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New to OA Collecting, Advice, tips?
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1,154 posts in this topic

I'm just getting into OA for the first time and wanted to ask a question regarding OA with speech bubbles and lettering already "drawn" in - if that makes sense...

 

I've seen OA which has no lettering or speech bubbles and other OA that has them. I guess my question is: why do some pages have bubbles and letters and others do not?

 

I'm looking at buying a Batman page from 1980 where the bubbles and letters look to be integrated into the artwork itself, and just want to know a bit more about why it's like that. Most of the artwork I see for sale has no bubbles or letters.

 

Thanks. Gotta start somewhere :blush:

 

For the simplest explaination computers are the reason you don't see word ballons and text on more original art pages today.

 

Ah, that does explain it. So, for a page from circa 1980, did the artist just give the letterer the completed page and then the letterer just hand-drew (or maybe stenciled?) the bubble and hand-lettered the letters on to the original page?

 

 

Yeah and they would also sometimes paste the completed word ballons on the page.

 

I prefer the look of older pages I hate how original covers and title pages don't look complete today.

 

I love classic pages like that - where there's the art, and then there's the bubbles and other template stuff like the title and issue box etc stuck over the top.

 

Thanks for your help guys, appreciate it.

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I will say this, don't overpay, by definition of paying more than you can afford to pay and more than the artwork is worth to you. What you are willing to pay and what you can afford to pay is what it's worth to you. Never be ashamed or embarrassed by that fact, so long as it's reasonable to state without offending. So, yes it's not smart to lose a piece by being cheap and trying to nickle/dime a deal. But it's also foolish to throw money at something and money you're not comfortable paying.

 

As for art being one of a kind, yes that is so true. As for art, once sold, possibly never coming around again, true again. However, just like anything else, if you can't afford it, don't fret, another opportunity will come along again, maybe even a better one. That's in part why I don't deal with rude art dealers who don't earn my business. I am never without resources to find art I can enjoy nor am I ever not seeing something I want pop up and become available in the marketplace.

 

Some advise against time payments, layaway or putting purchases on credit cards because the nature of what artwork is, is in truth a very non-necessity. It does not feed you. It does not cloth you. It does not shelter you. It does not provide you with any tangible service and value other than aesthetics.

 

I'd agree to a degree on that. There's more important things in life and art is not worth going into debt for. It's funny to see some comic art collectors spend thousands on artwork, then balk at paying for a nice meal and opting for greasy $3 slices of pizza.

 

However, if it's either a piece you have to have and are willing to take a loan out for it and overextend your finances, or if it's an investment grade piece, then I can buy into that.

 

I have many art collecting peers who sees are not only as a collectible, but in truth just another asset into their investment portfolio, like stocks, bonds, a 401k, gold bullion, real estate, etc. In truth, for pieces over $300, that's what it is. You can appreciate artwork by looking at a scan. You can take your artwork and photocopy it. There's no reason why you should have an 8 oz piece of paper that is worth $10,000 laying around your home and deny it's value as an investment. That's why preservation is key, as well as, to a degree the ability to become emotionally detached to the idea of ownership should you need to or want to sell/trade a piece. The art will always exist, you can again, take a photo or make a scan. So, there's something about owning art that fuels the passion and obsession beyond what others may consider reasonable, it's what keeps companies like Heritage alive and thriving.

 

 

 

Couldn't disagree more.

 

If it's "the" piece, you should over pay (or pay what ever you are willing to pay).... because it may never show up again.

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I will say this, don't overpay, by definition of paying more than you can afford to pay and more than the artwork is worth to you. What you are willing to pay and what you can afford to pay is what it's worth to you. Never be ashamed or embarrassed by that fact, so long as it's reasonable to state without offending. So, yes it's not smart to lose a piece by being cheap and trying to nickle/dime a deal. But it's also foolish to throw money at something and money you're not comfortable paying.

 

As for art being one of a kind, yes that is so true. As for art, once sold, possibly never coming around again, true again. However, just like anything else, if you can't afford it, don't fret, another opportunity will come along again, maybe even a better one. That's in part why I don't deal with rude art dealers who don't earn my business. I am never without resources to find art I can enjoy nor am I ever not seeing something I want pop up and become available in the marketplace.

 

Some advise against time payments, layaway or putting purchases on credit cards because the nature of what artwork is, is in truth a very non-necessity. It does not feed you. It does not cloth you. It does not shelter you. It does not provide you with any tangible service and value other than aesthetics.

 

I'd agree to a degree on that. There's more important things in life and art is not worth going into debt for. It's funny to see some comic art collectors spend thousands on artwork, then balk at paying for a nice meal and opting for greasy $3 slices of pizza.

 

However, if it's either a piece you have to have and are willing to take a loan out for it and overextend your finances, or if it's an investment grade piece, then I can buy into that.

 

I have many art collecting peers who sees are not only as a collectible, but in truth just another asset into their investment portfolio, like stocks, bonds, a 401k, gold bullion, real estate, etc. In truth, for pieces over $300, that's what it is. You can appreciate artwork by looking at a scan. You can take your artwork and photocopy it. There's no reason why you should have an 8 oz piece of paper that is worth $10,000 laying around your home and deny it's value as an investment. That's why preservation is key, as well as, to a degree the ability to become emotionally detached to the idea of ownership should you need to or want to sell/trade a piece. The art will always exist, you can again, take a photo or make a scan. So, there's something about owning art that fuels the passion and obsession beyond what others may consider reasonable, it's what keeps companies like Heritage alive and thriving.

 

 

 

Couldn't disagree more.

 

If it's "the" piece, you should over pay (or pay what ever you are willing to pay).... because it may never show up again.

 

My name is Pete Marino and I approve this message.

 

Well said Rick

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Did anybody say not to buy convention sketches? Don't buy convention sketches.

 

Ha ha, I think you should say don't buy convention sketches from Gallery on the Baum. At least people are catching on and they are getting negged.

 

There is certainly more risk in buying convention sketches vs published pages (and published pages are not 100% risk free, there are still fake published pages are there). But you can buy convention sketches if you know what you are doing.

 

Malvin

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Haw, well, yeah. But I've got some great convention sketches, obtained directly from the artists, and I know I could never prove them to be genuine. A lot of people photograph or even videotape the artists at work when getting sketches at conventions; a very good idea.

 

But then again, if an artist is sitting at a table at a convention doing sketches willy-nilly, they're never going to be worth much anyway.

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Quick question - I have a large art Sandman 1 page and it doesn't fit in my 13x19 Itoya. I guess I need the 18x24 (it's too long for the 14x17)? That just seems like such a huge portfolio. Any other choices I'm not thinking of? Thanks in advance.

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Had the same issue come up a few months ago and ended up going 18x24, after some research. The majority of my collection is in 13x19s so not something I wanted to do but I actually have a few other pieces in the larger one now so it ended up being useful for more than the initial oversized piece.

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I saw a piece that I was extremely interested in. The owner says that he is considering offers, but to be honest I don't really know where to start. How do you guys decide?

 

If you're unsure of the market value of the piece, try to find other pages from the same artist/series/issue, if possible, and see what they sold for.

 

You can also sign up for the ComicArtFans Market Data service .

 

But, my cynical side always avoids sellers unwilling to post a price. For the record, you can consider EVERY PIECE OF ART ON CAF as "considering offers" :makepoint:

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I saw a piece that I was extremely interested in. The owner says that he is considering offers, but to be honest I don't really know where to start. How do you guys decide?

 

If you're unsure of the market value of the piece, try to find other pages from the same artist/series/issue, if possible, and see what they sold for.

 

You can also sign up for the ComicArtFans Market Data service .

 

But, my cynical side always avoids sellers unwilling to post a price. For the record, you can consider EVERY PIECE OF ART ON CAF as "considering offers" :makepoint:

 

I tried researching for more info about what the market value could be but got nothing. He said that he was still trying to figure out a fair price. Should I just wait for him to give a price or should I just throw some random offer out there?

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Most negotiation experts say always wait for the other guy to speak first, and always wait for the other guy to give a number first. I myself do not always follow this but it is sound advice in general.

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I usually start off any negotiation by saying "what do you think is fair -- I am not a nickle and dime kinda guy, and if you give me a good, fair number, I won't haggle"

 

That gets you passed I'd say 75% of the BS and usually the guy will give you a straight number...if you feel its still a bit steep - my next advice is..

 

Return with a firm, lower number that isn't too far off, and before you know it, you have a number you both can live with..

 

Another savvy trick is to try, if you can afford, to bundle a few pages together, and work with high total amounts --

 

So if you have a desire for 4 pages, priced firm each at $350,

 

Buying each page together, and offering the guy $1000 shipped -- that to some people, is a sexy offer because $1000 just sounds good!

 

Even if he counters - you are probably going to pay significantly less than the $1400 asking ---

 

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That's pretty good advice for buying. Provided the seller is a total naif.

 

Some things to consider on the flip side (i.e. if you are the one being approached to sell):

 

-- If the person asking you to sell can't even give you a number, how serious are they? If you're not looking to sell, but are getting your tires kicked, the onus isn't on you to give a number.

 

-- How well do you know this buyer? Does this person buy a lot for his collection, or is he a well-known tire kicker? Or serial lowballer? Sadly, there are guys in the hobby who are notorious time wasters.

 

-- Along those lines, is this person a collector or a dealer? And by "dealer", I don't necessarily mean an established dealer, I mean someone who routinely flips. Who doesn't have much in their collection and/or has a revolving door attached to it. If you sell to this person, you should know that odds are, the piece will get flipped. Therefore, you are leaving money on the table.

 

(But it is instructive to get offers from these types because even if you're not sure what your piece is worth, you can be confident that the market value is more than whatever it is you're being offered.)

 

-- On the other hand, if this is someone who doesn't sell much, then you can be reasonably sure the intent is not to flip.

 

-- Also, is this someone who wins at auction? Ebay, Heritage, Clink, etc.? If so, this is someone who has shown a willingness to pay top dollar. In other words, a serious buyer.

 

When it comes to selling, unless I'm overwhelmed with an offer and/or selling to a friend, my general preference is to auction my art at no reserve (and I mean true "no reserve", not a starting bid at/near market price) and let the market decide. Admittedly, this is not the best way to squeeze every last dollar out, and some pieces may go for a loss, but the sales are guaranteed. No chance of a piece getting stigmatized or stale from going unsold for too long.

 

As usual, your mileage may vary.

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Hey guys,

 

When it comes to buying art from dealers or artists directly do you find they are open to lower offers than asking price, generally?

 

It never hurts to ask, BUT don't be the guy that offers $400 for two pages that total $1075. I politely declined his "offer" first thing this morning :gossip:

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Hey guys,

 

When it comes to buying art from dealers or artists directly do you find they are open to lower offers than asking price, generally?

 

It never hurts to ask, BUT don't be the guy that offers $400 for two pages that total $1075. I politely declined his "offer" first thing this morning :gossip:

 

I was thinking more in terms 10 to 15% on a single piece or maybe 20% on the total order of 3 to 4 pieces. Not because I'm trying to low ball anyone either, but I have a budget and want to make a run at some stuff, but don't want to be the insulting guy and get blackballed by my favorite artist or a dealer who might have stuff I want down the line. I'm really not sure about the etiquette

Edited by KingKoa
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