" validate your comic; (4) more and more, sellers are pricing their raw comics based on what their CGC potential is -- this is mostly with higher grade keys and you can more easily get discounts because they're raw, but with the price gap narrowing, you might as well get the CGC book where someone else (the seller) had to take the risk on what it will grade out at (5) a comic in a slab looks very impresive, and it feels good when especially non-comic friends gawk at your collection.

 

btw, I'd never tear off a piece of a cover to get a universal grade. Wouldn't be able to do it.

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I deal in antiques as well as collect comics the comic industry is the only one that frowns on restoration.

 

This is not true. Furniture, firearms, coins, toys...does any type of antique actually embrace restoration?

 

 

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I deal in antiques as well as collect comics the comic industry is the only one that frowns on restoration.

 

This is not true. Furniture, firearms, coins, toys...does any type of antique actually embrace restoration?

 

Perhaps a true one of a kind piece in order to maintain stability and integrity.
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I had a DD1 7.0 plod (SA) with "very little CT"

 

It ended up being a dot that bled thru.

 

I cracked it open and very carefully removed the dot (pinhead size).

 

Resubbed and I got a 7.0 universal. I was expecting a 6.0 or 6.5, but I lucked out and got a 7.0

 

 

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I had a DD1 7.0 plod (SA) with "very little CT"

 

It ended up being a dot that bled thru.

 

I cracked it open and very carefully removed the dot (pinhead size).

 

Resubbed and I got a 7.0 universal. I was expecting a 6.0 or 6.5, but I lucked out and got a 7.0

 

 

Before and after scans or it didn't happen :sumo:

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I guess I could try and put my whole collection in my signature line. But what would be the point?

 

Or maybe I could put a video of a cat chasing a squirrel. But what would be the point?

 

Perhaps I could put find some hot chic pics and push the boundaries of what the mod's will tolerate. But what would be the point?

 

I know. I will make my signature line pics of my grandchildren. Because I just know that everyone will love looking at strange and unknown to them, kids. But what would be the point.

 

Perhaps a wall of text that explains what the secret of life is, in my signature line.

But what would be the point?

 

I think I will just put a few comic book pics, and rotate them from time to time. Seems like the way to go. Not overboard, and not too blah or too bling. Yep. That's what I'm-a gonna dooo....

 

Wisdom. :cloud9:

 

Dice I think I'm going to have to shut off sig. lines too. :pullhair:

There,that's better.Someone finally put me over the edge to shut off sig. lines. :facepalm:

 

I use ignore to avoid signatures that take up absurd amounts of screen space.*

 

*If someone on ignore has something important to say then someone will quote them. :sumo:

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I blocked sig lines once people started dropping videos into them.

 

While there have always been those that refused to buy restored books, and they have long sold for a discount, the purple label, which advertises the resto loud and clear has surely hurt their value further. I see the value of such labeling, as it warns the potential buyer up front, but at times the stigma seems overly harsh on books with minor resto. Is a sealed tear, that much worse than an unsealed tear? Is a small spot of color touch so much more offensive than a letter or name written on the cover with ink?

 

Years ago, prior to CGC, I had the choice of buying an FN or so Teen Age Dope Slaves with minor CT for $150, or a VG/F copy with no resto for $250 from the same dealer. I imagine the marketplace has subsequently indicated the unrestored copy would have been the better buy, but I bought the CT copy as it seemed like a relative bargain for three pinhead spots of black that don't bleed through and can only be seen by holding the book at an angle against the light. Keeping it raw has maximized my appreciation for the copy over the years.

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I used to avoid PLODS but the more I see them and realize I can't even detect 80% of the restoration the more I am okay with them. A little color touch or whatever doesn't matter to the collector in me. It's no ideal, sure, but in the case of a 7.0 PLOD vs. a 3.0 Universal, I can certainly see the argument for the PLOD. The comic fan (and not dealer) in me says that presentation and eye appeal reigns supreme in the long run I think.

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Honestly....I think the 3.0 was a no-brainer at the same price. Who cares about the back cover? That's the kind of 3.0 I search for. All the defects on the back. The front cover of the 3.0 presents like a VF (shrug)

 

Same for me. That is about as nice a 3.0 as you'll ever see.

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I deal in antiques as well as collect comics the comic industry is the only one that frowns on restoration.

 

This is not true. Furniture, firearms, coins, toys...does any type of antique actually embrace restoration?

 

 

Think about paintings 100s of years old, there's no choice but restoration.

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btw, I'd never tear off a piece of a cover to get a universal grade. Wouldn't be able to do it.

 

You wouldn't even poke a hole the size of a pinhead in the cover if you could turn that 7.0 PLOD into a 4.5 universal? Sometimes that's all it takes.

 

Yeah, I'd do this. Do you know of reliable professionals who can detect and remove color touches, glue, tear seals?

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