redfoxdutchman

Is there a place to look it up. I am interested in sending vintage to CGC, but I would like a checklist of what cards have slabs designed for them without using the plastic sleeves. Some cards I am interested in sending are the 1934-36 Diamond Stars, 1933 DeLong, 1933 Tattoo Orbit, and 1939 - 1941 Play Ball. If anyone can help me find this information, it would be appreciated! It would be nice to have this information under the submission process. I think it would be a nice touch to put some images of cards in the new holders on the website. For instance the image of the T206 Cobb in the POP report page would look so much better if they had a T206 card without the sleeve!

They are reprints, don't try to grade and give CGC free money. Look at the seems of the baseball on the bottom right of your cards and compare them to the real cards you can find slabbed by PSA/BGS on eBay.

Wish the CGC made another card holder with a slightly larger opening for cards slightly oversized. It seems with my orders that 25% get sleeved up, which I don't like. The 50's through 80's 2.5" x 3.5" cards do have a tendency to run large, and I do understand that the CGC holders don't have the tolerances to hold these cards. However, I have about 50 cards I would pay to reholder if they ever come up with a slab for these cards!

These are graded by CGC and are certified graded cards. News to come? Would be great to see these graded! Andy Broome comes from Beckett, and they graded these cards for a long time. It looks like there is also a CGC 8 Star Jordan 101 card graded.

Rookie cards have been a disaster since the 1990's, well even the 80's. With CGC registry they list these requirements, "A Rookie card is defined as a player's first base card in a regular issued, fully-licensed card set. It must be a base card and cannot be an insert, parallel, or redemption card." If we are talking current modern cards, anything from Topps or a Now/Instant card wouldn't qualify even if they have a logo. Topps cards are not fully-licensed and Topps Now/Panini Instant cards are not a regular issue. The "RC logo" on the card is not a requirement for a rookie card. Most will have them currently, but this is not what makes a rookie card. If you want a simple way of what is a rookie card, you will unfortunately not get a simple answer. I for one gave up on rookie cards after 1989 because of the insanity. For ultra-modern cards, a rookie card designation is silly at this point. I would rather collect a rarer insert of parallel card instead. I think current collectors will eventually get sick of "RC's" and pay less attention to them as time goes on.

Will the new vintage holders have holders designed for the 1951 Topps Red/Blue Back sets or will they still use the crimped sleeves for this set. Thanks!

This happens quite a bit. The standard CSG slab barely fits a perfectly sized 2.5" by 3.5" card. If your card is slightly bigger than 2.5" by 3.5" from a factory cut, there isn't enough room for the card to fit in the standard case. This is why they have to use the plastic sleeve. PSA will do this as well, but less often as their slabs can accommodate slightly larger cards. This is one of the few issues I have with CSG. Changing to CGC won't change this, the slabs are exactly the same.

Miscut cards are less valuable in the hobby. In the coin world, things like this would hold more value. In card collecting, this is not the case.

If CSG grades Tall Boys, I hope they don't continue their Beckett model with using larger cases and plastic sleeves around the cards. CSG really needs to not only develop slabs for bigger cards, but they need proper cutouts for them. Another wish list I have is that they have slabs designed for T206, 1933 Goudey, and early Bowman cards. I hate the plastic sleeves holding the cards in the slab. CSG has the best plastic in the hobby and seeing that plastic sleeve really hurts how the card looks inside.

If you go to Blowoutforums or Net54 forums, they have people that can tell fakes from reals very easily. If you have a blacklight, the real cards will glow, but this is not a 100% test. The Ryan does look weird, but it could have just been stamped poorly. Attached is my Desert Shield card that Blowout members help me with. The name of the thread on Blowout forums is, "Rolling Thread for Fake 1991 Topps Desert Shield Cards." Good luck!

Yes, the normal price is $15. They really should have written the price as $15 $12 on the Services and Fees page to show the discount.

My November 7th received bulk order was shipped yesterday. I know a few other people that were around November 9th that just got shipped out as well. My orders tend to take more time because I have bulk orders that range from T206 cards until ultra-modern. I think you will start to see movement very soon!

I think the issue is, from my grading experience, that the size of the inserts within the holder is the issue. If the card is even slightly larger then standard 2.5 x 3.5 inches for typical cards, they will have to put them into a crimped plastic sleeve into the larger holder. CSG's slabs have hardly any leeway on cards cut bigger than the typical size. I think this is the issue with the cards not being holdered for older Topps. The will grade them and then not be able to slab them because of the card being ever so slightly bigger than the slab allows. For example the holder will allow cards up to 3.8 inches, but if your card is 3.82 inches it can't be slabbed.

There are 1954 Bowman cards slabbed by CSG. They have holders that can accommodate those cards. They use their standard older Topps sized holder and crimp a plastic sleeve around those in the bigger holder. CSG can't grade cards like 1969 Topps tall boys in basketball, but they have holders for your cards. From CSG, "CSG currently grades cards that measure 2-5/8" x 3-3/4" or less." 1954 Bowman football are 2½" by 3¾". They will fit in CSG slabs.

That is personally a card I wouldn't grade. Probably around an 8 to 8.5 max. You can buy really nice CSG 8.5 from eBay for about the same price as grading cost. The only reason for grading that card is if you have some type of emotional attachment to it. For example I graded a 1984 Topps Mattingly that got a CSG 7 because my dad bought that card for me when I was a kid. It means more to me than the PSA 9's that I have for the same card.

Always mark the box with the highest grading level! Put a big EX on your box!

That is probably an express card at the $56 level. That is somewhere between a $1500 to $2000 card IMO. Cards with paper loss and huge creases for this 1955 Clemente go for around $1000. This is much nicer than the PSA/SGC 1 and 1.5's that sell for $1000.

Are you trying to crossover that card? CSG will only cross over BGS (BVG), PSA, and SGC slabs. They won't even look at any other companies. If you want to grade it with CSG, you will have to crack it out of the slab and submit raw.

People care way too much about grades. I have a PSA 10 1988 Fleer Dennis Rodman that sells for over $2000 because of an opinion. Bought it for $30 and graded it for $10. If I took it out of the case and submitted it to PSA, 80% chance it is a 9 and 20% chance of a 10. The card would probably lose over $2000 because it graded a 9. I have graded 80's vending cards with PSA that were absolutely identical in every way. Put one of the best in separate orders. Some orders I got 8/9's and some orders I got 7/8's, with cards that were identical. I treat grading as +/-1. If I have an 6 from any company, I treat it as a 5 to 7. I am buying raw cards and grading with CSG, then selling or trading my PSA slabs of the same card. For instance I have two PSA 7's 1974 Dave Winfield rookies and I got one graded at CSG that is very similar that got a CSG 7.5. Keeping the CSG and getting rid of the two PSA slabs. I have been doing this for the past 6 months.

Each grading company does things differently. PSA cares more about centering and corners. CSG cares more about the surface of the card. That is why you will see PSA cards that have a crappy surface grade much higher than CSG. You will also see CSG cards with a dinged corner grade much lower at PSA. PSA rewards off-centered cards for being in great shape, CSG rewards centering and registration over everything else being perfect. I much prefer the way CSG grades. Just a personal opinion. I had another order pop and the cards with a nice surface graded well and they killed me on 5 cards that PSA would have graded 1+ higher in a grade because of a slight surface issue.

CSG, in my experience, does grade vintage a little lenient. I have graded with CSG/PSA/SGC and they can sometimes be 0.5 to 1 grade above SGC/PSA. CSG tends to let a dinged corner grade higher than the other companies. However, they are just as hard on surface than PSA/SGC. I still use CSG for vintage, because of the price and quality of the holder. Well, I stopped using them for non-standard sized vintage, because I prefer the slabs designed for those cards. The crimped plastic sleeves are a deal breaker for me. I really wish CSG would have slabs that are designed for T206, 1933 Goudey, and early Bowman cards. Now for some actual evidence that they grade more on the lenient side. The evidence is Andy Broome himself. Andy was in charge of BVG at Beckett, and they grade vintage (pre-1980's) differently than modern cards. They even tell you they do! That is how Andy graded for a long time. He then came to CSG and lead the vintage grading here. He trained everyone and defined the standards. It is absolutely not a stretch that CSG vintage grading is treated differently than cards after 1980. This does fit with my experience with grading at PSA/SGC. I am not talking a huge difference, but I have received 7's on cards that would normally be a 6 to 6.5 at PSA/SGC. However, PSA will grade the same card a 5 to a 7 with their inconsistent grading. The one thing about CSG and SGC that I love, is at least they are consistent about how they grade. I stopped using PSA because of insane turnaround times, horrible customer service, and inconsistent grading. I will also use CSG over SGC for standard sized cards. It is half the price, and the slab is twice as nice. Edit: I will go one further here. BVG vintage is 1980 and older and BGS grades cards 1981 and newer. That is exactly how these forums are set up. Most other places will say pre-1980's and will include 1980 as not vintage.

If you need a card to gem mint to be profitable, then you really shouldn't submit it IMO. I have sent many amazing 1980's card to CSG and I have yet to receive any CSG 10's, but tons of CSG 9.5's. CSG Gem Rate for the 80's is about 2%. I am sorry, but if you don't have a mint to gem mint HOF rookie from the 1980's, the card is not worth much. You can try to play the PSA 10 game, but you will end up losing in the end unless you send in one card, and it gets a PSA 10. Gem Mint cards don't mean pack fresh and handles with gloves. They need to have near perfect surface, registration, corners, edges, printing, gloss, centering, cut to the right size, etc... The fact is the quality control and printing were absolutely horrible in the junk wax era. Well, it still is today.

Quality control for the junk wax era was horrible. Error cards like this are not worth anything. If they were, people could take off the holograms on other cards and put multiple on another card. This is not a 1/1 and saying that drives me crazy! I can only think of a few cards that were errors and are worth money. Some examples are Mark Whiten 1991 Topps over white border, 1990 Topps Frank Thomas No Name, 1989 Fleer Bill Ripken F Face, and 1989 Fleer Randy Johnson Marlboro variations to name a few.

It is worth significant money only in a PSA 10 because of the registry, not because of the mass produced cards. PSA is POP controlling as well, so good luck getting a PSA 10 even if the card is Gem Mint. CSG/SGC Gem Mints of the same card that is sold for $100 in a PSA 10, will sell for $30 in a SGC/CSG 10 slab. Playing the PSA 10 game with junk wax is a very dangerous way to try to make money these days. If you get a PSA 10, you can make money. However if you get a PSA 9, you lost money. CSG is even worse trying to grade these cards. I sent in absolutely perfect 80's and 90's cards and I got back close to 20 CSG 9.5's and not one CSG 10. The cards I sent were much more valuable than the typical junk wax, so it increased the cards value. However, a bunch of 1991 Studio Griffey's in a CSG 9.5 would lose you money with the grading prices.

Look up past sales on eBay, that is about all you can do. There is no price guide for CSG slabs. Maybe check out SGC comparisons on eBay and price them about the same. PSA has a very detailed sales history and price estimate on their site. You won't find that here.