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Dry Cleaning Question (Erasure)

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?

 

As long as the mark is not intrusive ( such as over a title etc..) it should be just fine and not get a downgrade. If the pencil mark is in a white area of the cover it can easily be removed with a white art erasure if done properly.

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A white eraser won't leave residue and it won't garner a PLOD.

 

As long as the underlying area is white, lightly erase using a white eraser. Don't dig in... just use a little more than the weight of the eraser. Have patience.

 

However, there still may be writing indentations even if the graphite is removed.

 

Many of the comments in this thread are quite informative. However, one thing about removing pencil writing with a white gum eraser, is the effect that Steve points out above.

 

If the writing is removed, but a visible indentation is left, an element of doubt has been created. Obviously, there has been an attempt to enhance the appearance of the book. Where, I agree, this may not be so severe as to fall into the category of restoration, I do believe there is a stigma to such indentations, and actually prefer the pencil markings myself. Any element of doubt introduced as to the provenance or prior handling of a book will affect the overall grade it is given.

 

I recently received a book that had been cleaned by dry erasure. I discovered this at first because of the whiteness of the white areas compared to the inked areas. Closer inspection revealed the indentations of a light date mark or price on the back cover (either $11.00 or a similar date). The book was an early SA book that although it scanned very nicely, had very light cover surface wear. Even closer inspection revealed other dry erasure areas, visible not due to indents, but to a very light loss of cover gloss.

 

I don't mean to dispute Scott's analysis re loss of cover gloss, but only to add that in cases where there is already a slight ambient loss of cover gloss (i.e., surface wear) even a white gum eraser can cause further harm to the paper fibers. As such, the key here is to proceed with caution.

 

Needless to say, I was quite disappointed with the book, but received a modest adjustment on its price, which I might add is something that is more easily accomplished with Board purchases than with eBay sellers or dealers. grin.gif

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A white eraser won't leave residue and it won't garner a PLOD.

 

As long as the underlying area is white, lightly erase using a white eraser. Don't dig in... just use a little more than the weight of the eraser. Have patience.

 

However, there still may be writing indentations even if the graphite is removed.

 

Many of the comments in this thread are quite informative. However, one thing about removing pencil writing with a white gum eraser, is the effect that Steve points out above.

 

If the writing is removed, but a visible indentation is left, an element of doubt has been created. Obviously, there has been an attempt to enhance the appearance of the book. Where, I agree, this may not be so severe as to fall into the category of restoration, I do believe there is a stigma to such indentations, and actually prefer the pencil markings myself. Any element of doubt introduced as to the provenance or prior handling of a book will affect the overall grade it is given.

 

I recently received a book that had been cleaned by dry erasure. I discovered this at first because of the whiteness of the white areas compared to the inked areas. Closer inspection revealed the indentations of a light date mark or price on the back cover (either $11.00 or a similar date). The book was an early SA book that although it scanned very nicely, had very light cover surface wear. Even closer inspection revealed other dry erasure areas, visible not due to indents, but to a very light loss of cover gloss.

 

I don't mean to dispute Scott's analysis re loss of cover gloss, but only to add that in cases where there is already a slight ambient loss of cover gloss (i.e., surface wear) even a white gum eraser can cause further harm to the paper fibers. As such, the key here is to proceed with caution.

 

Needless to say, I was quite disappointed with the book, but received a modest adjustment on its price, which I might add is something that is more easily accomplished with Board purchases than with eBay sellers or dealers. grin.gif

 

Totally agree, David -- even with a white art eraser, you can lose gloss if you don't do it right, or if you're erasing a part of the cover that is already abraded. thumbsup2.gif

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A white eraser won't leave residue and it won't garner a PLOD.

 

As long as the underlying area is white, lightly erase using a white eraser. Don't dig in... just use a little more than the weight of the eraser. Have patience.

 

However, there still may be writing indentations even if the graphite is removed.

 

Many of the comments in this thread are quite informative. However, one thing about removing pencil writing with a white gum eraser, is the effect that Steve points out above.

 

If the writing is removed, but a visible indentation is left, an element of doubt has been created. Obviously, there has been an attempt to enhance the appearance of the book. Where, I agree, this may not be so severe as to fall into the category of restoration, I do believe there is a stigma to such indentations, and actually prefer the pencil markings myself. Any element of doubt introduced as to the provenance or prior handling of a book will affect the overall grade it is given.

 

I recently received a book that had been cleaned by dry erasure. I discovered this at first because of the whiteness of the white areas compared to the inked areas. Closer inspection revealed the indentations of a light date mark or price on the back cover (either $11.00 or a similar date). The book was an early SA book that although it scanned very nicely, had very light cover surface wear. Even closer inspection revealed other dry erasure areas, visible not due to indents, but to a very light loss of cover gloss.

 

I don't mean to dispute Scott's analysis re loss of cover gloss, but only to add that in cases where there is already a slight ambient loss of cover gloss (i.e., surface wear) even a white gum eraser can cause further harm to the paper fibers. As such, the key here is to proceed with caution.

 

Needless to say, I was quite disappointed with the book, but received a modest adjustment on its price, which I might add is something that is more easily accomplished with Board purchases than with eBay sellers or dealers. grin.gif

 

Totally agree, David -- even with a white art eraser, you can lose gloss if you don't do it right, or if you're erasing a part of the cover that is already abraded. thumbsup2.gif

 

agreed... I've experimented with many " beaters" just to get an idea of what happens.

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can your book garner a PLOD if you DO erase slightly in a color area and you notice that it does remove some of the color (lightens it a little?)

 

No. It just gets downgraded for the damage.

 

thanks, Scott. This is exactly what I needed to know.

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It's best not to use any eraser.

 

If you feel you must erase some pencil, there are inexpensive cleaners like this document cleaning pad that will not remove the gloss or damage the surface. It removes pencil from white areas and even some color areas without damaging the paper.

 

I would recommend that if you use it on a white area of a cover that is surrounded by dark colors, mask the area you do not want to clean with sheets of paper to avoid affecting the area that does not need cleaning.

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It's best not to use any eraser.

 

If you feel you must erase some pencil, there are inexpensive cleaners like this document cleaning pad that will not remove the gloss or damage the surface. It removes pencil from white areas and even some color areas without damaging the paper.

 

I would recommend that if you use it on a white area of a cover that is surrounded by dark colors, mask the area you do not want to clean with sheets of paper to avoid affecting the area that does not need cleaning.

 

The white art erasers are fine when used properly. The document cleaning pad's powder s actually the same stuff as the erasers, just finely powdered.

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It's best not to use any eraser.

 

If you feel you must erase some pencil, there are inexpensive cleaners like this document cleaning pad that will not remove the gloss or damage the surface. It removes pencil from white areas and even some color areas without damaging the paper.

 

I would recommend that if you use it on a white area of a cover that is surrounded by dark colors, mask the area you do not want to clean with sheets of paper to avoid affecting the area that does not need cleaning.

 

The white art erasers are fine when used properly. The document cleaning pad's powder s actually the same stuff as the erasers, just finely powdered.

 

And actually, can be quite abrasive if used on inked areas. I have tried the pads and powders. Their use has been relegated to cleaning my desk surface before I sit down to inspect and grade books. They work very well at removing any oils from desk and smooth surfaces. These were initially designed for that purpose.

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?

 

 

WonderBread would remove it in no time with zero effect on grade or gloss...if done properly... wink.gif

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?

 

 

WonderBread would remove it in no time with zero effect on grade or gloss...if done properly... wink.gif

 

and you still have appetizers for the in-laws afterwards... thumbsup2.gif

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?

 

 

WonderBread would remove it in no time with zero effect on grade or gloss...if done properly... wink.gif

 

and you still have appetizers for the in-laws afterwards... thumbsup2.gif

 

Or a nice little snack for my dog... grin.gif

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?

 

 

WonderBread would remove it in no time with zero effect on grade or gloss...if done properly... wink.gif

 

and you still have appetizers for the in-laws afterwards... thumbsup2.gif

 

Or a nice little snack for my dog... grin.gif

 

dog.. in-laws.. the line is blurred... confused-smiley-013.gif

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It's best not to use any eraser.

 

If you feel you must erase some pencil, there are inexpensive cleaners like this document cleaning pad that will not remove the gloss or damage the surface. It removes pencil from white areas and even some color areas without damaging the paper.

 

I would recommend that if you use it on a white area of a cover that is surrounded by dark colors, mask the area you do not want to clean with sheets of paper to avoid affecting the area that does not need cleaning.

 

The white art erasers are fine when used properly. The document cleaning pad's powder s actually the same stuff as the erasers, just finely powdered.

 

And actually, can be quite abrasive if used on inked areas. I have tried the pads and powders. Their use has been relegated to cleaning my desk surface before I sit down to inspect and grade books. They work very well at removing any oils from desk and smooth surfaces. These were initially designed for that purpose.

 

I agree anything used on inked areas can remove what you want left behind. The INK. But it also depends on the book itself and how soiled it is. If a book has such a large amount of dirt over the entire surface I don't think lightly using a crumb bag will remove anything but the topmost layer of dirt brightening it up a bit. But as soon as one starts to rub too hard...well bad things happen. From my experience different books behave differently since the dirt/soiling is made up of different gunk and the age condition of the book all lend to reacting differently when being erased.

 

 

Ze-

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I'm not touching mine. I'll screw it up. Wonderbread. Eraser. Something will happen and Deathlok with come down and punch me in the head for messing up one of his prized comics. then he would buy it for $5.

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I'm not touching mine. I'll screw it up. Wonderbread. Eraser. Something will happen and Deathlok with come down and punch me in the head for messing up one of his prized comics. then he would buy it for $5.

 

Yeah.. probably not a good idea to tamper with it if you already sold it to a forum member... insane.gif

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I have AT 25 I'm sending in to get signed by Rich Buckler. It has 1" light pencil line on the bottom on the back cover. No imprint. But I didn't want to take any chances. Does CGC still knock down for the pencil mark?
sumo.gif
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Just noticed my thread got some sort of CPR and decided to share my personal result:

 

Well, I ultimately erased the mark on the back of my book with no issue. There's not a visible indentation (that I can see anyway) and I'm happy with the result as the back of the book no longer bothers me. I just made a note and stuck it in with the book so if I ever sell it I'll make note of it to a buyer. That said, I sincerely doubt I'll ever sell the book so no love lost.

 

Ultimately, you do have to be careful. This was perfect-- very light pencil in a white area. I erased VERY lightly and no gloss was lost.

 

I forgot I was going to try scanning the book so I have no scan, but I will say that if done properly for the right reasons, this seems to be an okay thing to do.

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Well, I ultimately erased the mark on the back of my book with no issue. There's not a visible indentation (that I can see anyway) and I'm happy with the result as the back of the book no longer bothers me.

 

Got scans?

 

Not to be flippant but there was a final sentence in my post that answers your question perfectly. poke2.gif

 

That said, I guess I could scan the back of the book now, but I think that would be fairly useless given I didn't think to do a "before" scan. I can do it if anyone really thinks that'll be helpful somehow.

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