FN-2199

Here is a tip I learned this year that has helped me cut down on shipping time: I print the label at home through eBay or PayPal (OK, this isn't news). Once the label is printed, I can drop it off at my local Post Office 24/7. I've noticed that some, not all, USPS offices have drop bins in the lobby which is open 24/7 for PO Box customers and shipping using the self-service postage machine. Now, when I can't get to the Post Office during the day, I can swing by at night and drop packages in the giant blue hopper drop off. My local post office even has a separate drop off for "Large Envelopes and Flats", perfect for mailing out single raw comics or a Gemini comic mailer. Then I drop the bulk purchase or slab in the package bin next to this drop off. I visit multiple Post Offices and not all have these drop offs but many do (the ones with the self-service postage machine). Check it out. If you can do this, your package will be processed at the end of the next business day.

I would choose the one without the corner blunting/bending. Production related flaws can still get you 9.6s and 9.8s.

The fade (if there is one) does not look like it will drop the book from Near Mint. From our online perspective, it seems you have a NM book next to a (slightly better) NM book.

I use Friends & Family... when I buy something from Friends & Family. Even when customers offer to use F&F without me asking, I still send them an invoice so they are covered. That's just me.

Now you understand why collectors pay a premium for CGC graded books and why PGX books sell for less.

Take your best guess. If your book is over a certain amount of money, the grading fee changes. Look at the CGC fees. There will be Max Values assigned to each grading tier. You should be able to choose any grading tier if your books are valued at less than $200 each. I usually list what I want the comic insured at and only worry about it when it's value is borderline between two different tiers. If I was submitting any Transformers book, I would declare at less than $200 each.

In general, the best time to sell comics is during tax season through the summer. Once the fall and then holidays hit, prices usually plateau or drop slightly. If you have a hot book, the best time to sell is before the movie comes out. If you coordinate with an auction site, it may take them a month to list it and another month to sell it depending if they have the same book in the same grade already set for auction.

There are signature facilitators in the Signature Room of this site. They often advertise their services for a specific convention. You can contact them and they will get the book signed, witnessed, and slabbed.

Nice topic. I bought a high grade Bronze comic this year that came with one of these. I considered keeping it but decided that I liked my fullbacks better because those gave the comic more support which is what I was looking for.

Fortunately for you, the Lester B. Pearson airport in Toronto has US Customs officials there who will pre-screen you before you leave Canada. That means you can have a relaxing flight knowing that you were already granted permission to enter the U.S. before you ever get on the plane and skip the cattle line at JFK. This also means that since you will be screened in Canada, it is less likely that standard Customs law applies to the forfeiture of assets. If you are not in compliance with US Customs law, they will probably just deny your boarding until your paperwork is filled out properly.

I've had a Thanos Quest #1 9.8 listed on eBay for what seems like forever. I think that I set the ceiling on that book because all of the others are priced right below mine and seem to sell. I'm waiting for the final push up to the movie before I drop the price. I think the problem is that everyone has known Infinity Gauntlet/War was coming since the first Infinity Stone showed up in the movies years ago so even though the movie is coming these books are not "hot" but a stable "warm".

Comics aren't defined by Congress as negotiable instruments so I would believe they fall under merchandise under the customs declaration.

Alpha Flight and Legends of the Dark Knight... I have a feeling we will see some Death of Superman, Spawn, and X-Force too. You'll be looking for New Mutants 87, 98 and Amazing Spider-Man 361 from this time. Maybe some Amazing Spider-Man 298-301 there, 300 is the $$$ book. Trying to think of something else worth more than $30... a full run of New Mutants 1-100 is good Silver Surfer 34-50 has potential, Infinity Gauntlet... Will be interesting to see the good stuff in piles and piles of Alpha Flight, Excalibur, WILDCATS, and others.

Ahhh, the benefits of a bear market.

I don't list my eBay sales outside of Europe, Australia and the Americas but someone from South Africa hit me up on Instagram. I sold some nice bronze age ASM to a suburb of Johannesburg, South Africa. No tracking after it left the U.S. and took about 8 weeks to arrive. I've also sent a few packages to Sao Paulo. At least they track packages in Brazil.

Charles Barkley is a YouTube sensation. Him and Shaq going at it sets social media on fire.

When I look up what is trending under #drek, I see Russian Hip-Hop "artists"

You can't name the .jpg file "contact info". I learned that won't work so I renamed it "document" or "image 1". I have a screengrab that says "If you have any problems with your transaction, contact me at XXXX@yahoo.com" You can also ask, what's your FB or IG account? Those go through. Separate thought: PayPal e-mail addresses associated with eBay accounts are funny. I've won various lots from several people selling their collections piecemeal and then notice they are selling more that I want. I send them an e-mail to their PayPal address and hardly ever get a response. Then I send them a message on eBay saying "check your PayPal address" and they are clueless as to what I am talking about or when I explain, they say, "oh that is my brother's account" or something. There are plenty of times I buy from "Brad" who received payment to "fuzzykittens2468@XXX"

If you check eBay recent sales for yesterday, this number is exactly correct. Give @Catwomancomics a No Prize!

Today ASM 300 9.8 is killing it. I'm having a hard time believing it was worth $900 just over a year ago. There have been recent sales at triple this price.

Here is an argument against variants being worth more: Have you seen the price of this ASM 601 variant vs. the regular JSC cover of ASM 601. The difference is noticeable. The regular cover is way more popular.

Personally, I like the variants in my sig line the most. FYI, if you are reading this in the distant future, I am referring to ASM 568-573 New Ways to Die portrait variants.

I had to experience this the first time with a squirming baby on my lap. I was annoyed. Ultimately I had to save the postage and then re-open it to print. The labels are now slightly smaller too. I don't care about the size but I do not like having to save the label in order to print it.

Long over 30 pages ago we already pondered if we were being trolled. The concencus was that this is real.

You could opt to buy keys and filler at the same time. Here is what I mean: If your making an ASM 1-700 run, break up the series into smaller runs. For instance, save ASM 101, 121, 122, 129 for another day and concentrate on ASM 300-400. Buy the keys from ASM 300-400 first and then buy the filler. After you buy ASM 300, 301, 316, 344, 361, etc. the rest is easy and those are obtainable books. It's kinda like Dave Ramsey's "debt snowball" theory. Kill the easiest run first to gain momentum into the larger or harder to obtain runs. If you go about buying random copies from Bronze, Copper, and Modern age, you miss market trends and end up overpaying. If you narrow your focus to 50-100 books, you will know what a book in that run generally goes for as opposed to jumping around.