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Update: Storing Comics in Safes
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51 posts in this topic

Recently I received a PM from Mintcollector about this topic (and other related questions) and tried to respond in the original locked thread below. I'm not sure why it was locked?, but I've included the link if anyone wishes to reference it. So, I'm forced to start a new thread.

 

Original Locked Thread on Fireproof Safes and Comic Storage

 

Following the unfortunate incident in 2006, I decided to test storing (much less valuable) CGC comics in the same fireproof safe (with desiccant) -- since there seemed to be some uncertainty as to the actual hazard a "fireproof" safe, in particular, presented. There was an assertion at the time from another "fireproof" safe owner (that used some sort of desiccant) in which he declared he had experienced no such problems while using a fireproof safe with a desiccant.

 

Even though the damage to my books appeared to be *corrosive* (not just rust) -- I had not been using any desiccant at all. I was oblivious to the need unfortunately. Anyway, I purchased reusable desiccant products from "Eva-Dry" (see pic below) and carefully monitored the books within that same fireproof safe. After 4+ years now, I've had no problems at all. I now believe that the "fireproof" aspect of the safe's construction (whatever is added that is not present in "non-fireproof" safes - possibly chemicals and/or insulation) has little to no impact *IF* a proper desiccant product is being used and maintained*. The apparent corrosive appearance of the staples suffered on some of my CGC books may just have been typical advanced rust decay -- or even possibly an additional unknown reaction to the air-freshener I also had within my safe but did not consider to be relevant at the time. Maybe it was, especially combined with the humidity that built within.

 

Anyway, the most important factor here is proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I believe the "Eva-Dry" products to be very effective and affordable -- and convenient too. I originally bought an intermediate model (EDV-300) which I had to service approximately every 3 weeks. Later, I bought the (High Capacity) model that can go for 6-8 weeks (in the size safe I have).

 

After these Eva-Dry products become saturated with moisture, the silica within turns a different color to alert you (pink for moist, blue for dry). The size of the safe will impact the "service timing" needed. I emphasize that you will need to check the units manually and develop your own "check schedule" depending on the unit purchased, conditions around the safe, and size of your safe. Once saturated, you simply plug them in, they heat up, dry out, and are ready again to absorb moisture -- after they cool down. I now use both units in my safe as they don't take up much room and I can go 2 months+ without thinking about it.

 

I was also asked about "safety deposit boxes". I researched that option too (years back) and the bottom line seems to be the individual conditions that are (or are not) maintained by the provider. Having a stable, reasonable temperature is obviously important, but so is the humidity control. Anyone considering this option should obtain the exact specifics from the provider. If the answers are not clear -- I'd be cautious.

 

I'll answer any questions I can -- if anyone has any.

 

*It is a fact that some (possibly all) "fireproof / fire resistant" safes are prone to develop >more< moisture than "non-fireproof" safes since many contain insulation, which in turn, contains water crystals; thus the high content of moisture.

 

109222.jpg.786bb553a4b0dab46c87ce250247a8ad.jpg

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Thanks for the update. I have been using the High Capacity Eva Dry in my fireproof safe for about a year now. I really like it, though I've only had to reharge it twice since getting it.

My safe is in the basement and I have a dehumidifier going year round so maybe this helps. My dehumidifier has a digital display of the current humidity in the air. Interestingly enough, the humidity in the safe usually matches the humidity in the air exactly, leading me to conclude the humidity in the safe is influenced by the environment.

I also periodically open up the safe and turn a fan on it = completely recycling the air inside the safe. It sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't. I consider it part of the curator responsibilities of having a collection.

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Be interesting to know how stable page quality is in a fireproof safe.

 

I've had my fireproof safe for over 10 years. I'm a page quality collector and I constantly spot check my books for any rust or PQ problems. Everything seems fine. As mentioned my safe is in the basement so the climate is always leaning on the humid side but safely within range because of my dehumidifier. In general, I think the pages like the humid air better as long as the air is on the cool side.

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Hello,

 

I am mintcollector and I just wanted to thank BronzeBruce13 for taking the time to post this and answer my questions. I sent him a private message after finding his unfortunate experience while 'lurking' on these forums. I am primarily a currency/paper money collector who happens to also collect high grade CGC graded comic books as well. I rent a safe deposit box for my graded paper money, but wanted to know what was best for my CGC graded comic books; in the way of home safes. I did not mean to 'open any old wounds,' and I really thank him for taking the time to answer this question for me.

 

May God bless all of you!

 

PS: I really like these forums, and when I get time I do 'lurk' here and love the fact that everyone here truly has a love for this hobby as well. I do buy here and there, and am currently getting ready to bid in the latest Comic Link auction. My main interest however, is with coins and currency. Thank you all for your time and help in this matter!

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Thanks for the update Bruce :applause:

 

I believe it all boils down to proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I also have a gun safe setup to store my books and guns.

 

The safe itself is in a climate controlled room in my house and I normally keep the door of the safe open when I'm in the room which is quite often as this is my office. I'm also not willing to take any chances and I'm a big fan of the "Eva-Dry" products as many of my friends use them in their gun safes to prevent their guns from rusting.

 

I personally begun using the "Eva-Dry" E-333 model about 3-4 wks ago and I have yet to recharge it. These are relatively inexpensive and can be bought for under $20 on amazon.com, this is definitely a no brainer IMO.

 

DSCN3713.jpg

 

DSCN3714.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the update Bruce :applause:

 

I believe it all boils down to proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I also have a gun safe setup to store my books and guns.

 

The safe itself is in a climate controlled room in my house and I normally keep the door of the safe open when I'm in the room which is quite often as this is my office. I'm also not willing to take any chances and I'm a big fan of the "Eva-Dry" products as many of my friends use them in their gun safes to prevent their guns from rusting.

 

I personally begun using the "Eva-Dry" E-333 model about 3-4 wks ago and I have yet to recharge it. These are relatively inexpensive and can be bought for under $20 on amazon.com, this is definitely a no brainer IMO.

 

DSCN3713.jpg

 

DSCN3714.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Memo to self. Stay on Count's good side. Do not take him up on offer to carpool to the post office.

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Thanks to all for contributing their related experiences and advice.

 

Hopefully, other collectors looking to purchase and use any type of safe for their collectibles (and or guns) will avoid the missteps I encountered by referencing this thread and others.

 

And, Mintcollector, no "old wounds" opened here... I'm happy to have helped. Welcome to the boards.

 

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Thanks for the update Bruce :applause:

 

I believe it all boils down to proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I also have a gun safe setup to store my books and guns.

 

The safe itself is in a climate controlled room in my house and I normally keep the door of the safe open when I'm in the room which is quite often as this is my office. I'm also not willing to take any chances and I'm a big fan of the "Eva-Dry" products as many of my friends use them in their gun safes to prevent their guns from rusting.

 

I personally begun using the "Eva-Dry" E-333 model about 3-4 wks ago and I have yet to recharge it. These are relatively inexpensive and can be bought for under $20 on amazon.com, this is definitely a no brainer IMO.

 

DSCN3713.jpg

 

DSCN3714.jpg

 

 

Memo to self. Stay on Count's good side. Do not take him up on offer to carpool to the post office.

 

lol Seriously, and a very clever way to "dissuade" potential comic thieves from considering a break-in at his location.

 

Did I mention? -- I just started collecting old hand-grenades too. You know, the really unstable ones that could easily go off from opening a safe -- or from even thinking of touching a CGC book within.

:cool:

 

 

 

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After reviewing the original thread, I added this information (from Steve Borock's research) to my first post so I don't inadvertently give the impression that "fireproof / fire resistant" safes present no threat at all compared to "non-fireproof / fire resistant" safes. They can develop, and/or hold higher amounts of humidity/moisture. This makes proper/consistent desiccant maintenance all that more important when using them.

 

*It is a fact that some (possibly all) "fireproof / fire resistant" safes are prone to develop >more< moisture than "non-fireproof" safes since many contain insulation, which in turn, contains water crystals; thus the high content of moisture.

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Thanks for the update Bruce :applause:

 

I believe it all boils down to proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I also have a gun safe setup to store my books and guns.

 

The safe itself is in a climate controlled room in my house and I normally keep the door of the safe open when I'm in the room which is quite often as this is my office. I'm also not willing to take any chances and I'm a big fan of the "Eva-Dry" products as many of my friends use them in their gun safes to prevent their guns from rusting.

 

I personally begun using the "Eva-Dry" E-333 model about 3-4 wks ago and I have yet to recharge it. These are relatively inexpensive and can be bought for under $20 on amazon.com, this is definitely a no brainer IMO.

 

 

 

Memo to self. Stay on Count's good side. Do not take him up on offer to carpool to the post office.

 

lol Seriously, and a very clever way to "dissuade" potential comic thieves from considering a break-in at his location.

 

Did I mention? -- I just started collecting old hand-grenades too. You know, the really unstable ones that could easily go off from opening a safe -- or from even thinking of touching a CGC book within.

:cool:

 

 

 

lol

 

I was actually contemplating getting this sticker from my safe manufacturer..

 

s17_g49.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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On 2/12/2011 at 11:36 PM, BronzeBruce13 said:

Recently I received a PM from Mintcollector about this topic (and other related questions) and tried to respond in the original locked thread below. I'm not sure why it was locked?, but I've included the link if anyone wishes to reference it. So, I'm forced to start a new thread.

 

Original Locked Thread on Fireproof Safes and Comic Storage

 

Following the unfortunate incident in 2006, I decided to test storing (much less valuable) CGC comics in the same fireproof safe (with desiccant) -- since there seemed to be some uncertainty as to the actual hazard a "fireproof" safe, in particular, presented. There was an assertion at the time from another "fireproof" safe owner (that used some sort of desiccant) in which he declared he had experienced no such problems while using a fireproof safe with a desiccant.

 

Even though the damage to my books appeared to be *corrosive* (not just rust) -- I had not been using any desiccant at all. I was oblivious to the need unfortunately. Anyway, I purchased reusable desiccant products from "Eva-Dry" (see pic below) and carefully monitored the books within that same fireproof safe. After 4+ years now, I've had no problems at all. I now believe that the "fireproof" aspect of the safe's construction (whatever is added that is not present in "non-fireproof" safes - possibly chemicals and/or insulation) has little to no impact *IF* a proper desiccant product is being used and maintained*. The apparent corrosive appearance of the staples suffered on some of my CGC books may just have been typical advanced rust decay -- or even possibly an additional unknown reaction to the air-freshener I also had within my safe but did not consider to be relevant at the time. Maybe it was, especially combined with the humidity that built within.

 

Anyway, the most important factor here is proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I believe the "Eva-Dry" products to be very effective and affordable -- and convenient too. I originally bought an intermediate model (EDV-300) which I had to service approximately every 3 weeks. Later, I bought the (High Capacity) model that can go for 6-8 weeks (in the size safe I have).

 

After these Eva-Dry products become saturated with moisture, the silica within turns a different color to alert you (pink for moist, blue for dry). The size of the safe will impact the "service timing" needed. I emphasize that you will need to check the units manually and develop your own "check schedule" depending on the unit purchased, conditions around the safe, and size of your safe. Once saturated, you simply plug them in, they heat up, dry out, and are ready again to absorb moisture -- after they cool down. I now use both units in my safe as they don't take up much room and I can go 2 months+ without thinking about it.

I know that this thread is ancient, but I wanted to just say thank you for the valuable information provided. I have just ordered a fireproof safe for keeping 15-20 of my books safe (mostly from thieves) and I just went on and purchased an Eva-Dry 333 product to keep a close eye to the humidity levels.

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On 2/12/2011 at 11:36 PM, BronzeBruce13 said:

The apparent corrosive appearance of the staples suffered on some of my CGC books may just have been typical advanced rust decay -- or even possibly an additional unknown reaction to the air-freshener I also had within my safe but did not consider to be relevant at the time. Maybe it was, especially combined with the humidity that built within.

I am also just curious about the "air-freshener" thing you mention. What kind were you actually using? For my ears it sounds that such an added substance in a very closed environment might be the number one suspect to react with so sensitive material like old paper and metal.

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I use a goldenrod (https://www.amazon.com/Goldenrod-725721-GoldenRod-Original-Dehumidifier/dp/B00D1WYXR0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506948585&sr=8-5&keywords=gun+safe+rod) & large DampRid in my gun safe. I REALLY want to put my books in the safe, but am not convinced it's a good environment. I keep a digital hygrometer that, aside from real-time temp/humidity, records min/max values. I just checked and min/max temps over the past month were 65/83 degrees, and relative humidity readings were 45/52. I think the humidity is ok, but the temp swing is too wide for books, right? Probably from the goldenrod, which generates heat...

What do y'all think? Okay for my books? Or no bueno...?

Edited by Callaway29
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I struggle with all this as well. I would really like to get a medium sized gun safe for a variety of valuables, including my best books. I'm encouraged that the dehumidification products seem to work well, so I may have to take the plunge on this sometime soon.

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