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Grading differences

31 posts in this topic

the best advice given in my opinion is to check out Heritage Auctions as this is free. They have very large hi resolution images of the books they list. Pick a book that has been graded a lot and open 9.9, 9.8. 9.6 and 9.4 copies and compare.

 

Images on the internet vs. having the book in hand is a completely different thing. Small indents can't be seen in a scan. The interior of the book is also graded by CGC and you can not see that in a scan.

 

Buying cgc 9.2-9.8 copies of books to compare isn't a terrible suggestion but I would only do so if you are collecting the books as it could get expensive. If you do go ahead with buying multiple graded copies of books to learn grading then you really need to buy graded copies of the exact same book so you can see the differences more readily.

 

One last comment: Even if you do all of the above and become reasonably good at grading there will always be exceptions to the rules and your grade may not be the same as another person or even CGC. We are all human after all and CGC makes mistakes.

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I'm so strict in my grading that my G is most people's NM. My VG is most people's Gem Mint. I once sent one of my VGs to CGC and they gave it a 12.0. lol

 

Now THAT'S my kind of grader! :headbang:

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does the book have sharp corners, shiny, no dents...its a 9.8

 

does it look like the book above, but have a small dent knick in on the spine that doesn't break color? now your at a 9.6

 

The 1st example would be a 10.0 - the second example would still be a 9.8.

You skipped 9.9

 

Oh how I wish it were just that simple but it isn't. With CGC anything graded above 9.6 is all over the map with varying degrees of minute defects. You can try to use the Overstreet guide but often a CGC 9.8 still has more defects than what the allowable amount on the Overstreet chart shows.

And then the biggest mind-screw is what constitutes as a major defect vs minor defect vs production defect to them. And you know pressing shifted everything downward.

 

Take the bindery tears for example. Is this considered a minor defect or production defect? Which gets dinged harder? You can certainly find 9.8's with bindery tears but you can also find 9.6's with bindery tears and no other defects. Does a bindery tear carry more weight than 1 NCB spine tick? What about 2 or 3? You can certainly find a 9.8 with CB spine ticks in the middle of the spine. How'd that happen?

 

How about:

chart_zps5927ffbd.jpg

NCB = Non-Color Break

CB = Color Break

spine tick = slightest hint of a bend/dent only visible by angling the spine to the light. Visible using an LED flash light or a jewelers loop.

 

Honestly I feel like anything graded a 9.2 and above should only have defects that are pressable and no production defects even though I listed a couple. But I suppose then everytihng 9.2 and above would be quickly upgraded to a 9.8 and there would be no 9.2-9.6's in existence. Which means that you would just have 9.9's at MT, 9.8's at NM, and 9.0 and VF/NM

 

But if even if you could find a book that looks flawless after putting it under the 20 minute microscope test, don't bet on it always coming back as a 9.9 or 10. CGC will still likely give it a 9.8 and put it in the same class as 9.8's with binder defects or spine ticks.

 

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You have way too much time on your hands. I suggest getting a girlfriend or a job . . . or both :roflmao:

 

This is how I escape both of those and not get into trouble while on travel! :whee:

 

The point is CGC or anyone who considers themselves a grader SHOULD put at least this much time into it to stay consistent with their grades >ahem< CGC. :baiting:

 

TAT's be damned!

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You bring up a good point about anything above a 9.2 should be pressable.

 

In today's world...is every 9.6 a potential to be a pressed 9.8?

 

Not in the slightest. I've seen a ton of 9.6s with color breaking spine ticks - in those cases a press wouldn't do anything to the grade.

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You bring up a good point about anything above a 9.2 should be pressable.

 

In today's world...is every 9.6 a potential to be a pressed 9.8?

 

Not in the slightest. I've seen a ton of 9.6s with color breaking spine ticks - in those cases a press wouldn't do anything to the grade.

+1

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You have way too much time on your hands. I suggest getting a girlfriend or a job . . . or both :roflmao:

 

This is how I escape both of those and not get into trouble while on travel! :whee:

 

The point is CGC or anyone who considers themselves a grader SHOULD put at least this much time into it to stay consistent with their grades >ahem< CGC. :baiting:

 

TAT's be damned!

 

And.....too much time to find defects real closer to the book will lead you to the reading glasses. Just stay away from it.

 

Irish proverb said...sleeping and laughing are the best medicine.

 

zzz and :roflmao:

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He won't allow anything higher than VF/NM listed, because of people complaining about the smallest defects.

 

The rallying cry of shop owners who don't want to learn how to grade or don't like to grade tight because it means losing some revenue. I've never understood shop owners that don't understand why people nitpick small defects - buying an accurately graded book is the cornerstone of the hobby.

 

I keep a digital archive of graded books that I can see visible defects in the scans. For instance, I have several examples of 9.6s with one spine tick, or 8.5s with staple stress, etc.

 

Since I don't collect many CGC slabs, I compare these digital examples to OSPG guidelines to confirm my idea of what the grade should be.

 

I think looking at how both companies define their grades gives you an accurate, well-rounded ability to grade. It takes lots and lots and lots of practice, but if you're into the hobby, grading is part of the enjoyment. I'm not perfect by any means, but I try to expend the effort to grade accurately.

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