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9.6 OW/W + pedigree vs 9.6 W

18 posts in this topic

For the sake of the example, early bronze spidey, non-key. Which would YOU take and why? I know a lot of this boils down to personal preference, but I'd love to hear opinions.

 

Still coming to grips with the value a pedigree adds. Trying to wrap my head around it.

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9.6 White more often than not. If a side by side comparison shows all things (PQ, not production creases, centering, gloss) to be equal and the only difference is page quality, I would take the 9.6 white non-pedigree and probably save me some money.

 

I always thought that pedigrees were given the reverence they have been by the cognoscenti because they were the best copies known to exist with a quaint little story behind them to explain why many books from that particular collection are key and in the same well preserved condition. CGC coming in and grading other books with higher structural grades and page quality kind off knocks pedigrees from that "best copies extant" pedestal... just MHO...

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For the sake of the example, early bronze spidey, non-key. Which would YOU take and why? I know a lot of this boils down to personal preference, but I'd love to hear opinions.

 

Still coming to grips with the value a pedigree adds. Trying to wrap my head around it.

 

Who cares about a Bronze Age pedigree?

 

Besides, a lot about what is supposed to be great about pedigrees is their high page quality. I think that the characteristics of the book itself are more important than who owned it once.

 

This of course assumes that all other QP considerations (centering, miswraps) are equal.

 

***edited for clarity***

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I have been tracking a lot of books lately (mostly GA and SA pedigrees) and I would have to say that the importance of a pedigree is returning to the industry. What with the number of accusations of pressing and the like it is much harder to alter a book that has a pedigree and has been tracked since the time it hit the market.

 

I don't think we should under estimate the importance of provenance....

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I have been tracking a lot of books lately (mostly GA and SA pedigrees) and I would have to say that the importance of a pedigree is returning to the industry. What with the number of accusations of pressing and the like it is much harder to alter a book that has a pedigree and has been tracked since the time it hit the market.

 

I don't think we should under estimate the importance of provenance....

 

For a BRONZE AGE pedigree? No way. Gold and Silver, sure, no dispute. But Bronze Age? Come on.

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If you changed your example to Golden Age, I'd probably pick the pedigree with the slightly lesser page quality. There's a brilliance to the colors on a MH or SF book that appears positively battery operated. For me it's an easy trade off for slightly lesser page quality.

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I picked Bronze only because its all I can afford in really high grade. If I'm to put together a decent group of HG Spideys, I have to stay over 102. Shelling out $500+ for a 9.6W book under 100 isn't an option. Some day. =) I've run across pedigree books, winnipeg, pacific coast, MH II, in my perusing of the auction sites.

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I have been tracking a lot of books lately (mostly GA and SA pedigrees) and I would have to say that the importance of a pedigree is returning to the industry. What with the number of accusations of pressing and the like it is much harder to alter a book that has a pedigree and has been tracked since the time it hit the market.

 

I don't think we should under estimate the importance of provenance....

 

For a BRONZE AGE pedigree? No way. Gold and Silver, sure, no dispute. But Bronze Age? Come on.

 

I didn't say BA............... confused.gif

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Why do you have to buy 9.6's pre-100? 9.4's, 9.2's and 9.0's are all very nice.

 

Mushroom, I doubt the Cleveland collection ever gets pedigree status recognition from CGC. They don't have a master list for it, and there's no defining inherant characteristics of the books in order to be able to identify them.

 

Brian

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Why do you have to buy 9.6's pre-100? 9.4's, 9.2's and 9.0's are all very nice.

 

Mushroom, I doubt the Cleveland collection ever gets pedigree status recognition from CGC. They don't have a master list for it, and there's no defining inherant characteristics of the books in order to be able to identify them.

 

Brian

 

9.0s and 9.2s I'd rather buy non-slabbed and save the cash. I can pick out a decent 9.0 for considerably less than book from here or there, at least, I have in the past. Someone advertising a raw book as 9.6, on eBay for instance, is usually full of it. Will happily pay the premium CGC creates where I can afford it for the real HG stuff. But you are right. For now, I'm pretty damn happy with my 8.5-9.2s under 100.

 

And what little interest I have in slabbed books is pretty much limited to HG Spidey.

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For the sake of the example, early bronze spidey, non-key. Which would YOU take and why? I know a lot of this boils down to personal preference, but I'd love to hear opinions.

 

Still coming to grips with the value a pedigree adds. Trying to wrap my head around it.

 

I'd rather have the white. Pedigree personally doesn't mean a whole lot to me. A 9.6 is a 9.6 to me and I'd rather not pay a premium just to have one. Now if a person is into collecting certain pedigree's than I certainly understand paying a premium as it gives them a little something to make it tougher and perhaps more exciting to complete their collections.

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Another angle to look at is, resale. Books from the upper tier pedigrees usually bring in premiums above a regular counterpart. And I don't feel that the diff in OW-W to W is a well enough defined distinction to warrant any price premium paid for a W copy over a OW-W copy.

 

Brian

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For the sake of the example, early bronze spidey, non-key. Which would YOU take and why? I know a lot of this boils down to personal preference, but I'd love to hear opinions.

 

Still coming to grips with the value a pedigree adds. Trying to wrap my head around it.

 

Depends. I myself don't place any more value on the pedigree, but OWW is almost as good as W. I would look at the overall appearance of the book to make my final determination.

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