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Started by TXReplicant,

108 posts in this topic

THE_BEYONDER

THE_BEYONDER

Posted
Posted
COI says because pernts. Registry pernts.

 

There's that. If you're collecting competitively and you land a beautiful looking 9.6 with some hard to obtain signatures on it and then add it to your set, be prepared to be totally disheartened by the disgustingly low number of pernts you get.

 

The 1st step in solving a problem is realizing that you have one....

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loadstone

loadstone

Posted
Posted

Buy the book, not the label.

 

^^

 

I do and save money, but the hobby is not on this page yet. I looked at GPA on a book recently. 9.8 last sell was nearing $200. 9.6 last sale was $50ish. There can't be that big of a gap because of one-two defects.... but it's a real gap on some books. My word.... insanity.

 

I don't think I represent the majority of the hobby but I might make up a growing demographic of them. I'd love to "Buy the Book and Not the Label" but unless I'm holding the slab in my hands able to examine it closely on all sides, the only thing I can definitively see for sure is the label. On most auction sites, the scans of slabs (often 1-sided) graded 9.6 are virtually indistinguishable from higher grades but then when you do get them in hand you see their flaws in glaring splendor (this happens on 9.8's too but not as frequent or telltale). The difference is that 9.8's are easier to resell for close to purchase price, if not more, if you're dissatisfied and you usually don't have to pay shipping when reselling. So when buying online, I have to buy the label. The resto check and completeness check combined are worth the assurance.

 

Raws are great, too; I love them for handling and reading but due to bad past experiences I will only buy raws pre-modern and costing $30+ when I can see them in person and am allowed to examine them. I collect raws in more affordable grades but slabs for me are 9.8's and above for Bronze to Moderns and 3.x+ for earlier.

 

Now Mr. 9.6 here reminds me of what I've been contemplating. Hunting for undergraded books. Due to the inconsistency in CGC grading, 9.6's ARE worth buying/keeping for me when:

1. You can see the book in hand and examine it for acceptable flaws or 9.8 potential

2., It is priced right (undervalued because of the 9.6 grade) for it's condition

3. 9.8's are prohibitively expensive and a 9.6 is within reach

4. The market for the book is on the rise allowing you to flip the 9.6 or risk a resub allowing the equity to make up for the shipping/fees.

 

So what would I do in your position Mr. 9.6-lover? If it really looks that good to you, I'd keep the 9.6 as well. Keep both. You've got a sexy looking 9.8 in a 9.6 holder and a 9.6 in a 9.8 holder. Add the 9.8 to your collection and crack the 9.6 and hang it on the wall in a mylar. Might as well crack it open if you like because if it looks 9.8 to you, it might to the next grader or buyer allowing you to resub or sell it for more than the 9.6 slab price. Then at least you can examine it to find a flaw that merits the 9.6. Seriously, if that 9.6 label is the only thing that really bothers you, get rid of the label.

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sterlingcomics

sterlingcomics

Posted
Posted
Sequence of Events:

 

1. Bid $250 for a 9.6 and won (Figured I would be outbid)

2. Receive 9.6 and it looks A-mazing

3. Decide I'd like to upgrade to a 9.8 and sell the 9.6 (As my collection is 9.8+)

4. Purchase 9.8 for $400

5. Identify a local buyer for the 9.6 (Haven't met yet)

6. Receive 9.8

7. Compare side by side...

 

The 9.6 is clearly in better condition.

 

Tentative result:

 

I feel like I am selling the better book and keeping the lesser book I paid an extra $150 for.

 

Wish:

 

There was something we could do to bring the price of a 9.6 and 9.8 closer together as oftentimes one deserves the higher or lower grade.

 

Happened all the time to me during my frothing feverish LETTER UPGRADES--CGC isn't perfect. In a few cases I've decided to keep BOTH books. Now I vote with my eyes FIRST, grade SECOND.

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ItsJustRyan

ItsJustRyan

Posted
Posted

Buy the book, not the label.

 

^^

 

I do and save money, but the hobby is not on this page yet. I looked at GPA on a book recently. 9.8 last sell was nearing $200. 9.6 last sale was $50ish. There can't be that big of a gap because of one-two defects.... but it's a real gap on some books. My word.... insanity.

 

I don't think I represent the majority of the hobby but I might make up a growing demographic of them. I'd love to "Buy the Book and Not the Label" but unless I'm holding the slab in my hands able to examine it closely on all sides, the only thing I can definitively see for sure is the label. On most auction sites, the scans of slabs (often 1-sided) graded 9.6 are virtually indistinguishable from higher grades but then when you do get them in hand you see their flaws in glaring splendor (this happens on 9.8's too but not as frequent or telltale). The difference is that 9.8's are easier to resell for close to purchase price, if not more, if you're dissatisfied and you usually don't have to pay shipping when reselling. So when buying online, I have to buy the label. The resto check and completeness check combined are worth the assurance.

 

Raws are great, too; I love them for handling and reading but due to bad past experiences I will only buy raws pre-modern and costing $30+ when I can see them in person and am allowed to examine them. I collect raws in more affordable grades but slabs for me are 9.8's and above for Bronze to Moderns and 3.x+ for earlier.

 

Now Mr. 9.6 here reminds me of what I've been contemplating. Hunting for undergraded books. Due to the inconsistency in CGC grading, 9.6's ARE worth buying/keeping for me when:

1. You can see the book in hand and examine it for acceptable flaws or 9.8 potential

2., It is priced right (undervalued because of the 9.6 grade) for it's condition

3. 9.8's are prohibitively expensive and a 9.6 is within reach

4. The market for the book is on the rise allowing you to flip the 9.6 or risk a resub allowing the equity to make up for the shipping/fees.

 

So what would I do in your position Mr. 9.6-lover? If it really looks that good to you, I'd keep the 9.6 as well. Keep both. You've got a sexy looking 9.8 in a 9.6 holder and a 9.6 in a 9.8 holder. Add the 9.8 to your collection and crack the 9.6 and hang it on the wall in a mylar. Might as well crack it open if you like because if it looks 9.8 to you, it might to the next grader or buyer allowing you to resub or sell it for more than the 9.6 slab price. Then at least you can examine it to find a flaw that merits the 9.6. Seriously, if that 9.6 label is the only thing that really bothers you, get rid of the label.

 

Is Mr 9.6-Lover my new default nickname lol

 

I think you came near my point, but really all I'm getting at it that I think it's a little nutty to dismiss a book because its a 9.6 ( blasphemy to a 9.4 ), especially if it's for your PC and the flaws are really minor (almost unnoticeable without close scrutiny). Someone mention the long-term value of 9.6's when compared to 9.8 counterparts. The gist was:

 

If buy a 9.8 for your collection for $200 and the FMV gets cut in half, you've lost $100. On the other hand, if you buy a 9.6 for $100 and the FMV gets cut in half, you are only down $50. The reverse argument is that 9.8's have the potential to appreciate faster and higher.

 

That's the great thing about our hobby... There's room for everyone at the table regarding preferences and budget. For me - and depending on the book - I see a lot of value/ bang-for-your-buck in a lot of 9.6 (and even 9.4) books, simply because a certain percentage of the collectioning community will not bid on them.

 

My 2c

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MatterEaterLad

MatterEaterLad

Posted
Posted
Sequence of Events:

 

1. Bid $250 for a 9.6 and won (Figured I would be outbid)

2. Receive 9.6 and it looks A-mazing

3. Decide I'd like to upgrade to a 9.8 and sell the 9.6 (As my collection is 9.8+)

4. Purchase 9.8 for $400

5. Identify a local buyer for the 9.6 (Haven't met yet)

6. Receive 9.8

7. Compare side by side...

 

The 9.6 is clearly in better condition.

 

Tentative result:

 

I feel like I am selling the better book and keeping the lesser book I paid an extra $150 for.

 

Wish:

 

There was something we could do to bring the price of a 9.6 and 9.8 closer together as oftentimes one deserves the higher or lower grade.

 

Wouldn't it be cheaper (and easier) to just make your own labels for your comics, since that is all you're really collecting anyway?

 

That's what I did. I took some cracked-out cases, put my books in Mylites and stuck a label like this (printed at home) on top and taped it shut:

 

CGC.png

 

I did it so I could showcase them in my bookcase that holds CGC slabs.

 

 

We seriously need to start our own Balls-tastic NON-CGC grading and custom label company. Like craft beer, but for slabbed comics.

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Chespirito

Chespirito

Posted
Posted

That's what I did. I took some cracked-out cases, put my books in Mylites and stuck a label like this (printed at home) on top and taped it shut:

CGC.png

 

I did something similar to one of my most superestest favorite books, that just so happen to have multiple signatures....to me it was a 10...and oh'geez-golly, I gave it a 10!! I made and engraved a "Signature Series" wood slab... ;););):cool:

 

 

IMG_3146.jpg

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