uchiha101

I'm glad I made it happen but it's interesting you wanted to use reverse psychology. I do need more hours and it's something I realize believe me. No reverse psychology intended - I really would miss this thread. The longevity and scope of this thread is staggering when you look back at it all. I've seen better threads fade into oblivion after only a week but yours just seem to have a life of its own. For those about to rock - we salute you. Thanks I guess it's something people can't help but to keep reading.

Is that what he has? I recall him saying that he said they've never been able to figure out exactly what his disability was. Correct as of right now they don't know what it is either.

In the real world everything is still the same So still only 20 some odd hours per week making minimum wage? Have you done any other serious job hunting and/or skill building? Yes I'm doing but hunting but no skill building yet. What I'm looking for is a job with more hours. What about getting a 2nd part time job? McDonalds is always hiring Applying there tomorrow

It's classified as a disability in Canada but that's not what I have. According to my psychological profile I have a learning disability but further testing would need to be done to know what it is.

No I will brag about comics that you "pros" say I can't sell because to me that means I've seen something you haven't. Also I really don't spend much time at all on my comics after I list I just wait till someone asks me a questions or makes a offer. I've always kind of wondered why you rarely ask for advice on specific books here before you buy them. I think I understand it now...you think if you ask you will be revealing "secret" information that the "pros" here would jump all over and steal your market away. Don't worry, I doubt anyone here will be jumping on the "pink variant" or restored, mid grade semi key at GPA high market anytime soon bro. No it's about making a profit and comics you say are a waste of time and won't make money. I hope you make a profit, because that would be better than what you do 80% of the time. I just think you could use your money better on finding sure things as opposed to gambles that have minimal return. But hey, I'm not even a "pro" and you seem to have it all figured out Agreed the majority of my comics I've bought have been losses.

You're not kidding! The only difference between a trip to the state fair and reading Gabes posts is when I'm reading his posts there's no place to buy a corn dog. Maybe I should start selling them

I'm glad I made it happen but it's interesting you wanted to use reverse psychology. I do need more hours and it's something I realize believe me.

In the real world everything is still the same So still only 20 some odd hours per week making minimum wage? Have you done any other serious job hunting and/or skill building? Yes I'm doing but hunting but no skill building yet. What I'm looking for is a job with more hours.

These are the harambe variant comics http://www.ebay.com/itm/322294005404?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm not a big fan of these manufactured "rarities". How long do you plan on holding these before you flip them? As soon as I get them

Isn't this what you think of all the books you buy? You think you know something about a book and then jump at making the purchase and then it's only afterwards that you realize you got your information wrong or that your "emotions" got the better of you. Yes but for the last couple of purchases I've made they haven't been fueled by emotions which I know you'll disagree about. The DV3 was bad timing because I didn't use my emotions for that one.

Gabe, I notice you haven't replied to this post. How come? I think we're all curious about this. I hope you still have your job, because I've come to a conclusion about you. Either you are incapable of grasping basic concepts, or you simply choose not to. Either way, the result is the same. Forget about what you want to do, because where you're at is about as high as your likely to get. Why? Let's take hygiene as an example of your inability to grasp a concept. Hygiene consists of showering every day, brushing your teeth, combing your hair and keeping it trimmed, clipping your fingernails and wearing clean, presentable clothes. Your response to this is "I'm working on it". To quote Yoda, you either do it or don't do it. There is no try. If you can't or won't grasp even this most basic concept at 23 years old, you're likely not going to. Because of this, unless someone is looking to fill the position of Vice-President of Doofusry, I'd say your best hope is to climb the dishwasher ladder of success. I was sleeping and I've said that I've gotten better with my hygiene over the past month. I don't mess things up on purpose and I don't know how many times I've said this but I know it's been a lot. My learning disability makes is hard for me to learn even basic concepts that you take for granted.

These are the harambe variant comics http://www.ebay.com/itm/322294005404?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I knew that from the time I bought this comic.

The Greater Fool Theory. I think that theory only applies if you can find one. In the OPs case, it's highly unlikely. For which comic? In general. I never heard of that series. Would that be a hype book I can pay GPA high for and then get really upset when people tell me it was yet another in a long line of mistakes? Can I then say I am learning and then later in the week rinse and repeat? I've been thinking this way my whole life with emotions so forgive me if I don't magically change overnight. Also you want to talk about the DV 3? Ok I made a mistake I bought it on hype when my friend told me to buy it three days earlier. My ASM 101 I don't view as a mistake but my mistake was over-grading it and thinking I can more money then I actually will. My bat 189 isn't a mistake a all in my eyes but you see it that way because it's a restored comic and I could have done better by buying a graded copy. So don't worry when I sell them I'll post the results here I'll promise you that. I'm not worried, it's not my money. No but it is you saying it's a mistake so I'll show you it wasn't Hey, be fair. Everyone here thinks it's a mistake. Then I'll prove it to everyone on the journal here. Like with the DV3? And yes, I'm going to keep bringing this up as an example of you defending a poor choice as if your life depended on it. Remember that same feeling you had when you realized you were wrong, because you will have that same feeling again with those other two clunkers. DV3 was a bad purchase because of timing but it's not something I regret. So what will you do when I sell the asm 101 and bat 189 for a profit? Are you going to crow about your "win" if you sell them for a $30 profit 4 months from now? It fits his "business model" of buying comics and selling them for a profit. I remember when I adopted that business model. My previous business model had been "buy high, sell low"...what a difference selling for a profit makes Har Har but you still didn't answer my question. What will you do if I sell these comics for a profit? We will say you got lucky on finding someone to overpay for your garbage books. But it's moot because you won't sell them for profit. And no one here is worried. We really don't care. Is that so? You're contradicting yourself, your saying that I will sell them yet in the next sentence you say I won't so which is it? This is not difficult. I said IF you somehow manage to sell them at the prices you want you will be lucky in finding a sucker. The books you bought are not rare, not important, have poor visual appeal, and are overpriced. If you somehow manage to sell them, (which once again I don't think you will) it won't be because you made a good investment (you did not), or that you are a skilled salesman (you are not), it will be because you found someone with no knowledge. HOWEVER, and I emphasize this, I do not believe you will actually find a buyer for the books at the price you want because most people don't buy overpriced undesirable books with little importance or visual appeal. Stop defending your poor choices and listen to the "pros" that you seem to love insulting. You know, the men and women who have actually had success buying and selling books rather than just wracking up debt based on very poor choices. No that's my point. That fact that you have so much experience means you don't even both with certain comics. I don't have anywhere near as much experience as you but I know this comics will sell for a profit though you guys scoff at it.

If Gabe buys the Bats 189, he stands to lose about $200-$350. The books is a /would get a cgc 8.5 IMO as is, PLOD. The resto is listed as " light color touch". It will cost what...$40 to have the CT removed.I don't see any point in pressing it, looks like it won't het a bump from dry cleaning/pressing.More than likely it has already been DCP'd-it looks very vlean and I'd say it's already been DCP'd. So, let's put CT removal, shipping to/from CGC and slabbing costs at $100. With minor CT, post removal...expect anywhere from a 7.0 to an 8.0, depends on how "minor" the CT is. GPA for blue is $359 in 8.0, $315 at 7.5 and $270 in 7.0. Best case scenario, it is a tiny, single spot of CT and the book subsequently gets an 8.0....last sale at $359 in 8.0 , so ....he gets $359 or so.The book isn't tied into any upcoming movies, no reason to think it will trend upwards or sell quickly at $359. Call it $300, after fees. At the best case scenario, he loses $200, that is if it gets an 8.0. With CT on a datk cover, after it is scsped off, if there is more than a tiny smidge, it stands out like Hell. 2 tiny s apes, it's a 7.0 maybe 7.5. It could have as much as 2-3 larger scrapes after the CT is removed.. could come back as low as a 6.0. This is a prime reason how/why if you dot know how to grade, you should not try to be a flipper/dealer. And another reason why any dealer should know how to detect resto, be capable of removing CT, and be capable of dry cleaning& pressing books.A dealer should also have a gradp on the nature of the comic market. Gabe is at a loss on all of the qualities needed to buy/sell books. I'm not as a loss I don't know why you keep counting it as such. You also seem to think that every dealer should know how to detect resto,be able to remove it and be capable of dry pressing and cleaning books. So tell apart from those select few tell me which dealers can do that. No I'm not thinking of removing the color touch either. Every competent (succesful) dealer I know of can detect amateur and pro resto, 95% of the time.They also know how to grade, this is key when figuring projected returns on subbed books. Every competent dealer also can either remove resto like CT and can dry clean & press their own books before subbing them. I press damn near every book that I sub, otherwise I'd be looking at adding on more time to wait for a presser to do the work, and then pay their pressing fees. If you can't fo that, you have to have the free capital to cover pressing fees and grading fees, and the cost of the books you buy, and be able to wait a minimum of 2 months to have the graded books in hand to even have a chance at recouping the money you fronted....that being the cost of the books, pressing and grading fees. The succesful dealers who don't press their own books have a presser lined up who does good work without a long lag time, and they pay good money for that service.I do not have the capital to pay pressing fees, and rhen have the free capital to allow amy money to be tied up in the pressers' hands for a month, while being able to buy more books and cover CGC fees. I learned this quickly, so I invested my time into learning how to dry clean and press.That is what someone in your position would need to do, if you really were to become succesful as a dealerIf you can't grade books after 2 years,the odds of you having the requisite patience and understanding of paper mechanics that is needed to learn how to dry clean and press....are very low. Those other dealers definitely can detect resto themselves, and know how to grade, they wouldn't have gotten to where they are if they couldn't do both of those things.They can afford to have to have the money and time invested in books they bought, which is really the mark of a succesful dealer. My problem is that I buy a lot of books and have a hard time with allocating enough of my time to pressing books.But, I can do the work as it is needed.If I really cracked down and spent my free time dry cleaning/pressing books that I buy, as I should, I'd be a lot more succesful as a dealer. At least I can diagnose my problem and I can do what I need to do. You ate completely oblivious to your shortcomings, of what you have many, and show no sign of being able to make any progress whatsoever. Gabe: Think about those 2 posts I made above, and how what I said is applicable to your situation. I know nothing about how to press comics, I have pressers that I use and I have amateur skills at detecting restoration. I did once consider buy I pressing machine. You completely missed the entire point of my post. I was not suggesting that you buy a press. I know your point was that I should learn how to do everything so that I can save time and money and a press is something to consider along with learning how to use it.

That's not true that advice is different from the advice you give here.

No I will brag about comics that you "pros" say I can't sell because to me that means I've seen something you haven't. Also I really don't spend much time at all on my comics after I list I just wait till someone asks me a questions or makes a offer. I've always kind of wondered why you rarely ask for advice on specific books here before you buy them. I think I understand it now...you think if you ask you will be revealing "secret" information that the "pros" here would jump all over and steal your market away. Don't worry, I doubt anyone here will be jumping on the "pink variant" or restored, mid grade semi key at GPA high market anytime soon bro. No it's about making a profit and comics you say are a waste of time and won't make money.

In the real world everything is still the same

If Gabe buys the Bats 189, he stands to lose about $200-$350. The books is a /would get a cgc 8.5 IMO as is, PLOD. The resto is listed as " light color touch". It will cost what...$40 to have the CT removed.I don't see any point in pressing it, looks like it won't het a bump from dry cleaning/pressing.More than likely it has already been DCP'd-it looks very vlean and I'd say it's already been DCP'd. So, let's put CT removal, shipping to/from CGC and slabbing costs at $100. With minor CT, post removal...expect anywhere from a 7.0 to an 8.0, depends on how "minor" the CT is. GPA for blue is $359 in 8.0, $315 at 7.5 and $270 in 7.0. Best case scenario, it is a tiny, single spot of CT and the book subsequently gets an 8.0....last sale at $359 in 8.0 , so ....he gets $359 or so.The book isn't tied into any upcoming movies, no reason to think it will trend upwards or sell quickly at $359. Call it $300, after fees. At the best case scenario, he loses $200, that is if it gets an 8.0. With CT on a datk cover, after it is scsped off, if there is more than a tiny smidge, it stands out like Hell. 2 tiny s apes, it's a 7.0 maybe 7.5. It could have as much as 2-3 larger scrapes after the CT is removed.. could come back as low as a 6.0. This is a prime reason how/why if you dot know how to grade, you should not try to be a flipper/dealer. And another reason why any dealer should know how to detect resto, be capable of removing CT, and be capable of dry cleaning& pressing books.A dealer should also have a gradp on the nature of the comic market. Gabe is at a loss on all of the qualities needed to buy/sell books. I'm not as a loss I don't know why you keep counting it as such. You also seem to think that every dealer should know how to detect resto,be able to remove it and be capable of dry pressing and cleaning books. So tell apart from those select few tell me which dealers can do that. No I'm not thinking of removing the color touch either. Every competent (succesful) dealer I know of can detect amateur and pro resto, 95% of the time.They also know how to grade, this is key when figuring projected returns on subbed books. Every competent dealer also can either remove resto like CT and can dry clean & press their own books before subbing them. I press damn near every book that I sub, otherwise I'd be looking at adding on more time to wait for a presser to do the work, and then pay their pressing fees. If you can't fo that, you have to have the free capital to cover pressing fees and grading fees, and the cost of the books you buy, and be able to wait a minimum of 2 months to have the graded books in hand to even have a chance at recouping the money you fronted....that being the cost of the books, pressing and grading fees. The succesful dealers who don't press their own books have a presser lined up who does good work without a long lag time, and they pay good money for that service.I do not have the capital to pay pressing fees, and rhen have the free capital to allow amy money to be tied up in the pressers' hands for a month, while being able to buy more books and cover CGC fees. I learned this quickly, so I invested my time into learning how to dry clean and press.That is what someone in your position would need to do, if you really were to become succesful as a dealerIf you can't grade books after 2 years,the odds of you having the requisite patience and understanding of paper mechanics that is needed to learn how to dry clean and press....are very low. Those other dealers definitely can detect resto themselves, and know how to grade, they wouldn't have gotten to where they are if they couldn't do both of those things.They can afford to have to have the money and time invested in books they bought, which is really the mark of a succesful dealer. My problem is that I buy a lot of books and have a hard time with allocating enough of my time to pressing books.But, I can do the work as it is needed.If I really cracked down and spent my free time dry cleaning/pressing books that I buy, as I should, I'd be a lot more succesful as a dealer. At least I can diagnose my problem and I can do what I need to do. You ate completely oblivious to your shortcomings, of what you have many, and show no sign of being able to make any progress whatsoever. Gabe: Think about those 2 posts I made above, and how what I said is applicable to your situation. I know nothing about how to press comics, I have pressers that I use and I have amateur skills at detecting restoration. I did once consider buy I pressing machine. If you don't know how to use a pair of nail clippers then you need to definitely stay away from the press. I wouldn't consider your restoration skills as amateur since couldn't tell the difference between color touch up and a coloring book. I would say your skills are idiotic. Well I was told that marker or crayon on a comic book always counts as amateur since it wasn't done by a professional.

If Gabe buys the Bats 189, he stands to lose about $200-$350. The books is a /would get a cgc 8.5 IMO as is, PLOD. The resto is listed as " light color touch". It will cost what...$40 to have the CT removed.I don't see any point in pressing it, looks like it won't het a bump from dry cleaning/pressing.More than likely it has already been DCP'd-it looks very vlean and I'd say it's already been DCP'd. So, let's put CT removal, shipping to/from CGC and slabbing costs at $100. With minor CT, post removal...expect anywhere from a 7.0 to an 8.0, depends on how "minor" the CT is. GPA for blue is $359 in 8.0, $315 at 7.5 and $270 in 7.0. Best case scenario, it is a tiny, single spot of CT and the book subsequently gets an 8.0....last sale at $359 in 8.0 , so ....he gets $359 or so.The book isn't tied into any upcoming movies, no reason to think it will trend upwards or sell quickly at $359. Call it $300, after fees. At the best case scenario, he loses $200, that is if it gets an 8.0. With CT on a datk cover, after it is scsped off, if there is more than a tiny smidge, it stands out like Hell. 2 tiny s apes, it's a 7.0 maybe 7.5. It could have as much as 2-3 larger scrapes after the CT is removed.. could come back as low as a 6.0. This is a prime reason how/why if you dot know how to grade, you should not try to be a flipper/dealer. And another reason why any dealer should know how to detect resto, be capable of removing CT, and be capable of dry cleaning& pressing books.A dealer should also have a gradp on the nature of the comic market. Gabe is at a loss on all of the qualities needed to buy/sell books. I'm not as a loss I don't know why you keep counting it as such. You also seem to think that every dealer should know how to detect resto,be able to remove it and be capable of dry pressing and cleaning books. So tell apart from those select few tell me which dealers can do that. No I'm not thinking of removing the color touch either. Every competent (succesful) dealer I know of can detect amateur and pro resto, 95% of the time.They also know how to grade, this is key when figuring projected returns on subbed books. Every competent dealer also can either remove resto like CT and can dry clean & press their own books before subbing them. I press damn near every book that I sub, otherwise I'd be looking at adding on more time to wait for a presser to do the work, and then pay their pressing fees. If you can't fo that, you have to have the free capital to cover pressing fees and grading fees, and the cost of the books you buy, and be able to wait a minimum of 2 months to have the graded books in hand to even have a chance at recouping the money you fronted....that being the cost of the books, pressing and grading fees. The succesful dealers who don't press their own books have a presser lined up who does good work without a long lag time, and they pay good money for that service.I do not have the capital to pay pressing fees, and rhen have the free capital to allow amy money to be tied up in the pressers' hands for a month, while being able to buy more books and cover CGC fees. I learned this quickly, so I invested my time into learning how to dry clean and press.That is what someone in your position would need to do, if you really were to become succesful as a dealerIf you can't grade books after 2 years,the odds of you having the requisite patience and understanding of paper mechanics that is needed to learn how to dry clean and press....are very low. Those other dealers definitely can detect resto themselves, and know how to grade, they wouldn't have gotten to where they are if they couldn't do both of those things.They can afford to have to have the money and time invested in books they bought, which is really the mark of a succesful dealer. My problem is that I buy a lot of books and have a hard time with allocating enough of my time to pressing books.But, I can do the work as it is needed.If I really cracked down and spent my free time dry cleaning/pressing books that I buy, as I should, I'd be a lot more succesful as a dealer. At least I can diagnose my problem and I can do what I need to do. You ate completely oblivious to your shortcomings, of what you have many, and show no sign of being able to make any progress whatsoever. Gabe: Think about those 2 posts I made above, and how what I said is applicable to your situation. I know nothing about how to press comics, I have pressers that I use and I have amateur skills at detecting restoration. I did once consider buy I pressing machine. Hell, at this point why not??? I don't know how to use one and I would have to see how much electricity they take.

If Gabe buys the Bats 189, he stands to lose about $200-$350. The books is a /would get a cgc 8.5 IMO as is, PLOD. The resto is listed as " light color touch". It will cost what...$40 to have the CT removed.I don't see any point in pressing it, looks like it won't het a bump from dry cleaning/pressing.More than likely it has already been DCP'd-it looks very vlean and I'd say it's already been DCP'd. So, let's put CT removal, shipping to/from CGC and slabbing costs at $100. With minor CT, post removal...expect anywhere from a 7.0 to an 8.0, depends on how "minor" the CT is. GPA for blue is $359 in 8.0, $315 at 7.5 and $270 in 7.0. Best case scenario, it is a tiny, single spot of CT and the book subsequently gets an 8.0....last sale at $359 in 8.0 , so ....he gets $359 or so.The book isn't tied into any upcoming movies, no reason to think it will trend upwards or sell quickly at $359. Call it $300, after fees. At the best case scenario, he loses $200, that is if it gets an 8.0. With CT on a datk cover, after it is scsped off, if there is more than a tiny smidge, it stands out like Hell. 2 tiny s apes, it's a 7.0 maybe 7.5. It could have as much as 2-3 larger scrapes after the CT is removed.. could come back as low as a 6.0. This is a prime reason how/why if you dot know how to grade, you should not try to be a flipper/dealer. And another reason why any dealer should know how to detect resto, be capable of removing CT, and be capable of dry cleaning& pressing books.A dealer should also have a gradp on the nature of the comic market. Gabe is at a loss on all of the qualities needed to buy/sell books. I'm not as a loss I don't know why you keep counting it as such. You also seem to think that every dealer should know how to detect resto,be able to remove it and be capable of dry pressing and cleaning books. So tell apart from those select few tell me which dealers can do that. No I'm not thinking of removing the color touch either. Every competent (succesful) dealer I know of can detect amateur and pro resto, 95% of the time.They also know how to grade, this is key when figuring projected returns on subbed books. Every competent dealer also can either remove resto like CT and can dry clean & press their own books before subbing them. I press damn near every book that I sub, otherwise I'd be looking at adding on more time to wait for a presser to do the work, and then pay their pressing fees. If you can't fo that, you have to have the free capital to cover pressing fees and grading fees, and the cost of the books you buy, and be able to wait a minimum of 2 months to have the graded books in hand to even have a chance at recouping the money you fronted....that being the cost of the books, pressing and grading fees. The succesful dealers who don't press their own books have a presser lined up who does good work without a long lag time, and they pay good money for that service.I do not have the capital to pay pressing fees, and rhen have the free capital to allow amy money to be tied up in the pressers' hands for a month, while being able to buy more books and cover CGC fees. I learned this quickly, so I invested my time into learning how to dry clean and press.That is what someone in your position would need to do, if you really were to become succesful as a dealerIf you can't grade books after 2 years,the odds of you having the requisite patience and understanding of paper mechanics that is needed to learn how to dry clean and press....are very low. Those other dealers definitely can detect resto themselves, and know how to grade, they wouldn't have gotten to where they are if they couldn't do both of those things.They can afford to have to have the money and time invested in books they bought, which is really the mark of a succesful dealer. My problem is that I buy a lot of books and have a hard time with allocating enough of my time to pressing books.But, I can do the work as it is needed.If I really cracked down and spent my free time dry cleaning/pressing books that I buy, as I should, I'd be a lot more succesful as a dealer. At least I can diagnose my problem and I can do what I need to do. You ate completely oblivious to your shortcomings, of what you have many, and show no sign of being able to make any progress whatsoever. Gabe: Think about those 2 posts I made above, and how what I said is applicable to your situation. I know nothing about how to press comics, I have pressers that I use and I have amateur skills at detecting restoration. I did once consider buy I pressing machine.

Can we get a weekly credit card update on the first post? I haven't used my credit card

I suppose but there's also people that want a cheaper copy that's not a reprint but not full price as the universal label. But how much cheaper are we talking about? Unrestored 6.0 copies -- which are not going to look substantially worse than the restored 7.0, if at all -- have seen the two most recent GPA-recorded sales come in at $180-190. A buyer who is looking to buy graded books in the first place -- in theory, the more educated buyer -- is going to pay for those before dropping more than that on a 7.0 restored. The less educated buyer -- the one you'll be looking for who wants an "original" and not a reprint, is more likely going to be spending less on an unrestored copy anyway, not wanting to spend the extra premium that a graded copy often commands to begin with. For a perfect example, there's a Fine 6.0 graded copy on Worldwide right now -- at $130. I'll stand by the fact that you'll need someone making an impulse buy without wanting to even shop around first to pull the trigger on that #189. Not saying it won't happen, but I wouldn't want to count on that happening quickly, if at all. Going by what they see on ebay is a copy for 375 obo that's a 7.0 and the other copy at 420 that's also a 7.0 There's also a copy that's raw at 7.5 which is at 410 BIN There's a 7.5 universal that ends soon which is at 215 right now but I know that's there's enough demand for this comic that's why I bought it and if it will be the cheapest in that grade range people will most likely make offers on mine. As other people have already pointed out, "asking prices" and "realized sold prices" are two entirely different things. As I've said, I'm a serious buyer for a Batman #189. Looking at a raw 7.5 listed at $410 isn't going to make me suddenly want to buy your copy, it's going to make me shake my head and wait for a properly priced copy. I realize that sold prices and listing prices are two different things but in this case what's listed will give me the advantage and my copy will be the cheapest by comparison and I know restored isn't everyone's cup of tea but there is a market for it.

No I will brag about comics that you "pros" say I can't sell because to me that means I've seen something you haven't. Also I really don't spend much time at all on my comics after I list I just wait till someone asks me a questions or makes a offer.

I suppose but there's also people that want a cheaper copy that's not a reprint but not full price as the universal label. But how much cheaper are we talking about? Unrestored 6.0 copies -- which are not going to look substantially worse than the restored 7.0, if at all -- have seen the two most recent GPA-recorded sales come in at $180-190. A buyer who is looking to buy graded books in the first place -- in theory, the more educated buyer -- is going to pay for those before dropping more than that on a 7.0 restored. The less educated buyer -- the one you'll be looking for who wants an "original" and not a reprint, is more likely going to be spending less on an unrestored copy anyway, not wanting to spend the extra premium that a graded copy often commands to begin with. For a perfect example, there's a Fine 6.0 graded copy on Worldwide right now -- at $130. I'll stand by the fact that you'll need someone making an impulse buy without wanting to even shop around first to pull the trigger on that #189. Not saying it won't happen, but I wouldn't want to count on that happening quickly, if at all. Going by what they see on ebay is a copy for 375 obo that's a 7.0 and the other copy at 420 that's also a 7.0 There's also a copy that's raw at 7.5 which is at 410 BIN There's a 7.5 universal that ends soon which is at 215 right now but I know that's there's enough demand for this comic that's why I bought it and if it will be the cheapest in that grade range people will most likely make offers on mine.