marvelmaniac

Color Breaking Creases, Blunted Corners, Water Stains (front and back) and other Staining, Spine Stress/Creases, Rusty/Non Centered Staples. 4.5 VERY GOOD+ (VG): Back to Top Fits the criteria for Very Good but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount. 4.0 VERY GOOD (VG): Back to Top The average used comic book. Cover shows moderate to significant wear, and may be loose but not completely detached. Cover reflectivity is low. Can have moderate creases or dimples. Corners may be blunted. Store stamps, name stamps, arrival dates, initials, etc. have no effect on this grade. Some discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor soiling is allowed. As much as a 1/4" triangle can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" square is also acceptable. Only minor unobtrusive tape and other amateur repair allowed on otherwise high grade copies. Moderate spine roll may be present and/or a 1" spine split. Staples may be discolored. Minor to moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Minor to moderate interior tears may be present. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple.

I only collect books up to about 1975 so there are no variants (except F.F. 110 which was a printing error), with a few exceptions such as ROM Spaceknight which I bought the entire run an issue at a time as they came out. My collecting goal (OCD driven) has always been to complete runs from the beginning to a certain issue cutoff such as issue 200 for ASM, F.F., IH., the cut for X-Men was issue 66, condition for me is not a factor, I have lots of "Well Loved" books. Avengers I stopped at issue 130 and issue 265 for Thor, how I arrived at those numbers...??? Other titles I completed from the beginning to the end of the title such as TOS and TTA, I am still working on JIM and ST (to issue 134), for those titles I started with the higher numbered issues and worked down so the runs are complete from about #40 up. When I started collecting Atlas/Marvel Westerns and Sad Sack Titles I decided only 10 cent covers as my cutoff, Kid Colt to #102, Rawhide Kid to issue #25, Two Gun Kid to issue #60, etc. Other titles I only collected the first issue such as Capt. Marvel, Fantasy Masterpieces, Not Brand Echh, Marvel Super Heroes Special, and Sad Sack titles from the 60's/70's, the exception to this was Marvel Collector Items Classics (issues 1-4) and Marvel Tales (issues 1 and 2)

I have no problem discussing cost... I am insured for $35,000.00 at an annual cost of $193.00.

Is the 9.4 W/O Tattooz a Green or Blue Label? Books missing the Tattooz are generally listed as "Missing Tattooz, Incomplete" and receive a Green "Qualified" Label which is what the books grade would have been without the defect listed. I do not have graded books, however, from everything I have read, Green Label books are less desirable if you are looking to resell later on.

Welcome To The Boards!!! On any type of collectible, you as the consumer have to be able to judge the grade and overall condition of the book/item yourself to establish if the grade the seller assigned is accurate and the price is actual FMV. Sellers can list books for any amount they choose and eventually may find someone to pay that price, sellers that list an item as "Buy It Now" may be willing to sit on that item for as long as it takes to sell at that price. As far as grade, if a book is listed at a "specific" grade and it is not in that grade when it arrives I assume you could file a dispute for "Item Not As Described", however, it is better to know what you are getting before purchasing and if you have concerns then contact the seller. If you want to know current FMV on any book use eBay Sold Auction Listings, these are prices people are actually paying for these books, look at auctions with at least 5 bidders and be sure that there was not a bidding war that artificially raised the price. Resources to learn the grading standards/what each defect is and how to grade... https://www.gemstonepub.com/en/the-overstreet-guide-to-grading-comics-6th-edition https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions

Just so you are aware, my understanding is that books (ASM 238, F.F.252) that are missing the Tattooz, the book will receive a Green Label for being "Incomplete", how much of hit will it take if you request a Blue Label? As far as a grade, and grading the book itself, ignoring the Tattooz, from your pics all I am able to see is small. color breaking creases at both bottom corners, a couple of small stress lines and very slight corner wear at the top left. I tend to grade conservatively and would rather under grade than over grade, with that in mind and not having the book in hand... VF- 7.5 With the color breaking creases I cannot go VF 8.0 but IMO the book is much nicer than a FN/VF 7.0. 8.0 VERY FINE (VF): Back to Top An excellent copy with outstanding eye appeal. A limited accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Cover is relatively flat with minimal surface wear beginning to show, possibly including some minute wear at corners. Inks are generally bright with moderate to high reflectivity. An unnoticeable 1/4" crease is acceptable if color is not broken. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. Spine is almost completely flat with a possible minor color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Very slight staple tears and a few almost insignificant stress lines may be present. Paper is cream to tan and supple. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present. 7.5 VERY FINE- (VF-): Back to Top Fits the criteria for Very Fine but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount. 7.0 FINE/VERY FINE (FN/VF): Back to Top An above-average copy that shows minor wear but is still relatively flat and clean with outstanding eye appeal. A small accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Minor cover wear beginning to show, possibly including minor creases. Corners may be blunted. Inks are generally bright with a moderate reduction in reflectivity. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. The slightest spine roll may be present, as well as a possible moderate color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Slight staple tears and a small accumulation of light stress lines may be present. Slight rust migration. Paper is cream to tan. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present.

Welcome To The Boards!!! Just from the two pics you have shown I say that book is in the VF- 7.5 to VF 8.0 range without the spine split. (Minor edge/corner wear, color breaking stress line by the word "without", slight cover discoloration) IMO, with the spine split the book drops to a FN- 5.5/FN 6.0 since this is the first grade allowing/mentioning any spine split. What would CGC grade this book...Unfortunately nobody knows that, you would have to submit it and see. The only other way is if a member has a CGC graded book in similar condition with the same defects...

Welcome To The Boards!!! First thing is, not everybody likes having their books slabbed (graded), a lot of folks enjoy raw copies so they can physically hold, touch, read the book regardless of its condition or value, there are still "true collectors" out there that are not interested in comic books as an investment, I am one of them. I do not have my books graded, I have 2000 books ranging from 1948 - 1975, only one is CGC graded and I bought it that way because the price was right and that book helped complete a run. If you are looking to purchase books, especially if you are looking for higher grade raw books to send to CGC, before purchasing, you need to see numerous high resolution photos of the books or have the book in hand and be knowledgeable in the grading standards, what to look for, etc., especially if you are purchasing on eBay. Keep in mind, CGC graders are human, they are not 100% accurate or consistent, nobody, nothing is perfect. https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions https://www.gemstonepub.com/en/the-overstreet-guide-to-grading-comics-6th-edition

Welcome To The Boards!!! That is an impossible question to answer, you would need to see high resolution pics of the book (Inside and Outside of Front and Rear cover, edges, spine, corners, staples and all interior pages) to get an "approximate, estimated" grade, without having the book in hand it is near impossible to give a truly accurate grade and even then, would CGC agree with that grade? Remember, CGC graders are human, even they are not consistent, but as of right now they are the standard of the grading industry, are they always 100% accurate? I would suggest you purchase a copy of... https://www.gemstonepub.com/en/the-overstreet-guide-to-grading-comics-6th-edition so you can visually see the differences (even the minute differences between NM- 9.2 and NM 9.4, or NM 9.4 and NM+ 9.6, and so on) in grades and learn about grading, you can also use this... https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions

I grade very conservatively, with the defects I see in the pics... Piece missing from the front edge of the cover (1 1/2" - 2" ?), piece missing from the top right cover (1/4" Triangle) and the spine splint (2" ?) at the bottom right with another piece missing. Normally I would say GD 2.0, however, with the front edge piece missing and the missing piece at the lower right I have to say, IMO... GD- 1.8 2.0 GOOD (GD): Back to Top Shows substantial wear; often considered a "reading copy." Cover shows significant wear and may even be detached. Cover reflectivity is low and in some cases completely absent. Book-length creases and dimples may be present. Rounded corners are more common. Moderate soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing may be present. The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is likely. May have up to a 2" spine split. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Moderate interior tears may be present. 1.8 GOOD- (GD-): Back to Top Fits the criteria for Good but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.

Welcome To The Boards!!! To find FMV for your books check eBay Sold Auction prices for books in the same grade as yours, this is what folks are actually paying. Try to look at sold auctions that had at least 5 bidders and be sure that there was not a bidding war that drove the price up, you will be able to get a good idea of FMV, obviously this is much easier for CGC graded books, for CGC graded books you can also check... https://comics.gocollect.com/ As far as selling, I do not sell my books but a few choices would be... https://www.mycomicshop.com/?gclid=CLS_6I_Q8cUCFYYUHwodbhUAag https://www.comicconnect.com/ I am sure others with more selling experience will chime in, Good Luck.

According to the grading standards... NM 9.4 - "Bindery tears must be less than 1/16" on Silver Age and later books" NM+ 9.6 - " No bindery tears are allowed" https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions

Read the Grading Standards... Stamped or INKED arrival dates... "May be present" up to and including VF 8.0 "Are acceptable" in VF/NM 9.0 "Are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location" NM- 9.2 to MT 9.9 https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions

These? https://store.usps.com/store/product/shipping-supplies/priority-mail-padded-flat-rate-envelope-P_EP14PE#moreinfofooter

I just contacted/e-mailed my Congressman to see if anything is going to done to help the Post Office get back to "Normal". I (all of us) am paying $15.05 Priority Mail Shipping (2-3 Business Days) for packages that are taking two weeks (10 business days) to arrive, not the fault of the USPS folks in the distribution centers, local post office or the mail carriers... Congressman Donald Norcross <nj01dnima@mail.house.gov> Tue, Feb 2 at 11:14 AM Thank you for reaching out to my office. I have received and recorded your communication on this important issue. If you have an urgent request relating to a personal matter, please contact my Cherry Hill office at (856) 427-7000. Thank you again for your interest. To stay updated about how I'm fighting for the people of South Jersey, please sign up for my emails and if I may be of any assistance to you in the future, please do not hesitate to contact me.

$10.00 each to ship??? All shipped separately??? What kind of nonsense is that? I just shipped 8 books, all in Mylites W/Boards, sandwiched between two pieces of sturdy cardboard (cut larger than the books), the sandwich was held together with painters tape for easy removal and securely wrapped in two layers of bubble wrap in a Priority Mail Medium Box for $15.05. I can securely wrap/package/ship 2-3 books in a Flat Rate Envelope for $7.70.

The book pictured appears to be in the VG+ 4.5 range (may be a VG/FN 5.0 at best), as already stated, the marking will not affect a book in this grade. The FMV (based on eBay sold auctions) for that book in VG+ 4.5 to VG/FN 5.0 is about $10.00. IMO, read it, bag and board it, enjoy it as it is.

Here are the grading standards from Overstreet. https://collectibleshop.tripod.com/overstreet-grading-definitions.htm

Welcome To The Boards!!! Just stating that "The rest of the book is fine" does not help boardies to help you. You need to post pics of the book (front/rear covers. edges/corners, spine/staples, inside front/rear covers/splash page, centerfold). I would suggest you post this in the "Hey Buddy, Can You Spare a Grade" section. Here are the grading standards if you choose to grade the book yourself. https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions https://comics.ha.com/c/ref/glossary.zx

Welcome To The Boards!!! To me that appears to be a crease from folding the book, almost like a subscription crease but it does not break color. Color breaking is when the color layer has been lost and the white paper substrata becomes visible. Here are examples of "printer creases" I found online. https://comicbookgradingtool.com/

If these are "raw" books then unfortunately there is no simple way to get FMV other than doing the legwork manually. First you need to grade each book, once graded, use eBay "sold auction" prices for that book being sure the book listed is in the same/or close condition as yours, those prices are what folks are actually paying for that particular book in that condition, that = FMV. You do have to be careful, you have to use auctions with at least 5 bidders being sure there was not a bidding war driving up the price. Using the selling prices from online comic shops or your LCS are not accurate, those prices are what they are selling them for, not actual FMV, using Overstreet is not a real option either since it is outdated by the time it is published, although Overstreet does contain other valuable info. Back in 2015 I graded, cataloged and photographed all 2000 of my books and about another 300 or so of my Son's books, it took month's to complete working on it every evening, I estimated FMV for the entire collection for insurance purposes. Every 6 month's I go to eBay and check sold listings for my Top 100 books and have been checking/recording these prices since 2015, I cannot imagine having to check FMV for 2000 books... https://www.gemstonepub.com/en/the-overstreet-comic-book-price-guide-1-facsimile-edition https://www.gemstonepub.com/en/the-overstreet-guide-to-grading-comics-2016-edition https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions

My package to CO finally reached its destination, I just mailed another to Houston, for whatever reason they seem to get to Houston without delay.. Hopefully with the new administration the USPS will get straightened out.

I am experiencing this right now. I am in N.J., on 1/8/21 I sent out two packages, both Priority Mail, one to Houston TX and the other to Aurora CO. The package to Houston was delivered on Tuesday 1/12, the package to Colorado is still "In Transit". It left here, went to Jacksonville Florida (?), at one point tracking showed it reached a CO distribution center but as of today, 2 weeks later tracking still shows "In Transit".

I am not familiar with the book, however, if the cards are attached at a staple leave them in there, removing them would be the same as folks who removed the Tatooz from ASM 238, from what I understand, books with the Tatooz removed receive a Green Qualified label from CGC, not a Blue Universal label. This is from MCS... Wolverine #90A Includes Fleer X-Men foil card pack. Wraparound cover art by Adam Kubert (pencils), Tim Hildebrant (painted art), and Greg Hildebrant (painted art). The Dying Game, -script by Larry Hama, pencils by Adam Kubert, inks by Mark Farmer and Dan Green; Wolvie and Sabretooth have a battle royale, and Wolvie ends up popping a claw through Sabretooth's brain. Next issue in story is Weapon X #1. This special issue includes TWO double-gatefold sections! 36 pgs. $1.95. Cover price $1.95. Wolverine #90B The Fleer X-Men cards have been REMOVED. Wraparound cover art by Adam Kubert (pencils), Tim Hildebrant (painted art), and Greg Hildebrant (painted art). The Dying Game, -script by Larry Hama, pencils by Adam Kubert, inks by Mark Farmer and Dan Green; Wolvie and Sabretooth have a battle royale, and Wolvie ends up popping a claw through Sabretooth's brain. Next issue in story is Weapon X #1. This special issue includes TWO double-gatefold sections! 36 pgs. $1.95. Cover price $1.95.