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Everything posted by ne1seenmykeys

  1. I mean, yes and no, esp to the first part. Yes, in the sense that you want to determine the FMV of the ungraded version of that card. No, in the sense that you don't want to go to eBay and just look at what the Buy It Now listing prices for the card are. The reason you don't want to do that is bc (most of the time) people will list a selling price above what the FMV is. What you want to do instead is go to a site like 130point dot com and then type in your card (I always add "-psa -csg - sgc - bgs" on the end of my searches, too, so you an find the ungraded cards) and it will give you the price of the last sales through eBay, MySlabs etc. You can also go to eBay, type your card in and then click the "Sold" or "Sold Listings" button/tab and you can see the price of the latest sales there, although it won't always show you the accurate price of certain cards, so that's why I rely on 130point dot com, bc they have all the sales amounts. To the second part of your post, I have most def turned in cards to CSG that were above the listed FMV price that would increase my grading fee, but I have not been charged that increased grading fee one time. Unless you are turning in a card that is blatantly above that line (early Jordan refractors in great shape, a lot of low numbered card variations, etc) you will not be charged a fee. Also, Don't get too caught up on the FMV price. The reason they want to know that is for mailing insurance purposes. It's not so they can ding you on more grading fees. It's actually to protect you in the unfortunate event that your package gets lost/stolen/broken in the mail etc. It's purely a CYA maneuver. If you can't find the price of a card, just put the amount you would want the card insured for. If you have a card that is clearly above the FMV line to bring it up to another grading tier then they will actually contact you. Good luck with your submission!
  2. Bruh jfc there are CLEAR printer roller marks on the card. It is obvious as soon as you see the card. You're lucky they only dinged you what they did. This card is consistent with their grading. You just don't like the result.
  3. Nope, absolutely not. The printing numbers on those cards alone make them essentially worthless. Sorry to break it to you like this in this thread, but save yourself the money and only send in the cards you want to keep for yourself.
  4. If there is only one of these then you won't be able to find out ho much it's worth. How could you if there are no other sales of it (due to it being a 1/1)? There is not set value for cards. The value fluctuates based on several factors, but for players that are retired or dead (both in Puckett's case) the prices tend to stay around the same, all things considered equal. I don't even think this would fetch 150-200. I think around 100-120 would be more likely, simply bc it's Donruss (so they don't have the MLB license) and this subset is just not valued by anyone in the hobby at all.
  5. I couldn't agree more! Loving what the future is going to hold
  6. I'm going to slightly push back on this and say that Occam's Razor is at play here, and that I simply disagree with you. You have already admitted you aren't experienced in grading, right? CSG is established from a company that is literally *the* industry standard in comic book grading, they have *massive* financial backing from multiple arenas, use a very sophisticated AI grading process to make sure every card is graded to the same standard and they have, quite literally, at minimum, hundreds of employees with a combined tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of hours in the hobby. Also, after the AI does its thing it goes through a human quality assurance process, as well, so there are even checks and balances for any mistakes in the AI being too harsh for whatever reason. I'm not saying it's impossible that your card could have gotten an 8 or 8.5. What I'm saying is that I trust the word and (very) tough grades that CSG gives out. It really lets you know where your collection stands in terms of just how nice the cards are. If you have a high number-graded CSG collection you can rest assured that you have one of the best out there in terms of quality. But you have to earn it, and I'd say this card is exactly right at a 7.5 Look bro, this is a sick card. It looks great! And that set is notorious to have unfavorable grades as the years wear on, and people in the hobby know that. Here is the upside to this card - as the Fanatics takeover deepens and more money starts being thrown at CSG and the overall hobby starts to realize just how good CSG is the value of your card is going to start to rise immediately. Just be patient with that card, hold onto it for awhile and watch what happens to the value of CSG cards, even ones without subgrades, but especially Green Label CSG cards. There are now going to be a limited number of green label cards out there, so if you have one of the very few Jordan refractors in this card, making it a low population card, the value will only go up more (all things considered equal). I really hope my posts don't come off snooty or condescending. I'm really trying to help you out. I've been doing this for awhile and since you mentioned you're new to the game a bit I'd like to offer up as much help as I can. The other thing you could potentially do, esp if you are looking for return on investment right now, is send the card to PSA. They just opened up their $30 tier and they say the estimated turnaround time is 120 days (although, it's PSA so take that with a boulder of salt) so if it gets an 8 there you're looking at quite a bit more $ in return in the near future. Source - thousands of individual sales over the past 20+ years
  7. If you got that low of a grade on a card that otherwise looks great then it's the surface, guaranteed. CSG's algorithm places the greatest importance on surface so even if you have 9, 9, 9 but a 5 on surface you're still going to get like a 6-6.5 grade. On a card like this, not to be rude, but you GOTTA spring for the subgrades, esp at only $10 Plus, it'a a Topps Finest and they are absolutely renowned for fading, greening, etc. Also, I'm just being very honest with you here - without the card in hand, esp on surface issues, it's going to be impossible for any of us to tell.
  8. Bro it's only $10 extra for subs, not $40, so if that is what is holding you back then get the subs!
  9. As a Michigan fan, I love that Brady but hate that Kordell Stewart hahaha. The pass he made against us will forever go down as one of the most heartbreaking moments of my childhood. My dad had a subscription to SI at the time, and of course it was on the cover the next week - https://vault.si.com/vault/1994/10/03/i-just-heaved-it-kordell-stewarts-game-ending-64-yard-touchdown-pass-to-michael-westbrook-was-part-desperation-part-destiny-and-all-colorado-needed-to-stun-michigan What a player that guy was
  10. The answer to that question will literally always be "Do what makes you happy!", as it should be. And I'm really not trying to be insufferable here, but they are *your* cards. You do what you want with them! If grading them and keeping them preserved in the best condition they're going to be in makes you happy, then do it! If you feel like grading them bc you don't really want to keep the card, but you think it's got a great shot at grading high and getting you some return on your investment, then, again, do it! If you like the look of the card itself and want to keep it but not worry about the "hassle" of getting it graded, then order a one-touch case for it and put that baby on a shelf! I think what a lot of you are *really* asking is the following - "Could someone that knows what they're talking about please look at this (most of the time not so great) photo of my card and tell me what grade you think it will get, therefore cluing me into whether I can make any money off of it?" If that is the case, then just make a post that says, "Could a hobby veteran check out my card?" or something like that. You get my drift. But, my main point here is this - no matter what it is when it comes to *your* cards, at the end of the day, while it's great to educate yourself as much as possible, YOU are going to have to decide what to do with YOUR cards. No one else can do that for you. I hope this post is taken with the knowledge that it is intended with. I'm not trying to sour anyone from asking questions, but coming to these boards and just asking "Should I get this graded" with zero explanation of what your intent is, etc is, to me, unfair to whom you are asking these questions.
  11. I wouldn't, bc he's in his Oregon jersey (nobody wants that except Oregon fans....maybe??), it's from a really undesirable set and if I'm being honest with you I can't personally stand any of the "Game Ticket" cards. I think it's a cheap gimmick that doesn't work, but that's just my .02. Btw, I collect Herbert and I wouldn't touch this card. If you collect him, also, I have a graded RC of his /60 and it's auto'd. Graded PSA 9, as well, and I'm looking to sell it, so if you're interested send me a DM. There are others on these boards who can vouch for me and I can show you my eBay page that has just under a 100% rating after over 1000 transactions.
  12. The standards listed to get a Perfect Green were higher. It'll still be extremely difficult to get a Black Label Perfect 10, but a little easier than the Green Labels. I graded *way* over a thousand cards with CSG so far and I got *three* Green Label Perfect 10s, and I've been doing this for over 20 years so I def can pre-grade cards, etc. I don't miss that often, so getting a Perfect 10 at a rate under .003% was absolutely *wild* ETA: I'm not complaining, either, bc once the hobby catches up on how hard it is to get a Green Label Perfect 10 I assume the value of those cards will shoot up, all things considered equal.
  13. I know I'm late to the party here, and excuse me for that, but I agree with literally everything you are saying here. I am holding onto every single one of my Green Label Pristine 10s bc, as you said, they are even harder to obtain than the new Black Label. Point being, I think that bc the general IQ in the hobby continues to rise - and esp amongst those that have been loyal to CSG from the beginning who fully fleshed this out - people realize there are now literally a set number of Green Label Perfect 10s, and that automatically will make them extremely scarce as the number of Black Label Perfect 10s hits into the 5 and 6-digit marks (once CSG fully takes off in 2-3+ years). I currently own three Green Label Perfect 10s and I will not be selling them any time soon. ETA: I listed my Pristine 10 stats when I meant to put my Perfect 10 stats. Doh!
  14. Couldn't agree more with this. Kinda like how the OG PSA labels from when they first started are so coveted now, I think once CSG takes off here in the next 2-3 years there will be a premium on the Green Label Pristines, of which I kept every single one of mine (11 in total). I am just gonna sit back and watch them climb in value then during the next bubble sell them.
  15. Wow, that is a big order and a great TaT, as well!!! This is so encouraging to see! I have a re-holder order that is now on its 22nd business day at CSG so I'm getting a little concerned, tbh. EDIT: SO today, the 24th business day for my re-holder order, it just went into Grading/Quality Control, so I know now that it's very close to coming back to me. This was for a 64-card re-holder so I can get them all in CSG 10s
  16. Yes, absolutely get that thing graded. He is going to retire as one of the greatest EPL and overall midfielders of all time, even if Belgium's Golden Era passes without a Cup title. If anything, preserve it for yourself and keep it away from light as much as possible. It's going to look sweeeeet in a CSG slab, too, with that color scheme. As far as turnaround time, go to CSG's page where they can show you the different times depending on what level you choose. Essentially, the higher you pay the quicker you'll get it back, but for this one I'd just send it at the cheapest level you can do and get it back when you get it back. Right now their turnaround times are incredible.
  17. Either way it's awesome to see such turnaround times now. I was at 120-130 days as little as 3-4 months ago so this is crazy haha.
  18. I'm going to copy/paste what I replied to someone earlier in the thread - "It's been explained to me before by multiple CSG reps that the "Grading/QC" status is once the grades have finalized but not been encapsulated yet, so it's like an "in-between" status before encapsulation. I'm not 100% sure why 1) they even have that step and 2) they don't explain that anywhere but it is what it is."
  19. WHile I appreciate you letting us know, I don't think the is the thread to share just that part of the submission process. If anything, I would call CSG to see what's going on bc that is really strange. The only reason I'm saying anything is bc I am looking to discuss turnaround times in full in this thread, meaning you got your cards back and can give a timeline in full. Thank you!
  20. Last I spoke with them this was the deal...... They know the demand they are going to get as soon as they open the floodgates on the Marvel cards, esp 1990 Impel in particular, so what I was told by a cust serv rep was that it seems CGC wants to make sure they have the infrastructure in place already to grade those cards, which to me makes perfect sense. After what happened to PSA (and SGC and CSG and everyone else after PSA shut its doors to new submissions) I'm sure they don't want a repeat of that to them, especially with the Fanatics takeover not so long ago.
  21. It's been explained to me before by multiple CSG reps that status is once the grades have finalized but not been encapsulated yet, so it's like an "in-between" status before encapsulation. I'm not 100% sure why they don't explain that anywhere but it is what it is.
  22. Call them and ask customer service or tag Ryan here in the thread.
  23. It just depends on how many are in front of you. There is no set length to move from one stage to the next. If more people responded to this thread with their turnaround times we could get more data to answer your question more accurately, but as of now these message boards are underused.
  24. What the hell are you talking about? I'm not upset with the time or turnaround, nor am I confused with how bulk orders work. I have had over 2000 cards graded over the years with numerous companies and have been collecting since the mid-80s. Do you need some coffee or something? Go and read my original post. I literally said I just want to see if we could get a more specific TaT nailed down bc at the time it was saying 165 but there were some pretty wild discrepencies in *actual* TaT. If you go through my post history you will see I am one of CSG's earliest and most staunch backers, so to be clear, I'm not sure where you got "I'm not sure why OP is so confused by the concept of how bulk orders are processed".....bc I'm not. I have literally never said I'm confused on how bulk orders are processed. I was merely concerned with nailing down a more accurate TaT. Jfc man. And then your last line - "Otherwise, be happy to get your cards back when you do... six to eight months later." Respectfully, again, (and besides the shi**y tone you're taking there), what the F are you talking about? *Again*, go through my post history, where I very specifically state "I don't care how long bulk takes to get back to me." Are you confused easily or something? Your reading comprehension not where it should be today? I have said nothing of what you are accusing me of and, frankly. it's really weird. Did you like read another post and then reply on the wrong thread? You either need to wake up or get some sleep bc your post is embarrassingly off the mark. ETA: I just realized how pathetically wrong you were when you said "....get them back in six to eight months" Their TaT for bulk has been 45 days for awhile now so it's not even close to "six to eight months." Again, what on Earth are you on about? Embarrassing.