M-F0uRce99

Hello!

Thanks for creating this thread! Really cool stuff!

I'm just wondering if anyone is familiar with this comic. Crime Stoppers of America. Sold by Beto at the 2002 San Diego Con. It's limited edition 30 copies with a sketch and signature by Beto on the inside cover.  Any idea on the value? 

Thanks again!

11 minutes ago, Oddball said:

Having dealt with most major auction sites and dozens of dealers I’d say it really just comes down to preference and what you plan to move.  A 25k plus Frank Miller cover - Heritage, a 5k Frank Miller cover - ComicLink.  A Frank Miller sketch - eBay.  I prefer dealing with ComicLink though because they have always been very accommodating to my requests and I always get prompt responses.  

Thank you for replying! I think you're the first one who has mentioned price-points in multiple venues! I know everything is relative and subjective, and I very much appreciate your input!

Anyone else? Thank you, My Friends!

9 minutes ago, Yorick said:

It seemed that someone already said it, but if you list on feebay then you better be selling art with a STRONG artist following (at least CAF has links to general feebay listings).  If it's fantastic art without a VERY popular artist following, it may be better to sell through Heritage or Comiclink (because there's never so-much art that I can't just scroll through to find what interests me).  Does anyone ever just scroll through feebay listings of "comic art" (who has the HOURS to do that)?  On the other hand, if the expected value is lower (say less than $300), maybe it would be better to list where there are lower fees.  If you can post here or CAF and find a buyer, that's your best bet for a win.

Great feedback! Thanks!

Some questions- 

So is $300 or less a "kind of standard" for low-end?

How do I find out who is a "Strong" artist?

Thanks again for replying! 

22 hours ago, Will_K said:

Understood, that is a bidding strategy.  Let's say you're interested in multiple lots in some auction and they close within minutes of each other, you've placed your maximum bids and walk away.  No problem because you'll just wait for your winning bid notification.  Now if you win the 1st lot for significantly less than your max (or you don't win the auction), you might increase your bids on the other lots using the "extra" $$$ from the 1st auction.

But my point is that anything that extends the bidding is good for the seller.  The drop dead is to the bidder's advantage.  When the Heritage auctioneer takes a seemingly long time to hammer the close to bidding on a lot, that's to the seller's and Heritage's advantage.   

Thanks for your input! You make a very strong point!

I'm not sure how to phrase this question (and I think I agree with you), but- Is Heritage the only one that follows that particular standard...one item at a time, hammer closes bidding? I've got local auctions near me that follow that standard, but is Heritage the only "national" comic book auctioneer that follows that standard?

On 10/3/2018 at 11:17 PM, Will_K said:

I'm going to approach this question in a different way.  If I'm bidding on a piece of comic art at auction (the key word) and I really, really want the piece, which auction site would give me the best opportunity to acquire that piece.  To me, that also makes it a good venue for the seller.  I'm talking opportunity not price, every buyer wants a bargain.

To me, it would be Heritage and ComicConnect, mainly because there is no "drop dead" time for the auction.

Heritage, because during the "live" bidding, they roll up the automatic bids and then you can continue bidding on-line (or by phone in some cases).  This keeps the lot alive so if I want to go crazy and maybe bid over my head, I get that chance.  Then they move on to the next lot.  Yes, the buyer's premium sucks.  But you know that going in (or you should). 

ComicConnect for a similar reason.  You can keep bidding until a time limit (3 minutes) passes with no bid increases.  The biggest problem is that other lots are still alive and have their individual 3 minute limits.  If you're bidding on multiple lots, you have to keep you eyes on them.  They don't close lots in the sequence they were listed.  Yes, the website is mainly geared for selling comics, not art.

ComicLink and ebay have set times for closing the auctions.  This also allows for sniping bids.  I think we've all gotten "bidder's remorse" (in hindsight, you wished you bid more) at some point.

Some great feedback!

I've purchased auction items in the past thru Ebay and Heritage, and I'm pretty familiar with them, but you bring up some great points regarding buyer and seller aspects in each of those venues that I had not really thought about.  Very helpful!

I"ve considered buying a few pieces off some other sites just to get a little more familiar with them, but I made a commitment not to buy anything else through 12/31/19. I will only be selling! (please no one ask for details!:)). Thus the reason for my OP!

Another question(s)- You said ComicConnect is "mainly geared for selling comics, not art."  Can you elaborate on this? Is it their format? The way they advertise?   Please remember, I've only been on here a few weeks, so I hope it's not a dumb question(s).

And please, if any experienced sellers have anything to offer, please do so! 

Thanks again for your time!

14 hours ago, Will_K said:

I'm going to approach this question in a different way.  If I'm bidding on a piece of comic art at auction (the key word) and I really, really want the piece, which auction site would give me the best opportunity to acquire that piece.  To me, that also makes it a good venue for the seller.  I'm talking opportunity not price, every buyer wants a bargain.

To me, it would be Heritage and ComicConnect, mainly because there is no "drop dead" time for the auction.

Heritage, because during the "live" bidding, they roll up the automatic bids and then you can continue bidding on-line (or by phone in some cases).  This keeps the lot alive so if I want to go crazy and maybe bid over my head, I get that chance.  Then they move on to the next lot.  Yes, the buyer's premium sucks.  But you know that going in (or you should). 

ComicConnect for a similar reason.  You can keep bidding until a time limit (3 minutes) passes with no bid increases.  The biggest problem is that other lots are still alive and have their individual 3 minute limits.  If you're bidding on multiple lots, you have to keep you eyes on them.  They don't close lots in the sequence they were listed.  Yes, the website is mainly geared for selling comics, not art.

ComicLink and ebay have set times for closing the auctions.  This also allows for sniping bids.  I think we've all gotten "bidder's remorse" (in hindsight, you wished you bid more) at some point.

Some great advice. Thank you!

22 hours ago, pemart1966 said:

What are your definitions of "low-end items" and "higher valued items"?

Good question! I probably should have worded the OP differently. I don't actually have a "definition" per se. My collection ranges from $20 convention sketches to OA  worth several thousand. I'm in the process of downsizing and I'm trying to get input from experienced sellers about the different venues. So far I've received some great advice. If anyone else has anything to add, please do so! 

Thanks again!

22 hours ago, JadeGiant said:

I would start online in various forums/groups. Post what you have for sale. If you aren’t sure about prices, post that you are taking offers (some groups don’t allow this so be sure to know rules) to get a sense of value. Better yet, find a friend that will give you unbiased advice for asking prices, etc. If no luck, go to eBay and/or Comic Link and let it fly.  

Great advice. Thank you!

On 9/28/2018 at 2:27 PM, joeypost said:

There are services available where the one who will clean and press will give you an assessment of the book. Some charge for this service, some do not. In either case, make sure you go to someone who is reputable and not just advertising on Facebook. 

Thanks for the helpful information!

6 hours ago, romitaman said:

it's 20% now with Heritage.........

plus MANY states now charges sales tax ON TOP of that 20% buyers premium and shipping costs..........

Good info. Thanks!

13 hours ago, Rick2you2 said:

I doubt you will do as well on ebay with the low end items as on Comic Link if only because it's hard to shop on ebay without specifics in mind. Why not list them here first and give other serious collectors a shot?

I've never bought or sold on Comic Link, but your comment made me look closer at it and I think you are right! Thank you for the helpful feedback!

18 hours ago, artdealer said:

Or consider consigning them to me.

I've been in the business for over 40 years. 

Send me a PM for more info.

Mitch Itkowitz
Graphic Collectibles

Thanks!

3 hours ago, dirtymartini1 said:

Give them to Hakes so they sell way under full market value and we can snag some great deals! Ha. 

HA is best in breed but you have to factor in the 19.5% vig they hit people with. If you have good stuff they will waive the 10% sellers fee. I do not care for ComicConnect extended bidding. If people get jammed up on prior pieces getting extensions, and your piece comes up maybe it doesnt get full attention.

CL main events bring good money but if your art gets relegated to one of their monthly auctions, kiss strong money returns goodbye.

Don't forget  the market place on here. Always better to deal with  a fellow collector 1 on 1.

Good luck!

Thanks for your reply!

Any opinions/advice on the best auction venue to sell original art? I'm preparing to downsize my collection. I plan on selling the low-end items through ebay and local venues. I figure the higher valued items will do better at places like Heritage or ComicLink or ComicConnect (or another place?). 

Any opinions on price-points for each venue, including ebay?

Thanks in advance for your input!

Thanks for your replies!

I'm getting ready to purchase insurance coverage for my collection. I'll probably go with Collectible Insurance Services. Does anyone have any advice or input before I sign on? Thanks!

Has anyone heard of these plastic cases for comic books called "Mill Case" ?. I was googling around and came across them. 

http://www.millcase.com/buyit.html

2 hours ago, JollyComics said:

I went to a comic book store and saw ASM #28 inside the glass display. I looked at the spine - no stress marks so I suspected it has a heavy color touch. I opened the cover and saw multiple bleed through spots along the spine even some creases were color touched. Always check before you buy.

Great advice! Thanks! 

1 hour ago, musicmeta said:

I have some of my slabs in a safe deposit box at my bank. (I believe there is thread on safe deposit box storage) but so far my books look ok.  The rest are at home with me. I do cringe when a really bad storm happens.

I hear ya! Tornado season kicks in around here in the springtime and lasts through summer! (It's September, but I knocked on wood just in case!)

Thanks!

5 hours ago, thehumantorch said:

Hey Cap, once you'll picked out books you're gonna send in for grading check them carefully.  It's pretty easy to miss something and grade a book that's not worth it 

Count pages - should be 8 double sided pages to the center and 8 more double sided pages to the back cover, while counting pages look for large rips or missing pieces or missing Marvel value stamps or filled out puzzles or other interior damage,

Look for color touch - most often black applied to black areas of covers- that can often be spotted by looking for bleed through on the interior of covers and by looking at covers at an angle in good light, color touch will reflect light differently.

Check for trimming - comics do have variation in size because it's a cheap printing process but if you compare each book's dimensions to other books and any appear significantly smaller it may be trimmed.  Covers were typically printed larger than the interior of comics so the cover should extend past the inside comic - overhang - so if the cover and interior are flush it's probably trimmed.  Imagine using a paper cutter to chop off some defect on a cover's edge but also slicing through the book itself and eliminating the cover overhang.

Check for stains.  CGC is quite hard on stains, even small ones, and they're easy to miss.  Rusty staples and loose centerfolds are also easy to miss.

Some great advice! Thank you!

I will look for all those things before submitting for grading. 

I'm curious.....do you guys pay for the screening process? 

7 hours ago, TwoPiece said:

This is actually a great method. Being able to remove the book from 1 mylar to see the back cover without exposing it to the elements.

I store my non-slabbed comic books flat and in boxes, alternating right-side-up to upside-down, so that staple-side is never repeating. As far as I understand that is the best method.

When selling, obviously you want them standing in-box, so that way they can be flipped through.

On 9/22/2018 at 10:52 PM, Bomber-Bob said:

I like the 4 mil also but I like to keep as much air as possible away from the book. SO I will use a mylite with backing board for the comic and then put the combo into a 4 mil sleeve. It's strange, but I've never been a fan of a fullback backing board, preferring the halfpack. I like the comic to have a lot of room to 'swim'.

Thanks for your replies! 

How do you store slabbed comics?

17 hours ago, Bomber-Bob said:

I understand what you are trying to accomplish with this method and it works for me ! You should store them upright. Since they all have boards you do not need any extra boards between them. Do pad them out in the box so they don't slide and have something at the front and back of the box by the handles.

Thanks for your reply!

5 minutes ago, JollyComics said:

You also check all pages if there is any missing pieces/wraps, cutouts, tears or remarks. You need to check the centerfold if it is attached to both staples.  I recommended you to check with www.comics.org by entering with the title and issue number. The website will tell you how many pages in that book so you will have to count pages or wraps.

Thank you for replying! I will definitely check out comics.org! I'm always looking for advice from experienced folks like you.  I also made a post not too long ago with questions about storing my comic books. If you could read the post and offer your advice and opnion, I would greatly appreciate it!

Does anyone know if there is a "comic book storage" info forum? I'd like to post this there.