djzombi

The amount of knowledge on these forums is astonishing. I love it!

That CHUCK NORRIS KARATE KOMMANDOS is a total keeper!

I have this book! I originally bought a poster-size 11"x17" print of the cover, and was delighted to find an affordable copy at a comic con soon afterward! I simply adore this cover, as well as most of the others showcased in this thread!

As Golden Age books go, Westerns are still VERY affordable.

JEEZUS ::faints dead::

Did this fall under "so damn cheap"? LOL

SO AWESOME!!!

OMG your license plate - that game is SO HARD! Big classic arcade game enthusiast here.

Yeah, split covers are USUALLY a no-go for me, but there's always an exception - that is, the price can't be beat! I just recently bought an extremely affordable FF #26 with a completely split spine for about $30, that presents great in Mylar. I now have every issue of FF Vol. 1 from #26 up, excluding #45, 46, 48 & 49. I've all but given up on those

This, particularly if it's the only way I could afford the book.

I guess my question is, how is FMV determined? Using what as a guide? Also, if they're getting 3% of FMV, isn't that incentive to overgrade?

Is the 3% walkthrough fee based on the customer's declared value, or CGC's valuation? If upon the book's arrival, CGC decides that the book was undervalued, how does CGC determine that value in order to charge 3% of it?

By saying "what books you have," they don't mean what company published them. DC published books that are worth a lot, and published some that have a low market value. Marvel published books that ended up being worth a lot, and others, even from the 1960s, that aren't worth more than $10 unless they're in absolutely perfect condition. To get a ballpark value, you can look up your books on eBay and select "sold items" to see what they've been selling for, but keep in mind that condition is king. A book with zero creases or bends of any kind will fetch a lot more money than one that looks like it spent a lot of time in some kid's back pocket.

With the books I have posted, this has been my experience as well - that the McFarlane books and Venom covers have their devoted following, and have received the most "watchers" on my listings of the books between #300-400. (but now we're talking Copper and not Bronze )

Personally, I would say scoop up higher grade if you can find them for $5 and under; mid-grade at $1-2.00. They're out there.

I'll second this from personal experience. Last month I started to sell my comics on eBay (mainly my undercopies/"doubles"). The first comics I put up were the "low-hanging-fruit" I knew I could turn over quickly - namely ASM. All were LOW to MID-grade. I researched MyComicShop asking prices, Overstreet Guide listed value, and comparable sold copies on eBay, then shot for the moon and listed at close to (but never more than) the highest value of the three, figuring what doesn't sell I can relist at a lower price. ALL copies of ASM below #200 sold within 2 weeks, with most gone the first week, a few dozen books total. Again, these were (mostly) non-keys and lower grade.

You can actually use the bar code to see what variant you have. Check out this site. In fact, it even uses a Darth Vader comic book as an example! Guidance for UPC barcodes for Comic Books - Bar Code Graphics

Jimenez is awesome! Though on this early stuff you can tell he's got a little polishing to do (e.g. anatomy).

I will 2nd the UPC sticker being from a Waldenbooks. When I was a wee lad I would get comics at the Waldenbooks at the local mall, and many of them were slapped with a UPC sticker.

Oh, gosh. Yeah, pressing wouldn't get rid if that color break on the spine, but it does still look bent....which the pressing WOULD have eliminated (if done correctly). I'm so sorry

That could have been Suydam's doing when he signed it. I've seen creators manhandle books they're signing, and from my interactions with Mr. Suydam, he's not the most...gracious of people.

A 3.0 with what appears to be nearly 10% of the cover missing?

Soooo....no clarification or response from this single-post person. Okay then.

I'm more of a lurker, really, but love to gain information from the knowledgeable folks here. I was just following the suggestion/rules that @CGC Mikelaid out regarding keeping things on-topic. I figured the pages-long catfight (including several inflammatory personal attacks) that's been going on here didn't qualify. But if I'm out of line then please disregard and carry on.

The last 2+ pages have been grossly off-topic. Can we please get back to discussing Copper Age books that have been getting more attention lately?