advice for new collectors 0

[esquirecomics]

Very helpful videos - do you mind if I embed them into my comic website and add a link back to your site?

 

Andrew [/quote

 

I certainly have no objections, although of course I don't control the videos! But I'm sure so long as it is linked back to the original site the company would be ecstatic about it! (thumbs u

[JohnT]

I'll add a tip to this thread:

 

Don't get addicted to high grade comics unless it is important to you that a comic be nearly perfect. It's easy to be pressured into the attitude that mid grade or low grade comics are junk, but in fact they are very collectible. Decide the lowest condition that you still find aesthetically pleasing and build your collection on that basis--and you'll save a lot of money and acquire a lot more books.

 

For example, I'm completely satisfied with many 5.0s, especially for older books, so that's what I look for. I probably have four times the number of books that I would have if I only looked for high grade, and I'm completely satisfied with my collection.

 

And a bonus is mid or low grade books are easier to find.

 

Of course I appreciate a higher grade book, and lots of times I end up buying them because the price is right, they're the only ones I can find, or I get lucky on the grade.

[Jumpmaster]

Buy only if you intend to read or have read and want a graded copy.

Avoid the HYPE!

Be a rebel, buy something every month from an indipendent publisher.

Ask your buddies what they are reading and why.

Try new things based on your own opinion.

Enjoy yourself, life is short, money is hard to come by these days, and entertainment in comic book form is a priceless commodity.

[oakman29]

New collector huh! Stay away from high grade comics,it's too late for me.If I could save someone from this overly expensive hobby,than I've done my job.GET OUT WHILE YOU CAN

[capt hook]

New collector huh! Stay away from high grade comics,it's too late for me.If I could save someone from this overly expensive hobby,than I've done my job.GET OUT WHILE YOU CAN

 

 

Ditto! I have become a high grade comic snob. Sure I'll buy mid grade on key books, but I am always searching for the fix of a higher grade copy to shoot into the big vein of my habit.

[kdoginohio]

Sounds like an episode of "Intervention".

[Edwardg53-migration]

1st take the time to understand why you "collect". Artwork, story content, Historical memorabilia, specific superheores, or even a personal similar character trait or belief with the "star" of the comic. This will lead the way to personalize the hobby for you. Remember to have paitience, a nice collection becomes a great collection over time, and for most its not about the money value its about gathering up what you like with the means that are available to you. I bow to the one's that I see that are in the position to gather up all 9.8's and would love to be in the position to do the same, but I LOVE what I've been able to do and if you are able to do the same then this hobby will LOVE you back. TRULY ENJOY

[Jimmy Mint]

If you are buying books on ebay, especially CGC books its very easy to learn quickly what a fair price is. Just do a search for the book you want to buy, go to the advanced options and select "completed listings". This will show you what other books have sold for either in buy it now or auction form. Don't overpay or chase a book, there will always be another one. For ungraded books stick with sellers with a good record and positive feedback. But don't think you'll get a raw 9.8+ that is shipped through the mail, it just won't happen. Assume the best raw book you'll get without looking at it is a 9.6 or 9.4 no matter how many times they say NEAR MINT, 9.9 GEM MINT they are just hype words to grab you. And most of all HAVE FUN!!

[Mr.Diggler]

[inovrmihd]

Hi. I came across your very informative comment on preservation, and I had a quick question. If I get 2 mil mylers, do you recommend also getting backboards? Does puttting backboards in a mylar in any way reduce the preservative properties of the mylars? (I tried to view the link to the article on preservation you provided, but the page was no longer available). Thanks in advance for any response.

[oakman29]

Hi. I came across your very informative comment on preservation, and I had a quick question. If I get 2 mil mylers, do you recommend also getting backboards? Does puttting backboards in a mylar in any way reduce the preservative properties of the mylars? (I tried to view the link to the article on preservation you provided, but the page was no longer available). Thanks in advance for any response.

 

Only if you use acid free backing boards,but I do recommend boards with a 2 mil. mylar.

[Green]

Hi. I came across your very informative comment on preservation, and I had a quick question. If I get 2 mil mylers, do you recommend also getting backboards? Does puttting backboards in a mylar in any way reduce the preservative properties of the mylars? (I tried to view the link to the article on preservation you provided, but the page was no longer available). Thanks in advance for any response.

 

Only if you use acid free backing boards,but I do recommend boards with a 2 mil. mylar.

Actually, you need to look for acid buffered backboards. "Acid free" only refers to time of manufacturing.

[kest]

Just curious and wondering everyones opinion. How old should a comic be before considering it to be graded? (example 20-30 years old) baring first appearences/deaths/first-last issues,ect.

[thehumantorch]

Just curious and wondering everyones opinion. How old should a comic be before considering it to be graded? (example 20-30 years old) baring first appearences/deaths/first-last issues,ect.

 

In general I don't like the idea of CGC grading modern books as I consider them common in high grade. There are lots of people building high grade CGC modern sets who would disagree with me.

 

As a general rule it doesn't make sense to pay for grading on a book that will be worth less than the cost of grading. The newer the book the higher the grade needed to justify the cost.

 

Check ebay, clink, heritage, dealer sites and GPA (a web service that tracks sales of CGC graded comics-google gpa comics) to establish what a book sells for at a certain grade.

[oakman29]

Just curious and wondering everyones opinion. How old should a comic be before considering it to be graded? (example 20-30 years old) baring first appearences/deaths/first-last issues,ect.

 

In general I don't like the idea of CGC grading modern books as I consider them common in high grade. There are lots of people building high grade CGC modern sets who would disagree with me.

 

As a general rule it doesn't make sense to pay for grading on a book that will be worth less than the cost of grading. The newer the book the higher the grade needed to justify the cost.

 

Check ebay, clink, heritage, dealer sites and GPA (a web service that tracks sales of CGC graded comics-google gpa comics) to establish what a book sells for at a certain grade.

Agreed! Welcome to the Boards

[s-man]

In general, if this hasn't been said already then my main advice and pretty much the only I have ever followed when it comes to collecting comics is....collect what you like! (thumbs u

[AndyBoBo]

Go to a comic book convention! Rummage through the bargain bins! This can be a lot of fun for the new collector.

 

that remains my favorite thing to do - thousands of books later!

[AndyBoBo]

my advise (much has probably been said...):

 

start by buying bargain books to see what characters you like, then read up on the newer stuff and support your local brick n' mortar (I understand you can get the same book on ebay for $1, but...) to see if you are going to want to begin a collection of previous appearances of that character.

 

don't go crazy and maintain a focus - identify what matters to you about your books (i.e. grade, color, spine, cut, or just plain readability) and stay with that - if you don't you will find yourself starting and re-starting your collection over and over again spending a lot of money.

 

understand going in that this will take time - which is the best part about it.

 

as someone said it before, if it seems to good to be true (especially on ebay) it is! I'm amazed at some of the deals on the threads sometimes though.

 

as someone told me, give yourself a couple of years in before you start buying entire collections (I've had fun buying bulk and selling of the dups - but it requires a separate commitment, plus a whole bunch of room).

 

and lastly, for now, take care of your books - it's easy to do, whether you use bags and boards or mylars - it's well worth keeping up on it. you let it go for a bit and you find yourself ruining your books...

 

 

 

[AndyBoBo]

Just curious and wondering everyones opinion. How old should a comic be before considering it to be graded? (example 20-30 years old) baring first appearences/deaths/first-last issues,ect.

 

In general I don't like the idea of CGC grading modern books as I consider them common in high grade. There are lots of people building high grade CGC modern sets who would disagree with me.

 

As a general rule it doesn't make sense to pay for grading on a book that will be worth less than the cost of grading. The newer the book the higher the grade needed to justify the cost.

 

Check ebay, clink, heritage, dealer sites and GPA (a web service that tracks sales of CGC graded comics-google gpa comics) to establish what a book sells for at a certain grade.

 

awesome advice! i do get my rarer modern variants and con exclusives graded, but it will be some time before i even consider starting a modern set - although they are impressive. to me it's too high of a financial commitment without a possibility of getting your return back if something happens... say your wife gets pregnant!

 

 

[TheLiamSturgess]

Just curious and wondering everyones opinion. How old should a comic be before considering it to be graded? (example 20-30 years old) baring first appearences/deaths/first-last issues,ect.

 

In general I don't like the idea of CGC grading modern books as I consider them common in high grade. There are lots of people building high grade CGC modern sets who would disagree with me.

 

As a general rule it doesn't make sense to pay for grading on a book that will be worth less than the cost of grading. The newer the book the higher the grade needed to justify the cost.

 

Check ebay, clink, heritage, dealer sites and GPA (a web service that tracks sales of CGC graded comics-google gpa comics) to establish what a book sells for at a certain grade.

 

awesome advice! i do get my rarer modern variants and con exclusives graded, but it will be some time before i even consider starting a modern set - although they are impressive. to me it's too high of a financial commitment without a possibility of getting your return back if something happens... say your wife gets pregnant!

 

 

I follow thehumantorch's basic idea behind it, though all of my slabs are Modern. If you can't make your money back on it, don't slab it. IMO, 90% of Moderns (minus keys obviously) are only worth something in 9.6-9.8, wiith 9.8's being the only real money-makers.

 

I personally say if it's a sure-fire 9.8 that's not too overpopulated on the census, sub it.