Grading - at the low side....

[Soft-Serve]

Ok,

 

I'm trying to get grading down. So far I'm doing pretty good guessing before I see what you more-seasoned pros are giving over in the Spare-a-Grade forum.

 

Where it breaks down for me is sub-3.0. Some things seem very subjective and interpretive.

 

These days I've been buying up a lot of antique store boxes and closet hoards that, while very interesting and rare in some case, always in low, low grade. I want to be precise when grading them, even if it only means the difference in a few dollar value. Perhaps some of you can elaborate on some of these issues for me:

-Is a full spine-split and automatic 0.5? (even if the book looks pretty decent otherwise)

 

-is a comic sans a cover 0.5 as well? If so, why is a copy with a cover (albeit detached/split) the same grade?

-is one detached staple an automatic 2.0?

-What if all staples are attached technically, but barely hanging on by one side (almost like the paper under the staple was slid back under even though the side is torn)

 

-Worm eaten corners, treat like missing corners? (ex: I have an Iron Man #55 that is in VG shape except the lrc has a worm hole through all pages.

 

I'll have more questions, but these will get me started. Thanks in advance!

 

[shadroch]

1) No.

2)you can grade the rest of the comic seperatley, but a coverless comic will sell like a 0.5 in most cases

3) No

4) depends on many other factors

5) To me, a book with serious insect or rodent damge can grade no more than a 1.5.

[Tony S]

1) No.

2)you can grade the rest of the comic seperatley, but a coverless comic will sell like a 0.5 in most cases

3) No

4) depends on many other factors

5) To me, a book with serious insect or rodent damge can grade no more than a 1.5.

 

Jeez. Shadroch so nails the answer there isn't much else to say...

I think I saw a full spine split book at 1.8. I don't know if it's possible to do better than that or not.

+1

[Soft-Serve]

I should clarify regarding the rodent damage. I have a few books where a good 1" radius section of the corner has been chewed off. I would consider that extensive. in contrast, the Iron Man #55 I have has a single hole (open to the edge), about 1/8" or so. I realize a scan is in order here, but I don't have one handy yet.

 

Re. a spine split, when is it not a 0.5? (assuming both covers are separated from themselves and the interior.)

 

One of the reasons I'm asking these questions is based on my experience with Comebase16's Grading Wizard. (comic book cataloging program preferences aside please)

 

When playing with different options, some will net you a certain grade regardless of the other factors.

 

For Example: (assuming all other aspects are perfect)

 

-Rusted Staples - 2.0

 

-Split spine (full) - 0.5

 

-2" Cover Tear (full or in total) - 1.0

 

-Small date stamp/intials - 8.0

 

-Tape (2" total w/yellowing) - 2.0

 

-Rounded Corners - 2.0

 

-Replaced Staples - 3.0

 

 

 

[Soft-Serve]

*I realize that, while these grades seem rather broad-stroked for the given defect, I must assume that the presence of one assumes that other defects exist too. While this might be true 90% of the time, some books have rather nice eye appeal if it weren't for one thing.... and sometimes that one thing will drop you to a 1.0 (according to CB16)

[Soft-Serve]

[jmg3637]

how about water damage

 

from sever

 

 

to minor

 

[shadroch]

For me, if the book has the slightest water stain, it can't be more than a 6.0.

That would be an otherwise 9.2 book with the slightest stainw ould get a 6.0.

A book that would be a VF but for water stain gets a 4.0-4.5.

If water damage causes rippled covers, 3.0 at best.

 

 

I'd call that IM 55 no better than a 3.9

[Soft-Serve]

Thanks for the grade on the Iron Man #55. I was concerned about the crunched upper corner, but I would bet it would iron out well. I'm happy with that grade. Still a pretty good return on a $4 comic!

[Lunchbox-migration]

-is a comic sans a cover 0.5 as well? If so, why is a copy with a cover (albeit detached/split) the same grade?

 

The reason for this is because CGC had to fudge the grades to make their numerical system work. That's why we have the grade of 1.8. You'll notice that the higher grades all have either +/- or split grades (which are BS to start with). But you know an 8.5 is a VF+ and a 9.0 is VF/NM. Well, before CGC the lower grades used to be just like that too, and some of the better low-grade sellers still use the terminology. Why doesn't CGC have a FR+? Or a FR-? Because it doesn't fit neatly on a 10 point scale. So that's why books that don't look similar at all (or coverless vs having a cover) can receive the same exact grade.

 

CGC is all about the high grade, they just lump the low grade stuff together. But good dealers can tell a FR+ from a GD - (there shouldn't be a split grade between them either).

[Soft-Serve]

Thanks for that clarifcation, it helps clear things up quite a bit. Since I'm mostly a low-grade collector right now, it matters.