MGsimba77

4 minutes ago, seanfingh said:

What you are describing is not a defect in the slab. They are not designed to be fully sealed/airtight. If you got them re-slabbed, they still would not be fully sealed. My limited experience with the latest generation of slabs is that they are tighter, but still not fully sealed. Your slabs are functioning the way they were intended to.

Ok thank you. I have several older slabs that are not loose on any side & all of the newer ones are all tight on each side. Forgive the confusion. It seemed like it was a defect

I have a few slabbed books in which one or two of the sides are a bit loose/not fully sealed. Meaning that if I press the slab on the loose side the top & bottom come together & then separate a bit when letting go. How big of a problem would this be? I want to have them re slabbed but I wonder if it might cause a downgrade? What say the board?

On 2/12/2011 at 5:36 PM, BronzeBruce13 said:

Recently I received a PM from Mintcollector about this topic (and other related questions) and tried to respond in the original locked thread below. I'm not sure why it was locked?, but I've included the link if anyone wishes to reference it. So, I'm forced to start a new thread.

 

Original Locked Thread on Fireproof Safes and Comic Storage

 

Following the unfortunate incident in 2006, I decided to test storing (much less valuable) CGC comics in the same fireproof safe (with desiccant) -- since there seemed to be some uncertainty as to the actual hazard a "fireproof" safe, in particular, presented. There was an assertion at the time from another "fireproof" safe owner (that used some sort of desiccant) in which he declared he had experienced no such problems while using a fireproof safe with a desiccant.

 

Even though the damage to my books appeared to be *corrosive* (not just rust) -- I had not been using any desiccant at all. I was oblivious to the need unfortunately. Anyway, I purchased reusable desiccant products from "Eva-Dry" (see pic below) and carefully monitored the books within that same fireproof safe. After 4+ years now, I've had no problems at all. I now believe that the "fireproof" aspect of the safe's construction (whatever is added that is not present in "non-fireproof" safes - possibly chemicals and/or insulation) has little to no impact *IF* a proper desiccant product is being used and maintained*. The apparent corrosive appearance of the staples suffered on some of my CGC books may just have been typical advanced rust decay -- or even possibly an additional unknown reaction to the air-freshener I also had within my safe but did not consider to be relevant at the time. Maybe it was, especially combined with the humidity that built within.

 

Anyway, the most important factor here is proper desiccant usage and maintenance. I believe the "Eva-Dry" products to be very effective and affordable -- and convenient too. I originally bought an intermediate model (EDV-300) which I had to service approximately every 3 weeks. Later, I bought the (High Capacity) model that can go for 6-8 weeks (in the size safe I have).

 

After these Eva-Dry products become saturated with moisture, the silica within turns a different color to alert you (pink for moist, blue for dry). The size of the safe will impact the "service timing" needed. I emphasize that you will need to check the units manually and develop your own "check schedule" depending on the unit purchased, conditions around the safe, and size of your safe. Once saturated, you simply plug them in, they heat up, dry out, and are ready again to absorb moisture -- after they cool down. I now use both units in my safe as they don't take up much room and I can go 2 months+ without thinking about it.

 

I was also asked about "safety deposit boxes". I researched that option too (years back) and the bottom line seems to be the individual conditions that are (or are not) maintained by the provider. Having a stable, reasonable temperature is obviously important, but so is the humidity control. Anyone considering this option should obtain the exact specifics from the provider. If the answers are not clear -- I'd be cautious.

 

I'll answer any questions I can -- if anyone has any.

 

*It is a fact that some (possibly all) "fireproof / fire resistant" safes are prone to develop >more< moisture than "non-fireproof" safes since many contain insulation, which in turn, contains water crystals; thus the high content of moisture.

 

 

Thanks a million for this information! This is a super important thread! I just bought these for a smallish fire proof safe even though it came with 3 silica bags. I think I'll only use 1 dehumidifier though. Thanks again https://www.amazon.com/Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier-2-PACK/dp/B00LVN7BM0/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_st_dp_summary

On 10/2/2017 at 2:30 PM, SECollector said:

I am also considering to get a few of these slab pro portfolios to use for my better books inside the safe. Its more of a gimmick, sure but I think they will look nice and comfy in there.

 

Are they supposed to provide any extra protection for the books in regards to moisture in storage?

On 10/7/2017 at 10:31 PM, Eclipse said:

I built the box above for my slabs to keep in my closet, each drawer has a key lock and i have 2 drawers for storage on the bottom

What about the ventilation or lack of? 

On 10/4/2017 at 4:11 PM, ADAMANTIUM said:

Ah I see them now that I'm on my laptop, on my phone it was hard to see. Definitely looks better with those kinds of bags as the plastic is "clearer", and they present better with the label being more identifiable. I didn't know where to get those, so Hotflips... good to know 

Yes the mylar bags with the seal in back are the best. They're barely noticeable when taking pictures of the books

On 10/4/2017 at 1:30 PM, bababooey said:

Thanks for sharing the review  & pics!    

What about keeping them in a safe? I suppose the lack of ventilation would be an issue?

On 10/7/2017 at 1:25 PM, Terrapin said:

FYI, you can usually buy the books they have on eBay cheaper on their own website. Don't know how they get away with it. That's only for bin books not auction.

Yes but on their websites the payment options are limited for higher end books. Some sites charge a buyer's fee. They also take for ever to process & ship your orders

A couple of Venoms for y'all. 316 is like a smidge away from a 9.9

The back cover is from 316

4 hours ago, ADAMANTIUM said:

Because he put them on the first page in the "favorite thread" thread in CG that is pinned. He warned us about it a long time ago... and asked if it would be better that way and if we wanted it to happen, and not many people gave their opinion. I voiced that it would not be a good idea... But it happened anyway

I posted some new additions in the "bronze age" thread before discovering this one. Curious if I have bronze books which one of these threads would reach more eyes?

On 10/1/2017 at 4:23 PM, jdw1991 said:

Nice book. What do you think the grade would be if you sent it out?

1 minute ago, ADAMANTIUM said:

Awesome!! Congrats!!

Thank you sir!

Lighting might be a bit better on this one

Recently there was a sale of ASM #86 on eBay that was part of a 3 book group sale. If you look up ASM 86 on GPA you'll see the last sale for a really high price. This was the price for all 3 books not just #86. Is this normal for GPA?

Early bronze

3 hours ago, Artboy99 said:

while it doesn't affect CGC grading, as a buyer/ collector I dislike miswrap. I do not like the top book, the bottom book is preferable of the 2 shown.

That said I would prefer to find a copy that has no white showing .

or

Of the 2 books I have shown, I prefer the bottom one. Great colors, and perfectly centered. On the CGC 7.0 the top of the book the Marvel Comics group lettering banner is slightly crooked.

Thank you sir!

I saw a 9.8 white version being auctioned for a decent price on eBay but it was even more off center than the example I posted.

There's also another one same grade white higher priced that has white border still present but much better aligned (not perfect though). Here's the picture of the higher price one below. What's your opinion on where I should go?

I noticed the left side of the front cover varies a bit from copy to copy. There's a misaligned white border on some, an aligned white border on some & no white border on others. 

I'llpost 2 examples of the white borders. The top one is very slightly misaligned & bottom one is aligned. There are other comparisons that are more stark. Would this small difference be important?

On 9/5/2017 at 3:38 PM, CKinTO said:

Ditto, I think this is a different-strokes-for-different-folks kind of deal. Me personally, on any "reasonably high-end" key, I prefer my books unsigned and blue-label. That's just the way I am. But some books which are sentimental, lower-value key or are very iconic, I like getting them signed by the person that mattered the most on the book. And agree with @Timeless icons, for me signature placement (and color) make a big difference.

The yellow label books I tend to get or be interested in fall into 2 camps. 1) Unique or cool cover, to get signed by the cover artist (ie. a Dell'Otto, Mattina, JSC, Natali Sanders, Granov variant cover, which is more for my personal collection); 2) A key book signed by a key creator, and again for me, only for books that aren't that high end (ie. Uncanny X-men 248, 1st Jim Lee art on X-Men, signed by Jim Lee; a Dawn or Cry For Dawn book signed J. Michael Linsner given he is essentially synonymous with Dawn). Whereas, for my ASM300 9.6, I have blue-label, and doubt I would ever crack it to get McFarlane's signature, even though that's an iconic book for him and his art. It's a bit "too high-end" of a key for me to want to get signed. Again just my preference.

I'm also someone who, rather than try to be completist and get all writer / artists on a book, I prefer just 1 signature, and usually by the person that matters the most on the book. Now, obviously that's a judgment call, but for example, I'd want just Donny Cates on any of his books since he's really the primary draw and reason for those books having gained steam, similarly would want just Tom King on the more recent Vision or Mr. Miracle, as it's the writing that really brought those books attention). 

This is just the way I prefer it - as is often noted on these boards though, get what you like!

Take it you wouldn't be a fan of this one

10 minutes ago, newshane said:

It just seems like a violation. In my opinion, books that old need to be preserved in the original condition. If you're looking for a more rational reason, I'm afraid I won't be able to give it to you. It's just my personal taste.

I see your point but if they're graded high & in a slab it seems like it would be preferable to have the artist sig rather than not. All they did was sign it. Just my view 

On 9/6/2017 at 7:07 AM, Mercury Man said:

I think the market for people who want a signed book is smaller than the people that don't.  So from a resale perspective, you have a smaller window of buyers to entice.    Stan Lee, in my opinion, has signed sooooo many books in his lifetime, that there will never be any shortage, even of the good stuff that he worked on.  If you see his signature on modern book that he had nothing to do with, that is just silly.  Even worse if it was a character he had nothing to do with (Deadpool for example).   I always thought it was better to get a print of the comic book cover you want signed.    But we are all different.  I just don't put a premium on a signed book. 

Ok, as an example if you saw a high graded CGC ASM #1 reprint from 1966 that was signed by Lee would that sig catch your attention? It's a book he had a lot to do with.

And to further complicate things there are sketches (detailed or not) & date of signature to consider.

On 9/5/2017 at 8:23 PM, newshane said:

One more personal rule...

generally speaking, I will pass on signed books older than 40 years...

I still absolutely detest silver age comics that have been signed.

 

Curious why would you dislike signed silver age books?

Some late silver age for you guys