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Which would you buy? 7.0SA or 3.0 universal

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46% of your sig line are PLODs. You are clearly not bothered by restored books, presumably if they present better than their similarly priced universal counterpart.

 

Why is this particular book of concern, or are you now questioning the entirety of your past PLOD book purchases?

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Unrestored for me.

 

I guess I could try and put my whole collection in my signature line. But what would be the point?

 

Or maybe I could put a video of a cat chasing a squirrel. But what would be the point?

 

Perhaps I could put find some hot chic pics and push the boundaries of what the mod's will tolerate. But what would be the point?

 

I know. I will make my signature line pics of my grandchildren. Because I just know that everyone will love looking at strange and unknown to them, kids. But what would be the point.

 

Perhaps a wall of text that explains what the secret of life is, in my signature line.

But what would be the point?

 

I think I will just put a few comic book pics, and rotate them from time to time. Seems like the way to go. Not overboard, and not too blah or too bling. Yep. That's what I'm-a gonna dooo....

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46% of your sig line are PLODs. You are clearly not bothered by restored books, presumably if they present better than their similarly priced universal counterpart.

 

Why is this particular book of concern, or are you now questioning the entirety of your past PLOD books?

 

 

I'm thinking about this because the 3.0 looked so much better than a typical 3.0. Still, if I had to do it all over again, I don't think I could pull the trigger on the 3.0. It was too expensive for the grade given the tear and fold in the back. Let's say I restored it -- would it have graded out to 7.0 (sa)? At the con, my option was to buy the restored 7.0, or not get either and wait. But then I thought, would I ever had a chance to get a 7.0 ASM #1 (and it does look like a 7.0 to me), at a vg price. So that's what went through my head.

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46% of your sig line are PLODs. You are clearly not bothered by restored books, presumably if they present better than their similarly priced universal counterpart.

 

Why is this particular book of concern, or are you now questioning the entirety of your past PLOD books?

 

 

I'm thinking about this because the 3.0 looked so much better than a typical 3.0. Still, if I had to do it all over again, I don't think I could pull the trigger on the 3.0. It was too expensive for the grade given the tear and fold in the back. Let's say I restored it -- would it have graded out to 7.0 (sa)? At the con, my option was to buy the restored 7.0, or not get either and wait. But then I thought, would I ever had a chance to get a 7.0 ASM #1 (and it does look like a 7.0 to me), at a vg price. So that's what went through my head.

Don't you already have an ASM #1 restored 7.0? It's in your sig. line! (shrug)

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46% of your sig line are PLODs. You are clearly not bothered by restored books, presumably if they present better than their similarly priced universal counterpart.

 

Why is this particular book of concern, or are you now questioning the entirety of your past PLOD books?

 

 

I'm thinking about this because the 3.0 looked so much better than a typical 3.0. Still, if I had to do it all over again, I don't think I could pull the trigger on the 3.0. It was too expensive for the grade given the tear and fold in the back. Let's say I restored it -- would it have graded out to 7.0 (sa)? At the con, my option was to buy the restored 7.0, or not get either and wait. But then I thought, would I ever had a chance to get a 7.0 ASM #1 (and it does look like a 7.0 to me), at a vg price. So that's what went through my head.

I think you are making his point.

If your thoughts/regrets about the 3.0 blue are questions surrounding what it could have been IF you restored it, then you probably made the right choice based on your preference. Everyone in this thread saying you should have bought the 3.0 is wondering if the resto could be removed from the 7.0 & how that would grade out as a blue label, if possible

 

 

 

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I think you did fine, but then again, I'm not allergic to the purple label.

 

As someone had mentioned previously, I'd see about having the resto removed. It seemed like a book with pretty minimal work done to it, so maybe if the resto was removed, you could get it to grade out with a blue label higher than the 3.0 you passed on. Or you could just leave it slabbed and enjoy it as is; it hasn't been trimmed or had large sections of the book replaced, if that's any consolation. It wouldn't bother me at all if the price was right. I really think the future is going to be kind to books like this, but that's just my opinion.

 

That is the most BLAZING 3.0 I've ever seen, btw.

 

You made a good purchase, although either would have been a good purchase, considering how sharp the 3.0 was.

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I like that Kiki's cel you have.

 

Thanks. My family loves the Miyazaki movies, and this was the first we watched. I'd like to own a cell of all his movies, but I've found them impossible to find at any price, and I have a limited budget. I got this one at SDCC last year. The dealer actually had 3 Kiki cells. 1 was too expensive, and 1 had only a partial Kiki. This one had a nice kiki but the dealer's price was more than I wanted to spend. But I kept coming back, we talked, and finally on Saturday (my last day there) he gave me a 10% discount that fit in my budget.

 

Cool story. Kiki's is probably one of my top 5 Ghibli films. Probably 4th or 5th though. I remember the scene that your cel is from. I'm not a big cel collector anymore. Like you, my original goal to have one cel from each movie. All I have are just some Beavis and Butthead cels lol. I recently settled for just having posters signed by the Disney voice cast that worked on the Studio Ghibli dubs. It kinda took the urge away from getting the cels.

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If I was buying through the internet I would definitely get the 3.0. It looks fantastic from the front and value wise should always be on the upper end of the 3.0 grade values.

 

If I was able to hold the 7.0 in my hands and determine how much color touch, how much glue, and where and how long the tear seal was, then I would seriously consider buying the 7.0 with the intention of removing the resto. If I could assess that I could get a 4.0-4.5 after resto removal, then I would probably buy the 7.0.

 

It all depends on pricing too..... I'm guessing these two were basically the same price?

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Sure it is. Just tear off the piece that's color touched. Viola, blue label.

 

I was thinking the same thing but that's bad, bad. lol I'd have gone with the 3.0, I don't mind LG keys at all and like everyone has said, the 3.0 had most of its defects on the BC. That's my favorite kinda book. :cloud9:

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Sure it is. Just tear off the piece that's color touched. Viola, blue label.

 

If the Amateur color touch is just a "dot" of color that bleeds through... yes, you can remove the dot by removing the paper. Many times these dots are on the spine where it doesn't show as much or where there is already a lot of wear. But if the amateur CT is a lot of CT then no, you don't want to mess with it.

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Someone had a copy of AF 15 in the Marketplace that had a bunch of white dots all over it in the attempt to remove color touch. It was awful. If I bought a PLOD with CT, I'd have accepted it. It seems like the OP knew what he was buying and is happy with it.

 

Know the stigma about PLODs, I would have never started this thread though.

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