Adding overlay with Text Boxes to original art ?

[Catwoman_Fan]

After initially staying away for it, I've begun picking up modern (balloon-less) art pages.

 

Ideally, I would like to find some process for creating my own archive safe overlays with the balloons.

 

Can anybody recommend an inexpensive and safe way to add the text to my art?

 

Thanks,

Anthony

 

[Rodey]

Maybe this guy?

 

TEXT!

[Garf]

Printing on Mylar is possible but on a small scale probably an expensive service, most printing services I have seen that are cheap just offer acetate printing. I guess the kinda low rent way to do it would be to get a blank mylar sheet and put it inbetween the art and the acetate print you get from the print shop. Generally transparencies are very thin, but I don't know what results stacking them would yield

 

Quick google for a manufacturer of Mylar sheets throws this up:

 

http://www.grafixarts.com/home_article_pages/General_Frequently_Asked_Questions

[alxjhnsn]

Chris Ivy did work like this for me.

 

He did the logo and other items on this piece as an overlay (click to embiggen).

 

[Catwoman_Fan]

Thanks for the recommendations!

[Hekla]

Chris Ivy did work like this for me.

 

He did the logo and other items on this piece as an overlay (click to embiggen).

 

 

You always have cool & interesting commissions, Mr. Johnson

[jick]

After initially staying away for it, I've begun picking up modern (balloon-less) art pages.

 

Ideally, I would like to find some process for creating my own archive safe overlays with the balloons.

 

Can anybody recommend an inexpensive and safe way to add the text to my art?

 

Thanks,

Anthony

 

Not sure what you mean by "inexpensive" but just a couple of days ago I did a DIY project. Here are my steps but you need to know photoshop:

 

1. Scanned original cover, scaled it to be same size as the art (by making it an additional layer in Photoshop and superimposing it above that).

 

2. Took color out of the logos in the original cover, then I printed it out in hi-res "off-white" paper card stock. I did not use regular photo paper or white paper, because it actually doesn't match the comic art board well. The color will look too "blue-ish" compared to the rest of the page.

 

3. Printed also the pertinent portion of the cover - already scaled to match original art - on low resolution on bond paper - which serves as my logo placement guide.

 

4. I overlayed a transparency/acetate over that lo-res bond paper print out. Then I cut the hi-res prints on the off white paper card stock and paste it (using double sided tape) to the transparency as the lo-res bond paper printout under helps me with logo pasting location.

 

5. Now I have the logos over the transparency in the same distance as the actual cover. I just put the transparency over the original art, then matte over it then on to the frame.

 

I hope this is clear?

 

Here is my CAF page of the art without the logos but in the additional images section, you can see the original cover, and how I put the logos in the frame:

 

http://www.comicartfans.com/gallerypiece.asp?piece=890565

 

 

 

 

[Eric Seffinga]

keep in mind whatever you do, that many clear films, like acetate mentioned above, is NOT archivally safe, it will yellow, and can damage the art if it remains in contact with the surface.

 

I confess that if it is floating over the surface but not actually touching, I am unsure what effects that may have long-term. I do know than many non-archival plastics will off-gass over time, and this can have varying effects on papers and other things like glues, etc.

 

FWIW.

[Garf]

After initially staying away for it, I've begun picking up modern (balloon-less) art pages.

 

Ideally, I would like to find some process for creating my own archive safe overlays with the balloons.

 

Can anybody recommend an inexpensive and safe way to add the text to my art?

 

Thanks,

Anthony

 

Not sure what you mean by "inexpensive" but just a couple of days ago I did a DIY project. Here are my steps but you need to know photoshop:

 

1. Scanned original cover, scaled it to be same size as the art (by making it an additional layer in Photoshop and superimposing it above that).

 

2. Took color out of the logos in the original cover, then I printed it out in hi-res "off-white" paper card stock. I did not use regular photo paper or white paper, because it actually doesn't match the comic art board well. The color will look too "blue-ish" compared to the rest of the page.

 

3. Printed also the pertinent portion of the cover - already scaled to match original art - on low resolution on bond paper - which serves as my logo placement guide.

 

4. I overlayed a transparency/acetate over that lo-res bond paper print out. Then I cut the hi-res prints on the off white paper card stock and paste it (using double sided tape) to the transparency as the lo-res bond paper printout under helps me with logo pasting location.

 

5. Now I have the logos over the transparency in the same distance as the actual cover. I just put the transparency over the original art, then matte over it then on to the frame.

 

I hope this is clear?

 

Here is my CAF page of the art without the logos but in the additional images section, you can see the original cover, and how I put the logos in the frame:

 

 

http://www.comicartfans.com/gallerypiece.asp?piece=890565

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hrm. I really like the way you have done that. I have always preferred the idea of directly printed speech bubbles on tranparency on modern pages though seeing as they are done digitally anyway. However, your method really suits the era your cover is from.

 

Combining these http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-dura-lar-clear-acetate-alternative/ and printed speech bubbles is indeed likely to be the most cost effective method and easy to redo if the printouts fade if you keep stuff on file.

[jick]

keep in mind whatever you do, that many clear films, like acetate mentioned above, is NOT archivally safe, it will yellow, and can damage the art if it remains in contact with the surface.

 

I confess that if it is floating over the surface but not actually touching, I am unsure what effects that may have long-term. I do know than many non-archival plastics will off-gass over time, and this can have varying effects on papers and other things like glues, etc.

 

FWIW.

 

If you look closely, there is a "break" in the hand-to-bracelet of Mirror Master. That is because I only overlayed the acetate in the portion where the logos are. Below that is really not much art but just black ink. Also, the page is a recreation commission so it is really not that vital to avoid damage.

 

I know this will sound strange, but I actually want it to "yellow" or "age" over time to give the art some sort of vintage look since this is a 2012 recreation of a 1977 cover. That is just me I guess.

 

 

 

 

Hrm. I really like the way you have done that. I have always preferred the idea of directly printed speech bubbles on tranparency on modern pages though seeing as they are done digitally anyway. However, your method really suits the era your cover is from.

 

Combining these http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-dura-lar-clear-acetate-alternative/ and printed speech bubbles is indeed likely to be the most cost effective method and easy to redo if the printouts fade if you keep stuff on file.

 

Thank you for the compliment. I really agree that my method suits the era this is supposed to represent (aka 1977 even though it is a 2012 recreation). For more modern art where lettering is added by computers, I really would not be too hot on adding text unless it was really vital to the story and art. Because modern art really supposed to have no lettering and it would give it a make-believe look that it is trying to look vintage. If that would be the case, might as well add colors to the acetate to make it look like the actual published page.

 

[Catwoman_Fan]

 

Not sure what you mean by "inexpensive" but just a couple of days ago I did a DIY project. Here are my steps but you need to know photoshop:

 

 

 

http://www.comicartfans.com/gallerypiece.asp?piece=890565

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to try this too! My pages are $20-200 interiors, so as long as I use those DickBlick productions, I/m comfortable that my art will be safe.

 

Honestly my pages are vintage, but without text, either 90's art from VALIANT, or pages were the balloons went missing. I think the dialog by Shooter is essential to the page. But that's just me.

[jick]

I'm going to try this too! My pages are $20-200 interiors, so as long as I use those DickBlick productions, I/m comfortable that my art will be safe.

 

Honestly my pages are vintage, but without text, either 90's art from VALIANT, or pages were the balloons went missing. I think the dialog by Shooter is essential to the page. But that's just me.

 

Just to make it clear, the word baloons are already part of the art - just not the title heads because the artist was charging a higher premium.

 

Also the yellowish thing near the "F" of Flash is a reflection and not a discoloration or tarnish in the art.

 

If the dialogue is essential to the art, then go for it.

[jick]

To everyone here, I also have my own dilemma and hope you can chime in.

 

What year were overlays stopped?

 

I have a cover to a 2004 TPB, and it looks kinda bare and flat without overlays especially since there is a lot of space above the main character that is really intended for the logos. I am thinking of adding overlays.

 

It is a Jerry Ordway Superman cover.

 

What do you think?

 

Here it is...

 

http://www.comicartfans.com/gallerypiece.asp?piece=892291

 

So with or without overlay?

 

 

 

Looking forward to your feedback.

[Catwoman_Fan]

98-2000 ish?

 

I vote for With. For me, a cover without logos could easily be mistaken for a commission. Not that I have many covers. :'(

 

I was talking with inker Wayne Faucher last month, he was showing me all sorts of covers. With paste ups, with production overlays, and finally - in the nude.

 

I thought the production overlays, that DC produced, aged poorly and looked flimsy. The paste ups looked the best, as long as the glue didn't discolor the page.

 

[jick]

98-2000 ish?

 

I vote for With. For me, a cover without logos could easily be mistaken for a commission. Not that I have many covers. :'(

 

this is actually a good point. This tpb was made 2004 or 2005 so after the pasteup era. I'll do some acetate overlay. Still figuring out how to go about it since I want a more modern and seamless look that will be different from the Flash cover.