• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

What's the lowest grade you would buy for Silver age comics?

67 posts in this topic

I would like to collect runs of my favorite Marvel and DC silver age comics and would prefer 9.4 or better, but these books are just TOO expensive----just to collect one of the runs would be > $100,0000 minimum!! Besides the major keys, what is the minimum grade (CGC or Raw) that you would buy---and please comment on whether you buy for enjoyment + investment or for just enjoyment.

johnny

 

P.S.---And unfortunately even if I had $100,000, it still would be impossible to find some of these books in high-grade Christo_pull_hair.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I'm buying, then it's for my collection...unless it's a bulk purchase , then there would be some flipping going on.

 

In the past I've bought plenty of VG/VG+ 's and was happy to have them. Of course that was frequently all I could find or afford back then. Even bought a CGC VG+ of Sgt. Fury #13 a couple of months ago.....but generally if it's after 1963, I try to find a F/VF at minimum, with VF/NM as a starting goal. Pre-1963 then I'm less picky.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm happy to have the books to read and enjoy.

 

If I'm concerned about re-sale, I go for the highest grade I can afford which is usually NM 9.2 Golden Age.

 

If it's for my collection I'll Shoot for VF 8.0. I find with GA books, if you buy in lower grade than 8.0, there tends to be a major defect that can be very distracting. Although there are mny exceptions where a CGC 4.0 is a great appealing book, or even a CGC 2.5 Marvel Mystery as I recently purchased.

 

Having a reading copy is a must for me on most if not all of my slabbed books. I hate the idea of cracking a slab (losing inferred value) if I don't have to. Now on a low grade GA book, I'll crack away, but on SA books like CGC 6.0 etc....I'll just leave them be in the slabs. They are common enought not to worry about anyway and getting a reader is not difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

P.S.---And unfortunately even if I had $100,000, it still would be impossible to find some of these books in high-grade Christo_pull_hair.gif

If you`re talking about SA DC, you`re correct because some issues simply don`t exist in grade. If you`re talking about Marvel, the following are the only ones I would say are really impossible to buy in slabbed 9.4 or higher even if you had $100,000:

 

AF 15 (goes for more than $100K)

FF 1 (goes for more than $100K)

Hulk 1 (only 1 known copy, and it would definitely go for more than $100K)

 

FF 3 and TTA 35 are virtually impossible to find in 9.4 or above, but the owners are known and I imagine for $100K they could probably be pried away from their owners. I can`t think of any other Marvels that would present a similar challenge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends upon which kind of collector you are i would say. Me, im a completionist, and without the 100K you were referring to its not possible for me to even dream of owning a full SA run on DD, X-men, TOS etc. in CGC 9.4 or better. Althoug these are common enough to to be located, eventually. I would shoot for VF+8.5 on the books in the SA i like the best, often based on artist/cover/1st appearance, and the rest i would shoot at getting a 6.0 min on the filler copies i mainly buy because i MUST have a complete run. Thats the case on my X.-men, on the TOS i tend to go for 7.0 min on the later issues, regardless of which, cause there are tons to be aquired at discounts off guide.

 

I have in the past, and are still aquiring SA books as low as 4.0 for filling gaps if funds are low. Eventually they would have to be opgraded as time goes by, but i often have great fun with my VG SA books for reading and flipping through before they get upgraded. I would only buy slaps on SA if minimum 9.0 unless its a major key, and i would only do that on my favorite books in the run

 

 

Thanks for asking thumbsup2.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why is TTA 35 so tough? You saying it's worth more then 27 confused.gif

Well, I`m cheating a bit. There`s only 1 known copy of TTA 27 in 9.4, but it happens to be available. There`s also only 1 known copy of TTA 35 (9.6 Western Penn copy) with the second best known copy only a 9.0, and as far as I know it`s not for sale, which is why I rank #35 higher for degree of difficulty.

 

TTA 27 has always been notoriously difficult in HG, perhaps only second to IH #1, but long-time collectors will tell you that #35 is just as hard, but has never been as publicized because it`s not as high profile a book.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the book...So many people say they prefer high grade, but lets be realistic. Not many people will be able to get a high grade AF 15,FF1, and so on..

With that said, high $ books I prefer to get 3.0 or higher and with the later silver age books 8.0 or better..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tth2,

you are right about the DC silver age books! Extremely hard to find in 9.4 or better.

I can't even find a JLA #1 in CGC 8.0 or better for sale. Christo_pull_hair.gif

FF early issues are also very difficult to find in 9.4 or better. That also goes for

TOS. And even when you find them for sale, even minor keys like JIM #112 CGC 9.6 selling for over $14,000 is ...... confused-smiley-013.gifconfused-smiley-013.gif

johnny

 

P.S.--by the way, very nice JLA high-grade books (saw them on one of the threads). And BB #28 hail.gifhail.gifhail.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a raw reader: 4.0 or 5.0.

CGC 8.5 to wherever affordability ends (9.4 or 9.6).

 

The raw copies do need to be unrestored with firmly attached covers and centrefolds --without spine splits. The folds and tiny tears don't really matter if these books are solid and can bear repeated reading.

 

I limit the CGC to copies with white paper and without miswraps or staples off the spine. I also take a close look (as best you can with scans) to see the the copy is a good example of its grade. If I am very picky about the quality of production -- it helps limit the number of books that are candidates for the collection -- eases the strain on the pocket book -- and increases the pride of ownership.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it correct to say that most collectors are looking for at least 8.0/8.5 or better on most silver age books (except the very expensive major keys)?

And that anything lower than 8.0, would be hard to sell for profit down the road.

 

Like Mad Dog, I would like to have a complete run and am trying to decide what minimum grade I would be happy with. I also want to at least break even when and if I decide to sell down the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it correct to say that most collectors are looking for at least 8.0/8.5 or better on most silver age books (except the very expensive major keys)?

And that anything lower than 8.0, would be hard to sell for profit down the road.

 

Like Mad Dog, I would like to have a complete run and am trying to decide what minimum grade I would be happy with. I also want to at least break even when and if I decide to sell down the road.

 

I think that would depend on what is more important to you. The grade or the title. For example, ASM or FF are very expensive in high grade while Avengers and DD are "relative" bargins. If your sole objective is to complete a high grade run (i.e 8.0 or higher), then your best bet is to go with the latter titles or something similar. But if you want one of the more popular titles then I'd settle for a lower grade (3.0-4.0) book with good eye appeal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites