Before and after pics of restoration

[bronze_rules]

Fair enough. But could you step up to the proposed legit thread? And encourage others to do so? It's one thing to discuss concepts behind closed doors, another to share them out in the open. To my recollection, not one so called expert, has even responded to the request for a reccommended list of dry mount press manufacturers and models.

 

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the 'experts' to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative.

 

I had a pretty lengthy discussion with him about resto and I thought he'd taken it in. I told him to get in touch with Kenny - he didn't. I told him to submit some work to Matt Nelson for professional feedback - as far as I know he hasn't.

 

The fact remains he is damaging key books and continues to do so even after being told not to. And charging people for it.

 

His attitude stinks, he has already said he doesn't care what people think he'll carry on regardless. He'll learn nothing that way.

[Boozad]

Do you mean the conversation I had with him?

[joeypost]

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the high priests of pressing to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative. And thanks for putting the disclosure concept to practical use.

 

Ok, I'll shed some light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

[Boozad]

I did receive one PM from a professional restorer telling me they had PMd him with a lot of info and he chose to ignore it.

 

I wouldn't post about the guy like this without knowing he'd shunned a lot of info.

[bronze_rules]

No. Just an entire thread dedicated, not to how wrong every 'insufficiently_thoughtful_person' is applying the art, but rather a nice pictorial cookbook type discussion on how pressing and/or restoration is actually applied in a professional manner, with explicit emphasis on specific tools and methods. With no axe to grind, and allowing others to learn the proper way to do this stuff, rather than destroy countless books in their misguided journey. There are some pressers that mean well by chastising amateurs on the board, but I don't think that helps as much as actually 'showing' and not just 'telling' how do it right.

 

 

Do you mean the conversation I had with him?

[bronze_rules]

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for the basic outline. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source/material and or specific brand name/mod number of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method and/or vid? Humidity introduced? Getting there.

[Boozad]

No. Just an entire thread dedicated, not to how wrong every 'insufficiently_thoughtful_person' is applying the art, but rather a nice pictorial cookbook type discussion on how pressing and/or restoration is actually applied in a professional manner, with explicit emphasis on specific tools and methods. With no axe to grind, and allowing others to learn the proper way to do this stuff, rather than destroy countless books in their misguided journey. There are some pressers that mean well by chastising amateurs on the board, but I don't think that helps as much as actually 'showing' and not just 'telling' how do it right.

 

I see where you're coming from and perhaps that is a good idea. I have no interest in pressing whatsoever, but I can see when books are being wrecked for the sake of 'I'll do this my way'. I probably have less opinions on pressing than anybody round here, my beef with this guy is that he has refused to learn from the pro's and still has the minerals to charge people who don't know any better (like himself) to destroy their books.

[joeypost]

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for a start. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source and or specific brand name of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method? Getting there.

 

Without dumping too much information I will share what I can.

 

As many have stated a dry press is a dry press is a dry press.

 

I like the Bogen modles and own 3 different ones.

 

500

510

560

 

I use the 560 for OA and it does a really nice job because it is a much larger press.

 

I do adjust the pressure to accomodate different sized books (100 pagers, Marvel Square bound books, etc). Using the same pressure on all books can kill the thicker books.

 

Heat is rarely above the minimum setting. I may go a few degrees higher if I am trying to get a nasty bend or crease out.

 

Always use a substrate over the bottom padding. This varies from presser to presser. I have my preference while others I know use a different method with very good results.

 

I leave books in the press to cool, I know others who do not.

 

Most of the work is done prepping the book. This is where the difference between an average or a really good job stems from. This is the part that you learn through trial and error and should always be practiced on beater books and never a grail or a customers book.

[bronze_rules]

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for a start. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source and or specific brand name of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method? Getting there.

 

Without dumping too much information I will share what I can.

 

As many have stated a dry press is a dry press is a dry press.

 

I like the Bogen modles and own 3 different ones.

 

500

510

560

 

I use the 560 for OA and it does a really nice job because it is a much larger press.

 

I do adjust the pressure to accomodate different sized books (100 pagers, Marvel Square bound books, etc). Using the same pressure on all books can kill the thicker books.

 

Heat is rarely above the minimum setting. I may go a few degrees higher if I am trying to get a nasty bend or crease out.

 

Always use a substrate over the bottom padding. This varies from presser to presser. I have my preference while others I know use a different method with very good results.

 

I leave books in the press to cool, I know others who do not.

 

Most of the work is done prepping the book. This is where the difference between an average or a really good job stems from. This is the part that you learn through trial and error and should always be practiced on beater books and never a grail or a customers book.

 

Thank you, joey! This is exactly what I'm talking about.

 

More questions.

1) substrate material and type? thickness? I've seen conservators go so far as to suggest glass vs. say, wax paper to avoid cockling.

2) Lower temp is typically 100F, yes?

3) I was under the understanding that humidity is typically required to remove some creases, and raw pressure/heat combo is insufficient. I see it is not included in dry-mount presses, though. Do you ever introduce humidity prior to pressing? If so, how?

4) How long (duration) do you leave it under the press with temperature on?

5)Does the press have force adjustment? Does it give you any quantitative reading of the force applied, or just a knob/wheel to adjust? How many turns and direction, typically?

6) Any examples of prepping?

7) Photos would be divine.

 

Thanks again, and sorry to introduce such a useful concept on a thread that gives a bad connotation. Maybe we should start a new thread...

[joeypost]

I'll answer what I can

 

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for a start. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source and or specific brand name of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method? Getting there.

 

Without dumping too much information I will share what I can.

 

As many have stated a dry press is a dry press is a dry press.

 

I like the Bogen modles and own 3 different ones.

 

500

510

560

 

I use the 560 for OA and it does a really nice job because it is a much larger press.

 

I do adjust the pressure to accomodate different sized books (100 pagers, Marvel Square bound books, etc). Using the same pressure on all books can kill the thicker books.

 

Heat is rarely above the minimum setting. I may go a few degrees higher if I am trying to get a nasty bend or crease out.

 

Always use a substrate over the bottom padding. This varies from presser to presser. I have my preference while others I know use a different method with very good results.

 

I leave books in the press to cool, I know others who do not.

 

Most of the work is done prepping the book. This is where the difference between an average or a really good job stems from. This is the part that you learn through trial and error and should always be practiced on beater books and never a grail or a customers book.

 

Thank you, joey! This is exactly what I'm talking about.

 

More questions.

1) substrate material and type? thickness? I've seen conservators go so far as to suggest glass vs. say, wax paper to avoid cockling. JFG - Again I have seen some use glass, other sheet metal and others a combo of materials. It is important to remember that any defect in the substrate will be imprinted on that side of the book. This includes dust, dirt and even a fold or bend in the release paper.What is vital is that you use something proper.

2) Lower temp is typically 100F, yes? JFG - No, it is higher.

3) I was under the understanding that humidity is typically required to remove some creases, and raw pressure/heat combo is insufficient. I see it is not included in dry-mount presses, though. Do you ever introduce humidity prior to pressing? If so, how? JFG - Yes, the fiber have to be relaxed and humidity is one way to do it. I have seen different ways to do this from blotting to humidity chambers.

4) How long (duration) do you leave it under the press with temperature on? JFG - Again this varies. I leave my books in the press to cool while others put them in for a few minutes and then place them in a mylar to cool. The mylar has sufficient pressure applied to it to keep the book flat as it cools. I have never tried this but I have seen proof that it works well.

5)Does the press have force adjustment? Does it give you any quantitative reading of the force applied, or just a knob/wheel to adjust? How many turns and direction, typically? JFG - It all depends. I have my presses set for each type of book (ie one I use primarily for squarebound books, one for golden age, etc).

6) Any examples of prepping?

7) Photos would be divine.

 

Thanks again, and sorry to introduce such a useful concept on a thread that gives a bad connotation. Maybe we should start a new thread...

[slym2none]

Great info, joeypost!

 

 

 

 

-slym

[bronze_rules]

I'll answer what I can

 

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for a start. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source and or specific brand name of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method? Getting there.

 

Without dumping too much information I will share what I can.

 

As many have stated a dry press is a dry press is a dry press.

 

I like the Bogen modles and own 3 different ones.

 

500

510

560

 

I use the 560 for OA and it does a really nice job because it is a much larger press.

 

I do adjust the pressure to accomodate different sized books (100 pagers, Marvel Square bound books, etc). Using the same pressure on all books can kill the thicker books.

 

Heat is rarely above the minimum setting. I may go a few degrees higher if I am trying to get a nasty bend or crease out.

 

Always use a substrate over the bottom padding. This varies from presser to presser. I have my preference while others I know use a different method with very good results.

 

I leave books in the press to cool, I know others who do not.

 

Most of the work is done prepping the book. This is where the difference between an average or a really good job stems from. This is the part that you learn through trial and error and should always be practiced on beater books and never a grail or a customers book.

 

Thank you, joey! This is exactly what I'm talking about.

 

More questions.

1) substrate material and type? thickness? I've seen conservators go so far as to suggest glass vs. say, wax paper to avoid cockling. JFG - Again I have seen some use glass, other sheet metal and others a combo of materials. It is important to remember that any defect in the substrate will be imprinted on that side of the book. This includes dust, dirt and even a fold or bend in the release paper.What is vital is that you use something proper.

2) Lower temp is typically 100F, yes? JFG - No, it is higher.

3) I was under the understanding that humidity is typically required to remove some creases, and raw pressure/heat combo is insufficient. I see it is not included in dry-mount presses, though. Do you ever introduce humidity prior to pressing? If so, how? JFG - Yes, the fiber have to be relaxed and humidity is one way to do it. I have seen different ways to do this from blotting to humidity chambers.

4) How long (duration) do you leave it under the press with temperature on? JFG - Again this varies. I leave my books in the press to cool while others put them in for a few minutes and then place them in a mylar to cool. The mylar has sufficient pressure applied to it to keep the book flat as it cools. I have never tried this but I have seen proof that it works well.

5)Does the press have force adjustment? Does it give you any quantitative reading of the force applied, or just a knob/wheel to adjust? How many turns and direction, typically? JFG - It all depends. I have my presses set for each type of book (ie one I use primarily for squarebound books, one for golden age, etc).

6) Any examples of prepping?

7) Photos would be divine.

 

Thanks again, and sorry to introduce such a useful concept on a thread that gives a bad connotation. Maybe we should start a new thread...

 

Sounds like Bogen gets a lot of good reviews, although they no longer manufacture new models? Also, 180F min (Bogen) seems kind of high; I did a small survey of models, and they typically run from 100-350F. Blotting seems like it would have to be done very carefully for even distribution, although I like the idea of controlled isolated humidity chambers.

 

Again, thanks for breaking the presstunati code a bit, and sharing your experience with some details.

[Ze-man]

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the 'experts' to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative.

 

I had a pretty lengthy discussion with him about resto and I thought he'd taken it in. I told him to get in touch with Kenny - he didn't. I told him to submit some work to Matt Nelson for professional feedback - as far as I know he hasn't.

 

The fact remains he is damaging key books and continues to do so even after being told not to. And charging people for it.

 

His attitude stinks, he has already said he doesn't care what people think he'll carry on regardless. He'll learn nothing that way.

 

Actually he did contact me and we spoke at length several times. I offered practical advice to questions asked if I was able, but many times what I know is not mine to relate and made that clear up front. I gave him several links on where to buy different archival supplies which he did, and what to research to learn about paper, blotting and other techniques.

 

In the end I just felt Mikes passion far outweighed his common sense. I have NO problem with his desire to learn, I admire that but would question his ability to leave things untouched if he was not sure what the results would be. Not to mention doing things to a book that are completely unnecessary. Taking things slow was my advice, learn one process, master it and go from there then work your way towards more expensive books. I literally spent years practicing on beaters before moving on to books of worth. So when I logged on to see that ruined pressed book Mike posted I realized my words fell on deaf ears.

 

I have no problem with people experimenting with pressing/resto on reader comics because it is the ONLY way to really learn. What I have a HUGE problem with is when they sell books they practiced on that are in worse shape then before they started. That to me is the difference. Chastising someone for trying something new IS unfair, chastising them for offering a service without knowing what it is they are attempting is altogether different.

 

And to BR, I keep hearing you talking about wanting a "no axe to grind" pictorial expose on "how to press comics" But in the same breath you mention how the cabal of high priest presstorationists are unwilling to do so. How exactly is that kind of comment supposed to be taken as constructive or un biased? You said yourself that pressing isn't rocket science yet you have not taken it upon yourself to learn even the most basic principles of pressing firsthand, the basics of how to do it safely are littered throughout this forum all joey did was reiterate many of them. Which is basically to use common sense and err on the side of caution.

 

You even went as far as asking people to give you a list of what types of presses are out there when all that info is just a click away on the Internet.

 

My advice would be to buy a press, see what you can learn like others did through trial and error because all a "how to press books" pictorial thread would do is create even more casual pressers who otherwise would not have tried.

[Boozad]

Actually he did contact me and we spoke at length several times. I offered practical advice to questions asked if I was able, but many times what I know is not mine to relate and made that clear up front. I gave him several links on where to buy different archival supplies which he did, and what to research to learn about paper, blotting and other techniques.

 

In the end I just felt Mikes passion far outweighed his common sense. I have NO problem with his desire to learn, I admire that but would question his ability to leave things untouched if he was not sure what the results would be. Not to mention doing things to a book that are completely unnecessary. Taking things slow was my advice, learn one process, master it and go from there then work your way towards more expensive books. I literally spent years practicing on beaters before moving on to books of worth. So when I logged on to see that ruined pressed book Mike posted I realized my words fell on deaf ears.

 

I have no problem with people experimenting with pressing/resto on reader comics because it is the ONLY way to really learn. What I have a HUGE problem with is when they sell books they practiced on that are in worse shape then before they started. That to me is the difference. Chastising someone for trying something new IS unfair, chastising them for offering a service without knowing what it is they are attempting is altogether different.

 

I stand corrected. I do remember you saying it was as good as flogging a dead horse trying to give him advice though.

[joeypost]

I'll answer what I can

 

 

Ok, I'll she dsome light on a few techniques.

 

Black light.

 

1 - Take out a book and have a clean flat surface to lay it on.

2 - Buy a black light

3 - Turn off the lights

4 - Check for weird stuff on the cover

5 - Turn book over and repeat

6 - Remember to turn lights back on

 

Pressing

 

1 - Open press

2 - Insert book

3 - Close press

4 - Wait for the press to cool

5 - Open press

6 - Remove book

 

One important step that some leave out. Plug in the press. If not you have to do steps 1-6 all over again.

 

Glad I could be of service.

 

Thanks for a start. (thumbs u Now how about some specifics? Press model and manufacturer? Source and or specific brand name of buffers used to avoid IHOP treatment? Temperature applied? Duration of pressing 'wait' time? Copious photos of the method? Getting there.

 

Without dumping too much information I will share what I can.

 

As many have stated a dry press is a dry press is a dry press.

 

I like the Bogen modles and own 3 different ones.

 

500

510

560

 

I use the 560 for OA and it does a really nice job because it is a much larger press.

 

I do adjust the pressure to accomodate different sized books (100 pagers, Marvel Square bound books, etc). Using the same pressure on all books can kill the thicker books.

 

Heat is rarely above the minimum setting. I may go a few degrees higher if I am trying to get a nasty bend or crease out.

 

Always use a substrate over the bottom padding. This varies from presser to presser. I have my preference while others I know use a different method with very good results.

 

I leave books in the press to cool, I know others who do not.

 

Most of the work is done prepping the book. This is where the difference between an average or a really good job stems from. This is the part that you learn through trial and error and should always be practiced on beater books and never a grail or a customers book.

 

Thank you, joey! This is exactly what I'm talking about.

 

More questions.

1) substrate material and type? thickness? I've seen conservators go so far as to suggest glass vs. say, wax paper to avoid cockling. JFG - Again I have seen some use glass, other sheet metal and others a combo of materials. It is important to remember that any defect in the substrate will be imprinted on that side of the book. This includes dust, dirt and even a fold or bend in the release paper.What is vital is that you use something proper.

2) Lower temp is typically 100F, yes? JFG - No, it is higher.

3) I was under the understanding that humidity is typically required to remove some creases, and raw pressure/heat combo is insufficient. I see it is not included in dry-mount presses, though. Do you ever introduce humidity prior to pressing? If so, how? JFG - Yes, the fiber have to be relaxed and humidity is one way to do it. I have seen different ways to do this from blotting to humidity chambers.

4) How long (duration) do you leave it under the press with temperature on? JFG - Again this varies. I leave my books in the press to cool while others put them in for a few minutes and then place them in a mylar to cool. The mylar has sufficient pressure applied to it to keep the book flat as it cools. I have never tried this but I have seen proof that it works well.

5)Does the press have force adjustment? Does it give you any quantitative reading of the force applied, or just a knob/wheel to adjust? How many turns and direction, typically? JFG - It all depends. I have my presses set for each type of book (ie one I use primarily for squarebound books, one for golden age, etc).

6) Any examples of prepping?

7) Photos would be divine.

 

Thanks again, and sorry to introduce such a useful concept on a thread that gives a bad connotation. Maybe we should start a new thread...

 

Sounds like Bogen gets a lot of good reviews, although they no longer manufacture new models? Also, 180F min (Bogen) seems kind of high; I did a small survey of models, and they typically run from 100-350F. Blotting seems like it would have to be done very carefully for even distribution, although I like the idea of controlled isolated humidity chambers.

 

Again, thanks for breaking the presstunati code a bit, and sharing your experience with some details.

 

Bogen no longer makes presses and getting parts for older ones is next to impossible. There are ways of dampening the heat so that it only gets into the 160-170 range.

[bronze_rules]

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the 'experts' to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative.

 

I had a pretty lengthy discussion with him about resto and I thought he'd taken it in. I told him to get in touch with Kenny - he didn't. I told him to submit some work to Matt Nelson for professional feedback - as far as I know he hasn't.

 

The fact remains he is damaging key books and continues to do so even after being told not to. And charging people for it.

 

His attitude stinks, he has already said he doesn't care what people think he'll carry on regardless. He'll learn nothing that way.

 

Actually he did contact me and we spoke at length several times. I offered practical advice to questions asked if I was able, but many times what I know is not mine to relate and made that clear up front. I gave him several links on where to buy different archival supplies which he did, and what to research to learn about paper, blotting and other techniques.

 

In the end I just felt Mikes passion far outweighed his common sense. I have NO problem with his desire to learn, I admire that but would question his ability to leave things untouched if he was not sure what the results would be. Not to mention doing things to a book that are completely unnecessary. Taking things slow was my advice, learn one process, master it and go from there then work your way towards more expensive books. I literally spent years practicing on beaters before moving on to books of worth. So when I logged on to see that ruined pressed book Mike posted I realized my words fell on deaf ears.

 

I have no problem with people experimenting with pressing/resto on reader comics because it is the ONLY way to really learn. What I have a HUGE problem with is when they sell books they practiced on that are in worse shape then before they started. That to me is the difference. Chastising someone for trying something new IS unfair, chastising them for offering a service without knowing what it is they are attempting is altogether different.

 

And to BR, I keep hearing you talking about wanting a "no axe to grind" pictorial expose on "how to press comics" But in the same breath you mention how the cabal of high priest presstorationists are unwilling to do so. How are exactly is that kind of comment supposed to be taken as constructive or un biased? You said yourself that pressing isn't rocket science yet you have not taken it upon yourself to learn even the most basic principles of pressing firsthand, the basics of how to do it safely are littered throughout this forum. Which is basically to use common sense and err on the side of caution.

 

True, I have a built in bias and it's been hard to change, but slowly, with the help of people like joeypost, I feel that the bias can be undone. I just felt like there is a huge effort to chastise/lecture amateurs for wading in the waters, yet, a very small amount of effort goes towards informing on specifics. Knowledge and explicit understanding opens doors, IMO.

 

 

You even went as far as asking people to give you a list of what types of presses are out there when all that info is just a click away on the Internet.

 

Correct, and I did a survey before asking. However, there is not much descriptive information regarding application to comics, as presses are intended to be used for lamination/mounting photographs. There are also a wide range of presses available to chose from. I consider myself to be good at gathering research, however, if I've missed a manufacturer site that explicitly refers to pressing comics, please post the link. I'm sure you can understand how first hand experience might trump a google search on this one.

 

My advice would be to buy a press, see what you can learn like others did through trial and error because all a "how to press books" pictorial thread would do is create even more casual pressers who otherwise would not have tried.

 

That's one possibility. Another, is that the amateurs might not make mistakes, and the fence sitters might make a more informed decision about their opinions.

[FFB]

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the high priests of pressing to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative. And thanks for putting the disclosure concept to practical use.

 

Zero pragmatic advice?? Have you even read the "How to detect restoration" thread? You are a spoon.

[bronze_rules]

I agree that is better to learn on a cheap books.

That being said, what I find interesting, is that so far, he has shared far more empirical examples of his learning curve than the entire cabal of high priest presstorationists on this board combined. You guys sit there and yell out how wrong everything is, yet offer zero pragmatic advice to anyone looking to legitimately learn the art. And please don't give this spiel about how it takes many years of experience, blah blah. This isn't exactly neurosurgery.

 

I challenge one of the high priests of pressing to come up with a thread outlining the step by step details of 'proper' pressing and restoration techniques. MasterCPU, thanks for 'sharing' your black light work, it was informative. And thanks for putting the disclosure concept to practical use.

 

Zero pragmatic advice?? Have you even read the "How to detect restoration" thread? You are a spoon.

 

The king patronizer chimes in. Thanks for your caustic character diatribes, precisely the condescending attitude I was referring to.

[chrisco37]

Try emailing Reynold Jay.

 

He's one of the pressing pioneers. He was offering his "CGC Prep" service way before we (the boards) were having the pressing discussion.

 

Once those discussions got underway, I emailed him and asked him about his prep service and dry pressing. He was very forthcoming. This was many years and, unfortunately, I don't have those emails anymore and don't recall much of the details (other than pressing could be done alot quicker than we originally thought).

 

 

[Sal]

asking any forumites to explicitly explain the processes they've invested their own time and sweat into discovering seems a bit remora-ish to me.

 

if i wanted to learn about pressing, i'd pm someone and ask me what they did to learn and if they could've done anything different, what would that have been...

 

 

but that's just me