marvelmaniac

We cannot really help you with answers/advise unless we know what you are doing. Exactly what are you planning on doing that would lead you to ask this question and say you "don't want to get taken advantage of"? Are You... 1)Sending books into CGC to have them graded? 2)Listing them on an Auction Site to sell them? 3)Having another third party grade books for you for whatever reason? 4)Other...Please Explain

Hello and Welcome, That appears to be a very nice book and my guess would be that the book would be graded as if the binder hole was not present and receive a "Green Qualified" Label noting the hole punch. QUALIFIED LABEL (GREEN) "A Qualified label is used by CGC for certified books that have a significant defect that needs specific description, or to note an unauthenticated signature (one which was not witnessed by CGC). For example, a comic book with a missing coupon that otherwise grades 6.0 will receive a Qualified grade, avoiding a considerably lower grade. CGC would give this book a Qualified grade of 6.0 and a Label Text notation “COUPON MISSING FROM PAGE 10, DOES NOT AFFECT STORY.” Or, if the book is signed on the cover it may be noted as “NAME WRITTEN ON COVER IN MARKER.” ". If graded as is... (Blue Label) Just a guess on my part looking at the overall condition of this book and not knowing how CGC looks at binder holes but I would guess the book would not receive a grade higher than a VG 4.5 if graded with the binder hole present.

This statement is generic but true... "Any Collectible Is Only Worth What A Collector Is Willing To Pay For It." Some Newer/Modern books become "Hot" due to Movies or Gimmick Covers, etc. and skyrocket in value for a "short" period of time due to supply and demand, then when the "hype" dies down the prices come back down to earth. Anybody can change a price at anytime and ask any amount that they choose, if nobody buys it then it is obviously not worth the price they are asking for it. FMV is generally determined by what a book sells for at auction (eBay, My Comic Shop, Comic Connect, Heritage, etc.) Checking eBay sold listings will tell you what people are actually willing to pay for them. The Overstreet Price Guide although it is never current is based on "Average" selling prices throughout the previous year.

Is there really any such thing??? Even as you call them, "ugly" books need Love.

My CIS policy reads that the actual insurer is... Lloyd's of London

I gave them a complete list of all my books when I first got the policy then sent them a list of books/figures added each year since. Probably a lot easier for me since I do not sell/replace/upgrade, once I have it and it is in the collection it is there for life.

If you use poly bags replace them every 5 years, if you use Mylites you are good forever but they cost a lot more. Be sure to use backing boards to help protect the books from bending. You can get combo poly bags/boards for a very reasonable amount. Store the books in a controlled environment (not in a garage/basement/attic) and away from light and heat sources. The amount of books you have will all fit in one short comic box. Any other questions Please feel free to ask.

My Son and Daughter will be in the same position one day only with a lot more books and with key issues so let me give you an idea of value from the 2015/2016 Overstreet Price Guide for what I feel are the keys in the books you listed. Just for argument sake lets grade them all at GD 2.0. Just remember, the price guide is only an average of what those books sold for in the given condition, if you sell them to a local comic shop you may only get 10 cents on the dollar, if you sell them thru eBay or an auction house you will get what someone is willing to pay for each issue at the time which could be less, equal to or more than the price guide. Any collectible is only worth what a collector is willing to pay. Books not listed below are anywhere from $1.00 - $9.00 Amazing Spider-Man 21 - $39.00 39/40 - $37.00 42 - $16.00 Avengers 26 - $27.00 Daredevil 13/14 - $10.00 16/17 - $17.00 Fantastic Four 49 - $42.00 51 - $21.00 53 - $19.00 54/56 - $12.00 65 - $15.00 Specials 4/5 - $12.00 Silver Surfer (Vol 1) 2 - $19.00 6/7/10 - $10.00 The X-Men 18 - $19.00 25/29 - $13.00 35 - $24.00 45/57 - $10.00 Hope This Helps.

My Dad used to buy me Erector Sets (pre- 1965) and I was never able to assemble/build any without help. You could not sell this today, small screws and nuts with metal pieces that probably had a sharp edge or two, I was 6-7 when I got my first set.

https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions Also... https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/overstreet-guide-to-grading-comics-2015_robert-m-overstreet/13369134/?mkwid=sURE13OvE|dc&pcrid=70112893392&pkw=&pmt=&plc=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxe3ZiK_-3AIVxSaGCh0_ywIZEAQYAiABEgI3xPD_BwE#isbn=1603601678&idiq=28904960

IMO the book W/O the detached centerfold would grade at a GD/VG 3.0 and would probably grade at a GD 2.0 with the detached centerfold. 3.0 GOOD/VERY GOOD (GD/VG): Back to TopA used comic book showing some substantial wear. Cover shows significant wear, and may be loose or even detached at one staple. Cover reflectivity is very low. Can have a book-length crease and/or dimples. Corners may be blunted or even rounded. Discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor to moderate soiling is allowed. A triangle from 1/4" to 1/2" can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" to 1/4" square is also acceptable. Tape and other amateur repair may be present. Moderate spine roll likely. May have a spine split of anywhere from 1" to 1-1/2". Staples may be rusted or replaced. Minor to moderate staple tears and moderate stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple. Minor to moderate interior tears may be present. 2.0 GOOD (GD): Back to TopShows substantial wear; often considered a "reading copy." Cover shows significant wear and may even be detached. Cover reflectivity is low and in some cases completely absent. Book-length creases and dimples may be present. Rounded corners are more common. Moderate soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing may be present. The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is likely. May have up to a 2" spine split. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Moderate interior tears may be present.

OOH, OOH, OOH!!! Just remembered another I played in the 70's with our neighbor right after I got married. LOVED playing this.

You can check eBay sold listings to get an "approximate idea" of FMV and what they are selling for. You will need to assign an approximate grade to the books to get a "realistic" idea of FMV. https://comics.ha.com/tutorial/comics-grading.s?show=comicdefinitions IE: Your Adventures Into Terror #16 (Top Pic, Top Left Book) appears to be a GD 2.0 - GD+ 2.5. By that grading the 2015-2016 Overstreet Price Guide has that book valued at $28.00. As already stated you have numerous choices... eBay, LCS, Consignment with My Comic Shop, Comic Connect, On these boards, etc. https://www.mycomicshop.com/search?TID=233661 https://www.comicconnect.com/ Again, as already stated having them professionally graded by CGC will certainly increase their appeal/value. https://www.cgccomics.com/

My head is just filled with GREAT memories. Here are some more I loved as a kid. 1)"Kenners Girders And Panels Loved building entire cities 2)Etch A Sketch 3)Rat Fink Figures Everytime I went shopping with Mom I asked her to get me one from the gumball machine.

If you are on a tight budget and cannot afford Mylites and 100% Acid Free Boards you can buy Bulk Poly Bags that come with Boards. Although poly is not recommended for archival protection or long term protection a poly bag and board are better than no bag/board at all. The issue is that poly breaks down over time and causes acidic wear to the book it is protecting, it is recommended to replace them every 5 years, however... Comic books themselves are acidic from the ink used in the printing process and natural paper degradation so having the books actual touching each other is probably worse than using a poly bag and board which will offer the book protection from physical damage and environmental contaminants. Also, regardless of which route you choose to go always store your books in the dark away from natural and florescent lighting and try to store them in a controlled environment, the more they expand/contract from temperature/humidity change the more acidic they become. Lastly... ENJOY Your Books!!! https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Current-Comic-Book-Boards/dp/B076DVXT72

Ahh, more precious memories... I played with Colorforms endlessly in my early days (late 50's/early 60's)

I built WW2 model aircraft in high school (1972/1973) and when we started studying WW2 my history teacher hung them all from the ceiling of the classroom.

I received one of these when my sister was born in 3/62. My parents told me it was a gift from my new baby sister. Then about 10 years ago I was feeling nostalgic and decided I needed to own another piece of my childhood again so I spent $100.00 to reacquire another beany copter, unfortunately not MIB.

With only being able to see what you have shown us it appears that besides being detached at one staple that the spine is splitting. Without being able to see the rest of the book my opinion on grade would be. (Note: I would be Extremely happy with a 3.0 X-Men #1) 3.0 GOOD/VERY GOOD (GD/VG): Back to TopA used comic book showing some substantial wear. Cover shows significant wear, and may be loose or even detached at one staple. Cover reflectivity is very low. Can have a book-length crease and/or dimples. Corners may be blunted or even rounded. Discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor to moderate soiling is allowed. A triangle from 1/4" to 1/2" can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" to 1/4" square is also acceptable. Tape and other amateur repair may be present. Moderate spine roll likely. May have a spine split of anywhere from 1" to 1-1/2". Staples may be rusted or replaced. Minor to moderate staple tears and moderate stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple. Minor to moderate interior tears may be presen

Back in the mid 60's I got .25 cents allowance per week which was used for comic books, baseball cars and slurpees. Needless to say I was always asking for additional chores or an advance. Yea, they had "third class mail" back then. I lived in South Jersey and in the early 80's I ordered some comics books mail order from a place in Red Bank N.J., a one hour drive from where I lived, it took almost 5 weeks for them to arrive.

I keep seeing all the neat ads when the back covers are shown and it got me wondering how many people actually purchased something from a comic book ad. Back in 1970 (I was 14/15) I did purchase the Charles Atlas Course. It was Isometric exercises dedicated to specific muscle groups with tips on eating/drinking/sleeping properly. Each month you would get a new booklet for a specific part of the body. Did I turn into a "muscle man"?... No, I was too lazy and had other things on my mind that were more important at the time... Girls, Friends, Girls.

http://www.egerber.com/

Nasty...??? or Well Loved...???

In 30 years you will look back and say "Ahh, Memories". Just consider the sticker as part of the history of the book just like a date stamp or a kid that writes their name on the top of the splash page. Comic book collecting is about Fun and Nostalgia.