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miraclemet

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Posts posted by miraclemet

  1. On 4/26/2022 at 1:09 AM, Upgrayedd2 said:

     

    Me: bid $500

    Me: bid $600 because I really wanted the item

    Buyer-A: outbids me

    Me: bid $620 - eBay says I need to bid higher

    Me: bid $630 - eBay says I need to bid higher

    Buyer-A: wins at $640

     

    My question is When Buyer A outbid you (when your top bid was $600) did he do it all at once (coming in with a $610 bid out of the blue), or did he do it by inching up with multiple bids (that your $600 out bid him on) until he "over took you" at $610? 

  2. On 3/30/2022 at 11:57 PM, AlphaOmega said:

    Being the seller in this case, I can say that is exactly the situation.  Based on timestamps, the first buyer accepted a counter offer and sent a PM. It was close and appears to have been a minute or so later that buyer 2 accepted a similar counter offer.  Basically there were overlapping offers sent (one was for multiple books) and the first PM back was the winner.

    Not sure how others handle multiple offers but I have used the eBay approach of replying to all offers as they arrive and the first one who takes the counter wins.  One alternative is to hold all offers until the conclusion of each negotiation. Challenging if a buyer goes MIA or there are overlapping 'package' offers.  Going forward I plan to clarify my thread rules for this situation.  I tend to list books that attract multiple offers and it can often be a feeding frenzy, especially for Golden Age books.

    Bout the only thing I'd do different would be to let the potential buyers know that you've made the offer to multiple parties and whoever takes it first will be the winner. And that's not to say you did anything wrong. 

  3. First the Miraclemet Rules
     

    The Rules: 
    Whatever happens in marketplace, stays in marketplace. No wait, wrong rules, hold on… here they are:

     

    1. NO PL/HOS members. I also reserve the right to not sell to/trade with someone with justification. If you have outstanding payments past due to other members, don’t commit to buying my book, pay your bills!
    2. "I'll take it" in a thread will always supersede any active negotiations in PM or emails. In the case of a tie, time stamps and screen shots win. 
    3. Payments: Paypal is perfectly acceptable. Purchases over $1,000, check/mo preferred.
    4. Checks must clear before shipping...usually 3 business days max!
    5. Payment plans available; please PM me to discuss
    6. Shipping: I ship USPS Priority mail M-W-F, so you will receive your books quickly. CGC books (up to 5) will be $15 to US, $40 to Canada. In the case of trades I will pay for both parties shipping since I am the one looking to do the trade. 
    7. Refunds: There will be no dis-satisfaction based refunds since books are graded by a third party and I'm gonna provide a butt ton of pictures. If book is damaged/lost in shipping, we will work together. Book will be insured for value. 
    8. Trades: As this is a trade thread, I will list a BIN price, it will be high and not based on the market. I reserve the right to reject a trade offer of my requested books. I will prioritize the books I'm looking for in trade. If you are interested in trading you can post the trade offer in the thread, and I'll come in and accept/reject. If there are multiple open trade offers from multiple people I have the right to accept the later offer (so there's basically no "first come first serve" in this scenario, though I will make an effort to respond in a timely manner. You can also DM trade offers. 


    Any questions or comments, please feel free to reach out.

  4. It's a little thing, but apparently they've recently changed their advanced search function so now you can't search for completed auctions and limit it to those auctions with X number of bids (say 2 or more bids). 

    I've always used that function to look at sold comps in competitive auctions, so to weed out the old "start an auction at what is really a BIN price and get one bid to sell it". 

    *sigh*

  5. The prevalent auction houses are also fine, but you're often paying market highs for books you want, but it's an auction so the market is setting the price as oppose to trying to reason with someone over their astronomically overpriced BIN price. 

    Auction houses worth checking out: Heritage Auctions, ComicLink, ComicConnect (these are the top 3) also Hakes has less frequent auctions, but some good stuff when they do (they do all collectibles, not just comics). 

    Collect what you love and you'll never be unhappy. 

  6. Ugh, so disappointed. 

    Guy posted 4 Bravestarr MIB figures on ebay.
    bstar.thumb.jpg.a6a4a8756b752c946372439d0e5e0abb.jpg
    He had zero feedback and listed them weirdly (did them like a quantity buy, though they were numbered, and each had varying degrees of damage. He also had "no returns" listed, but I figured Im still covered, so lets give it a shot. I asked for more pictures (there was only a front shot and a back shot), but after one BIN hit (and I was worried they had asked for the one I was targeting) I decided to go forward and roll the dice. #3 seemed to be in pretty great shape, with only slight creasing to the box, so I hit the BIN and specified #3.

    Fast forward to today, and it showed up YAY!
    I open the box, and discover that there are a few more creases than apparent in the picture (but I could live with it)
    but there's also a perfectly straight almost box length cut (looks like a "opening the case of toys with a boxcutter" down the side of the box. 

    RtnDownloadFile.thumb.png.6839cdb828ec4b63d756f1da4ed2e33b.png

    I contact the seller and open a return saying that there was undisclosed damage, and wanted to return. I really do try to find mint boxes so this doesnt meet my threshold. 
    Guy messages me back and says that "when it left it did not have a cut down the side" 
    I'm like "please don't imply that I did the damage. I've submitted a return request based on the item not arriving as described, please process it" 

    (the side of the toy box with the cut is not the side facing the edge that I cut when I opened the package, so that'd require one magic boxcutter....)
    ugh, new sellers... 
    Back to the hunt for a minty Bravestarr MIB.

  7. On 1/4/2022 at 1:12 PM, PovertyRow said:

    To me "pieces added" should not cover leaf casting. It should state "leafcasting" on cover and interior pages. One does not add "pieces" when leaf casting. This leaves (pun not intended) things way too open to misinterpretation.

    I swear I remember them specifying leaf casting in the past on labels, but dont know if they still specify it or if it all gets lumped in to "pieces added" (since one of the ways the piece can be added is by leafcasting the piece back on, but I guess "pieces added" could be added using tape as well...

  8. Saw this book recently

    271136250_478506467029999_4306637433128542840_n.thumb.jpg.b8781f1d9d73c6c4f00ee5331746a7a8.jpg

    How the heck is a married back cover considered "Conserved?" 

    Is it because there's no such thing as Conserved/Qualified? (I assume a married back cover would typically get a "Qualified" grade with a "Married" notation on the label. Or it would get a full on "Restored" label, since adding a back cover would definitely count as "adding pieces" (a REALLY big piece! :D) 

    I also assume the "pieces added to cover, interior" were leaf casting to attach and reinforce the married back cover. So again I ask how is that conservation and not restoration?!?!

    Also it's a little weird to consider a book "conserved" when it has only been partially conserved. The amount of staining (maybe mold) on the cover would make me think this a prime candidate for cover cleaning to limit the possibility of further damage from the mold/staining, which would be conservation. I could be wrong on this, someone may have assessed the book and determined that the staining was such that there were no conservation to be done. 

    I was thrilled with the addition of the "Conserved" designation to delineate vs Restored, but now Im seeing examples of work being done on books that I would think counts as restoration instead getting a conservation label and not being able to understand the rationale...