Framing without a mat?

[ParamagicFF]

I'm looking into framing some recently acquired commissions and was looking for insight. While the art is special to me, it would not make financial sense for custom framing as their values are low and I just want a simple frame.

 

I'm looking into AmericanFrames to purchase wooden frames with glare free glazing. Because the art goes to the border on some art, I'd really not like to use a mat. I also don't particularly like the look of a mat. Has anyone here done any framing without it? Let me know especially if you've used AmericanFraming products.

 

In case it matters they are all penciled, inked, then watercolor or marker.

 

Thanks for any advice or feedback!

[ciorac]

Yep, I typically frame without a mat. I used to have them framed with matting all the time, but I didn't like the tape they use to secure it to the mat.

 

So, I simply get some black matting material, uncut, and used it as a backing behind the art. Center the art in the frame and secure it with simple pressure of the frame. Looks nice and no tape

[ciorac]

Here is an example

 

[vodou]

So, I simply get some black matting material, uncut, and used it as a backing behind the art. Center the art in the frame and secure it with simple pressure of the frame. Looks nice and no tape

This can be okay but can also go really wrong if moisture gets in and you have the unfortunate experience of "peeling" your art off the glass at some point. More likely than not some of the "art" will remain on the glass even with the original fully separated. I've seen it, it's ugly. However I also did this once myself with a double-sided piece where the original was sandwiched between two pieces of glass and not mats. After ten years of not wanting to know how dumb a choice that was...I finally separated the whole thing last week and everything was fine. Luck of the draw there imo.

 

An alternative is to use frame spacers (so the glass doesn't sit directly on the art) and mylar corners. This way the art is supported on the backmat but not flush to the glass. Adds some cost but boyohboy would I never do that (flush on the glass) with SA large art!!

[vodou]

A further advantage to mat-less is the piece ages evenly. Everything ages over time, unless you look at it for seconds in a darkroom (ha!), might as well enjoy it and not have that weird lighter area all the way around where the mat was. Or the reverse, acid-burn from cheap mat materials (that you probably were overcharged for anyway as being archival by some retail outfit!)

[ParamagicFF]

Any particular spacer products that you all recommend? And how do you size the frame when using a spacer? Is it still exact art size or is there any lip to be accounted for?

[vodou]

Any particular spacer products that you all recommend? And how do you size the frame when using a spacer? Is it still exact art size or is there any lip to be accounted for?

Using spacers is about depth not width or height.

 

 

You'd still want to get a frame larger than the item you are framing imo. Going standard sizes makes everything cheaper too. So if your original is around the typical 11x17, you can look at frames in 14x20 or 16x20. And don't forget the mylar corners (or double-sided tape if you're really cheap and not too concerned with the back of the art).

 

 

[BCarter27]

The plastic spacers ended up being too pricey for one of my recent DIY framing projects. It was tedious, but I cut strips of archival foamcore. Then I floated pieces on a mylar-D backing with stick-on mylar corners.

 

Here's the post-

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=48&Number=8502827&Searchpage=1&Main=116244&Words=&topic=0&Search=true#Post8502827

 

The spacers are worth it. The moisture can really get in there and glue a piece to the glazing.

 

 

[ParamagicFF]

The plastic spacers ended up being too pricey for one of my recent DIY framing projects. It was tedious, but I cut strips of archival foamcore. Then I floated pieces on a mylar-D backing with stick-on mylar corners.

 

Here's the post-

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=48&Number=8502827&Searchpage=1&Main=116244&Words=&topic=0&Search=true#Post8502827

 

The spacers are worth it. The moisture can really get in there and glue a piece to the glazing.

 

 

Those look great as a finished product. I think I want to go with exact size, as I won't be rotating any of these pieces out of their frames. Where did you get the archival foamcore? If its cheap enough I'd get that instead of spacing. I don't love the idea of the art touching the glazing. Also, where did you get the mylar corners?

[suspense39]

Try Blick, you can order online if there's not one near you

[Rune]

This can be okay but can also go really wrong if moisture gets in and you have the unfortunate experience of "peeling" your art off the glass at some point. More likely than not some of the "art" will remain on the glass even with the original fully separated. I've seen it, it's ugly.

 

I think one collector mentioned a similar potential problem when storing art in plastic or even Mylar bags/sleeves for many years - a mat or similar solution may make sure that the art is in contact with nothing but air - and may be an optimal solution for preservation.

 

Still, being bagged seem ok for comic books, maybe inked art is different - I've not seen these art bagging problems verified by other collectors, but have also not thoroughly investigated this potential issue when storing art long-term...

[vodou]

This can be okay but can also go really wrong if moisture gets in and you have the unfortunate experience of "peeling" your art off the glass at some point. More likely than not some of the "art" will remain on the glass even with the original fully separated. I've seen it, it's ugly.

 

I think one collector mentioned a similar potential problem when storing art in plastic or even Mylar bags/sleeves for many years - a mat or similar solution may make sure that the art is in contact with nothing but air - and may be an optimal solution for preservation.

 

Still, being bagged seem ok for comic books, maybe inked art is different - I've not seen these art bagging problems verified by other collectors, but have also not thoroughly investigated this potential issue when storing art long-term...

There will be different results in different environments, both internally and externally. I err on the side of caution unless prohibitively expensive. One simple method to mitigate "getting stuck" is just rifle through your collection regularly, pull the art out of the bags or frames and then reset or replace. Maybe every few months? This way nothing settles much. And it gives you a chance to see if anything untoward is starting too.

[BCarter27]

One simple method to mitigate "getting stuck" is just rifle through your collection regularly, pull the art out of the bags or frames and then reset or replace. Maybe every few months? This way nothing settles much. And it gives you a chance to see if anything untoward is starting too.

 

Definitely. I also store my portfolios vertically, not stacked, to avoid pressure from weight.

 

Here are the mylar corners-

http://www.dickblick.com/products/lineco-archival-mounting-corners/

 

The archival foamcore should be available at a local art supply. They sometimes call it "rag board" as it has a bit more tooth on the paper.

 

Cutting the strips was tricky -- 3 pieces of cardboard as a cutting pad on the floor. Then, a heavy straight edge to run the utility knife down. I used a very straight, smooth cut piece of thick plexi and kneeled on it to keep the whole mess stable. Plexi is nice as a straight edge because you can see your pencil cut line clearly. Tip: keep your blade sharp! Make several light passes and let the blade do the work. If you bear down, you end up with a ragged edge.