VintageComics

Pedigree? Brown Mountain. brown and green if someone is curious (thumbs u Nope I liked talking about fish better. I obviously didn't miss much these last two weeks. The Heritage thread is full of gold...at least that's what GAtor's dog is pooping.

Pedigree? Brown Mountain. brown and green if someone is curious (thumbs u Nope I liked talking about fish better.

I sold a 7.0 on eBay at auction for over $6K just recently. If you're filter81, then that was me. Nice to meet ya. Close. It was my book, Adam (filter81) auctioned it off for me. So you're the winning bidder? Congrats.

I sold a 7.0 on eBay at auction for over $6K just recently.

Heritage did relatively poorly across the board today, it seems. There's some talk in the GA forum of a weak auction as well. Likely just a matter of timing more than anything else. After Christmas, before taxes, etc. I believe the auction also started an hour earlier than expected, which would also hurt sales.

Always wondered why you passed on those nice AF15s. Because he's a smart investor. Right Tim?

That is the entire board and the vast majority of participants. I don't understand how calling out a seller for being a seller constitutes any of that. Unless of course you were directing that at GOT. This was directed at no one, rather a general commentary on the SS community. I personally believe that their butthurt threshold is lower then the general class of comic nerd. Call it passion, call it ferver, call it obsession, call it paranoia, call it excess, call it what you will, the intensity for the good and the bad is amplified. Or just call it youth.

I've bought one of these covers. Spectacular.

Is it just me or do you all see a lot of "Frank Miller" in this stuff - meaning, Frank Miller got some of his inspiration from this stuff. He did have a fondness for Japanese culture.

Awesome! So Ditko was in London?!?!

Yup. Same guy.

EDIT: I've having trouble finding it on some sites. The Mile High online submission form seems to be working. That last link should do it for you. Comic dealers are not always the best website designers.

Scroll down this page. You can either submit in hand through a dealer or online through a dealer's site. They will have a CGC logo you click on which will give you a CGC online form.

She's right about that. It runs deep. Even here in North America, parents still teach their kids to dislike "the other side" unfortunately.

Don't take people's silence as disapproval. It's more like astonishment. This thread is awesome and will go down in history as one of this boards greatest reads. (thumbs u

Amazing read. It goes without saying what a useless tragedy the entire war was. I remember one of my co-worker friends (he is Czech) shouting at me when it all started...he kept repeating "I can't believe they're dropping bombs on Europe again!" as he shook his head in disbelief. I've heard some horror stories from family members during the time of the fighting and I happened to visit the country shortly after it stopped. It was surreal to walk around and see people going about their daily lives among all the rubble that just never seemed to get cleaned up.

Thanks Dan. I was sure the JIM would go 9.2 as well. Enjoy 'em!

I'm with you. I've been following along and still far from knowing what might be the best replacement for my defunct scanner. Some of the scanners prominently mentioned here were introduced years ago and are no longer in production. Makes me wonder whether I would be opening myself up to compatibility problems, particularly since I now use a Mac. Hado and anyone skimming this thread for info: Most scanners produced in the past 5 years or newer use LED as a source for lighting. LED isn't suited to handle the job of capturing a scan of a comic suspended between a plastic holder and inner well. BestBuy is LED heaven and will require at minimum a second trip to return your scanner, and possibly a punch in the face if they know you actually knew about this thread and still went ahead and bought a scanner from them. Legal scanners are usually special order, and you need a platen spec that has the physical dimensions of a legal size spec, not a scanner that simulates a legal size scan through virtual means. Long and short, you will need to make a list of the scanners make/models that have been shown in this thread, and hit craigslist or kijiji searching those specific makes/models. The reason why these legal size makes and models work with plastic-fat CGC slabs is because they used flourescent lighting, which produces a brighter image during capture. Scanners using flourescent lighting means they will most likely be older models, but I would stick with models that at least use USB to allow compatibility with more current operating systems and computing hardware. Parallel/SCSI interfaces will force a scanning station spec that will require the use of older PC hardware so steer clear of these. Finally, I was successful in finding my scanner by buying it through a business equipment retailer that refurbishes old office equipment. The nice thing about buying it using this method is that the equipment can be tested right in the store, and usually comes with a 30-day money back guarantee. The other thing I noticed is that the HP scanner model I bought/use has a decent track record as far as consumer reliability and IMHO exceeds the requirements when it comes to scanning CGC slabs. I'll add that you generally get what you pay for unless you happen to come across a bargain. Those huge office size scanner will probably have the best results but we're trying to get bang for the buck. In my experience (and this is not a sweeping endorsement for all models from these companies but of all the ones that I've used) Epson and HP make good scans. I found Epson (at my local Kinkos) to be exceptionally deep and bright although they did tend to exaggerate any foxing or shadows. I've never used a Microtek but guys on here seem to have terrific results with them.

So what's the trick? I've tried several different slabs and they all have the same glares in almost the same places. I've also tried putting something under different edges of the slab to angle it on the glass. I can't get rid of the glare. The trick is all about the inner well. The outer holder provides a flat surface so the light passes right through it cleanly. Even the slightest bend in the plastic creates a refraction and that "rainbow" glare. That's why pressing on the slab (and straightening out the inner well) helps eliminate it. If the inner well is not straight it's going to create that glare. I find a lack of straightness on the inner well is more common on newly graded books than it was on older ones.

If you ask as many questions as you have posts here he might have good reason too.

Push on the back of the slab while scanning. Is that the equivalent of “Sit on it, Potsie!”? A little less pressure than Potsies fat . No luck. It's the inner well causing the reflection. This book is in one of those supder-duper thick slabs, anyway. There's no flex. Push harder. Dice might fart. That sounds like about the right amount of pressure. Je suis speaking from experience.

Push on the back of the slab while scanning. Is that the equivalent of “Sit on it, Potsie!”? A little less pressure than Potsies fat . No luck. It's the inner well causing the reflection. This book is in one of those supder-duper thick slabs, anyway. There's no flex. Push harder. Dice might fart.

Push on the back of the slab while scanning. Is that the equivalent of “Sit on it, Potsie!”? A little less pressure than Potsies fat . No luck. It's the inner well causing the reflection. This book is in one of those supder-duper thick slabs, anyway. There's no flex. On the thicker slabs the refraction happens because there is more room in the slab for the inner well to go wavy. Pressing on it can be a touchy technique but if you apply enough pressure to flex both the area that you are touching AND the area below it (flex it enough to straighten out the warp causing the light refraction iin the slab) it usually helps. Apply the pressure right above where the refraction happens. The other option is to try slipping the slab 180 degrees. Sometimes just the direction of the light approaching the wave in the slab makes a difference. (thumbs u

Hunh. Can't edit it.

I'll add this to the first post in the thread. (thumbs u