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My road to success (Moving Update 2)
8 8

6,552 posts in this topic

So what happened with the trade ?

 

The trade is still being worked on.

 

Make it your last one (trade) for awhile. I re-read this entire thread the other day. Can't even tell you how many times people advised you to put trades on the back burner and just sell your inventory.

 

That's what I'm doing but nothing is moving yet.

 

Well - can be many reasons for that - but realize that even if priced fairly, some books will move slower than others.

 

A quick analysis for you on your ebay sales -

 

ASM 300 SS - triple signed

 

You have this listed at 850 - with 35 shipping to US.

 

2014 average - 450 last sale 650 (november)

 

You are looking for more than 20% over last GP sale on a book that dies have some specific demographics (people have to want SS - and really would want that set of sigs. Also - there is a 9.6 out there for $150 more with no haggling. This is a tough one to move quickly. To move quick - price at 650 - and be willing to take 10% off. If you want to wait it out - price at 750.

 

Astonishing tales - this is a much better price point when looking at GPA - but the demand for the reprint of a movie hyped book from a secondary line (meaning not like a FF or Avengers) - is not great. Once the movie gets closer - this may have some interest - but you are really competing with the original (there are WAY more copies of MSH 18 out there graded and for sale).

 

Han Solo variant - can get a 9.2 online for $100. If yours are that low of a grade - either auction to try and get a pop for being somewhat rare or sell outright for 50.

 

 

JLA1 coverless - this is a tough sell as coverless books are NOT in demand.

 

BATB 28 (which is the most desirable JLA key) - best cover-less price recently was 275. There is another CGC coverless on ebay for less than yours and many non graded that have sold for under 50. At a minim - price at 250 to get under the other graded offering on ebay.

 

 

 

When pricing bigger books - you have to look at your goals (sell quick, wait it out, little of both?) - -- but also look at all data. Pay close attention to what similar books have sold for - if they sell a lot - and what similar books are listing for. Most of the time - I can list slabs (the better ones that are $150+) at a premium to GPA - but still be under any other listings.

 

 

all $$$ in USD

 

 

I know it may put you at a point where you are taking a loss compared to what you paid - but we all have this happen occasionally. If you get into a mode of better decision making - then it works the other way and you can be more of a strategist with listings to maximize profit. For now - would seem to make more sense to get the books off the ledger and free up the cash.

 

 

And as others have said - I would avoid ANY facebook transactions. That is really the wild west of sales and trades - and really has little to no protections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So what happened with the trade ?

 

The trade is still being worked on.

 

Make it your last one (trade) for awhile. I re-read this entire thread the other day. Can't even tell you how many times people advised you to put trades on the back burner and just sell your inventory.

 

That's what I'm doing but nothing is moving yet.

 

Well - can be many reasons for that - but realize that even if priced fairly, some books will move slower than others.

 

A quick analysis for you on your ebay sales -

 

ASM 300 SS - triple signed

 

You have this listed at 850 - with 35 shipping to US.

 

2014 average - 450 last sale 650 (november)

 

You are looking for more than 20% over last GP sale on a book that dies have some specific demographics (people have to want SS - and really would want that set of sigs. Also - there is a 9.6 out there for $150 more with no haggling. This is a tough one to move quickly. To move quick - price at 650 - and be willing to take 10% off. If you want to wait it out - price at 750.

 

Astonishing tales - this is a much better price point when looking at GPA - but the demand for the reprint of a movie hyped book from a secondary line (meaning not like a FF or Avengers) - is not great. Once the movie gets closer - this may have some interest - but you are really competing with the original (there are WAY more copies of MSH 18 out there graded and for sale).

 

Han Solo variant - can get a 9.2 online for $100. If yours are that low of a grade - either auction to try and get a pop for being somewhat rare or sell outright for 50.

 

 

JLA1 coverless - this is a tough sell as coverless books are NOT in demand.

 

BATB 28 (which is the most desirable JLA key) - best cover-less price recently was 275. There is another CGC coverless on ebay for less than yours and many non graded that have sold for under 50. At a minim - price at 250 to get under the other graded offering on ebay.

 

 

 

When pricing bigger books - you have to look at your goals (sell quick, wait it out, little of both?) - -- but also look at all data. Pay close attention to what similar books have sold for - if they sell a lot - and what similar books are listing for. Most of the time - I can list slabs (the better ones that are $150+) at a premium to GPA - but still be under any other listings.

 

 

all $$$ in USD

 

 

I know it may put you at a point where you are taking a loss compared to what you paid - but we all have this happen occasionally. If you get into a mode of better decision making - then it works the other way and you can be more of a strategist with listings to maximize profit. For now - would seem to make more sense to get the books off the ledger and free up the cash.

 

 

And as others have said - I would avoid ANY facebook transactions. That is really the wild west of sales and trades - and really has little to no protections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

great post.

 

It should also be noted that just because GPA is something or even past ebay sales are something or auction hammers are something, doesn't mean that you should be able to expect anything remotely near those prices. Many of those sales are made by well known sellers with lots of well-known feedback and regular buyers (and other connections), as well as well known auction houses, with a very big reach. Add to that that you're in Canada. Add to that that you're publicly airing things out here. And you're pretty new. And....good luck.

 

 

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Real good breakdown here.

 

Being in Canada as well is very beneficial for selling with the way the USD is. Another thing to keep in mind, is if you bought these books when the CAD-USD was better so say ($1 USD gets you $1.25 CDN) you've already made 15% by doing nothing. It wasn't too long ago the dollar was at 1.25. This allows you to price your books cheaper to just break even if you want to recoup your funds and move forward on some better sellers.

 

One way to avoid any issues with trading on facebook is this:

 

1) Sell your item using goods and services to the other party for $X

 

2) In a separate transaction, you buy their item using goods and services for $X

 

You pay the fees... which sucks, but you're protected if you are unfamiliar with the other party.

 

 

Edited by Flashattack
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[

 

great post.

 

It should also be noted that just because GPA is something or even past ebay sales are something or auction hammers are something, doesn't mean that you should be able to expect anything remotely near those prices. Many of those sales are made by well known sellers with lots of well-known feedback and regular buyers (and other connections), as well as well known auction houses, with a very big reach. Add to that that you're in Canada. Add to that that you're publicly airing things out here. And you're pretty new. And....good luck.

 

 

Very good notes by revat here - so many items can go into how to price. Not just the elements he stated - but there are also many selling styles.

 

I have a basic ebay seller subscription. Included - I get 200 free listing a month - and they send LOTS of offers with more free listings. For non "hot" books (raw) - I have a set strategy below guide that I list them to (sometimes a little less for less desirable series or lower grades). I have many books in the pipeline - and I take a patient approach. When first listed - BIN only. Sometimes I will message over an offer to someone who expresses interest. After 1-2 months - I add in make offer - maybe lower the price. Ebay allows for me to be patient (as the relisting is free) - so I am. Every so often - I look over things and drop prices on books that might be stagnant. Sure - I have some books out there for many months - but I have been very busy lately with outside interests so I do not need to chop margins just to ship more books. I get a fair mix of newer and older listing sales - and can easily throttle up my sales if I wish by slashing prices. The key for this strategy - is to know that you will have to wait some time for many of the books to sell - and you do need to keep listing options (you should not just throw up 200 books and not refresh stock).

 

This strategy does have longer term risks - I do have a lot of stock from some great collection finds. But I am not churning through it quickly. If prices go through a big drop - I lose the potential profit that I have now. I also have to limit new buys - unless I want to add in a storage locker (and this increases that risk of a market correction).

 

 

Others - (and especially those who do this for a significant % of their income) - will churn through books a lot quicker and for less profit per book. They may make 20% less per similar books than me - but they run through 5x to 10x the stock I do and have a far greater "income". The challenge for them - is to keep finding new stock to churn through at a reasonable buying price.

 

As for selling locations - the unfortunate nature of things is that ebay is probably the best place for you. With facebook (and PAYPAL) - you will get some protection - but there are more general risks. Ebay has the largest set of customer eyes out there - so more chances to get a sale.

 

 

Selling on the boards is great - but sometimes tough to manage. I see people with dozens of books or more in a thread. This can take a lot of time to figure the logistics for invoicing and sales. Works for some - but I would rather have ebay handle all of that for me. The buyers here (generally) are also VERY educated and VERY picky. This is not a bad thing - but the majority can and will analyze buys and not pay a premium. They also - generally again - also have (or do not want) the books that are more common or in the grades a lot of us find in the while (VG to FN silver/bronze non keys as an example) - have to be significantly discounted to move.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Have you offered payment plans? If you can provide references for sales, payment plans may be an option and the buyer may be comfortable doing it.

 

I've only done that twice because people ask. I'm flexible as long as we work out a plan where we're both happy. If that leads to more sales sure I can put that as a option.

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So what happened with the trade ?

 

The trade is still being worked on.

 

Make it your last one (trade) for awhile. I re-read this entire thread the other day. Can't even tell you how many times people advised you to put trades on the back burner and just sell your inventory.

 

That's what I'm doing but nothing is moving yet.

 

Well - can be many reasons for that - but realize that even if priced fairly, some books will move slower than others.

 

A quick analysis for you on your ebay sales -

 

ASM 300 SS - triple signed

 

You have this listed at 850 - with 35 shipping to US.

 

2014 average - 450 last sale 650 (november)

 

You are looking for more than 20% over last GP sale on a book that dies have some specific demographics (people have to want SS - and really would want that set of sigs. Also - there is a 9.6 out there for $150 more with no haggling. This is a tough one to move quickly. To move quick - price at 650 - and be willing to take 10% off. If you want to wait it out - price at 750.

 

Astonishing tales - this is a much better price point when looking at GPA - but the demand for the reprint of a movie hyped book from a secondary line (meaning not like a FF or Avengers) - is not great. Once the movie gets closer - this may have some interest - but you are really competing with the original (there are WAY more copies of MSH 18 out there graded and for sale).

 

Han Solo variant - can get a 9.2 online for $100. If yours are that low of a grade - either auction to try and get a pop for being somewhat rare or sell outright for 50.

 

 

JLA1 coverless - this is a tough sell as coverless books are NOT in demand.

 

BATB 28 (which is the most desirable JLA key) - best cover-less price recently was 275. There is another CGC coverless on ebay for less than yours and many non graded that have sold for under 50. At a minim - price at 250 to get under the other graded offering on ebay.

 

 

 

When pricing bigger books - you have to look at your goals (sell quick, wait it out, little of both?) - -- but also look at all data. Pay close attention to what similar books have sold for - if they sell a lot - and what similar books are listing for. Most of the time - I can list slabs (the better ones that are $150+) at a premium to GPA - but still be under any other listings.

 

 

all $$$ in USD

 

 

I know it may put you at a point where you are taking a loss compared to what you paid - but we all have this happen occasionally. If you get into a mode of better decision making - then it works the other way and you can be more of a strategist with listings to maximize profit. For now - would seem to make more sense to get the books off the ledger and free up the cash.

 

 

And as others have said - I would avoid ANY facebook transactions. That is really the wild west of sales and trades - and really has little to no protections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks I'm doing a bit of of waiting and a quick sale type thing also usually when I don't want to lose money I try to trade it away but I do know that I'm going to have to take some losses on what I've bought as it's my mistake for overpaying.

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So what happened with the trade ?

 

The trade is still being worked on.

 

Make it your last one (trade) for awhile. I re-read this entire thread the other day. Can't even tell you how many times people advised you to put trades on the back burner and just sell your inventory.

 

That's what I'm doing but nothing is moving yet.

 

Well - can be many reasons for that - but realize that even if priced fairly, some books will move slower than others.

 

A quick analysis for you on your ebay sales -

 

ASM 300 SS - triple signed

 

You have this listed at 850 - with 35 shipping to US.

 

2014 average - 450 last sale 650 (november)

 

You are looking for more than 20% over last GP sale on a book that dies have some specific demographics (people have to want SS - and really would want that set of sigs. Also - there is a 9.6 out there for $150 more with no haggling. This is a tough one to move quickly. To move quick - price at 650 - and be willing to take 10% off. If you want to wait it out - price at 750.

 

Astonishing tales - this is a much better price point when looking at GPA - but the demand for the reprint of a movie hyped book from a secondary line (meaning not like a FF or Avengers) - is not great. Once the movie gets closer - this may have some interest - but you are really competing with the original (there are WAY more copies of MSH 18 out there graded and for sale).

 

Han Solo variant - can get a 9.2 online for $100. If yours are that low of a grade - either auction to try and get a pop for being somewhat rare or sell outright for 50.

 

 

JLA1 coverless - this is a tough sell as coverless books are NOT in demand.

 

BATB 28 (which is the most desirable JLA key) - best cover-less price recently was 275. There is another CGC coverless on ebay for less than yours and many non graded that have sold for under 50. At a minim - price at 250 to get under the other graded offering on ebay.

 

 

 

When pricing bigger books - you have to look at your goals (sell quick, wait it out, little of both?) - -- but also look at all data. Pay close attention to what similar books have sold for - if they sell a lot - and what similar books are listing for. Most of the time - I can list slabs (the better ones that are $150+) at a premium to GPA - but still be under any other listings.

 

 

all $$$ in USD

 

 

I know it may put you at a point where you are taking a loss compared to what you paid - but we all have this happen occasionally. If you get into a mode of better decision making - then it works the other way and you can be more of a strategist with listings to maximize profit. For now - would seem to make more sense to get the books off the ledger and free up the cash.

 

 

And as others have said - I would avoid ANY facebook transactions. That is really the wild west of sales and trades - and really has little to no protections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

great post.

 

It should also be noted that just because GPA is something or even past ebay sales are something or auction hammers are something, doesn't mean that you should be able to expect anything remotely near those prices. Many of those sales are made by well known sellers with lots of well-known feedback and regular buyers (and other connections), as well as well known auction houses, with a very big reach. Add to that that you're in Canada. Add to that that you're publicly airing things out here. And you're pretty new. And....good luck.

 

 

I agree it's a lot of obstacles for me to overcome I'm working on that I'll see if I can work on having someone to ship comics to in the US. One of my many mistakes it that I overpaid and when I was selling I excepted to always get top price which I know is not that case.

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Real good breakdown here.

 

Being in Canada as well is very beneficial for selling with the way the USD is. Another thing to keep in mind, is if you bought these books when the CAD-USD was better so say ($1 USD gets you $1.25 CDN) you've already made 15% by doing nothing. It wasn't too long ago the dollar was at 1.25. This allows you to price your books cheaper to just break even if you want to recoup your funds and move forward on some better sellers.

 

One way to avoid any issues with trading on facebook is this:

 

1) Sell your item using goods and services to the other party for $X

 

2) In a separate transaction, you buy their item using goods and services for $X

 

You pay the fees... which sucks, but you're protected if you are unfamiliar with the other party.

 

 

That's one of the things I keep in the back of my head and most of the smaller comics I have are what I bought in Canada. How I do transactions on Facebook is exactly how you describe it except for trades I just buy insurance. Think wanting to trade here would amount to anything? Trade wise?

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[

 

great post.

 

It should also be noted that just because GPA is something or even past ebay sales are something or auction hammers are something, doesn't mean that you should be able to expect anything remotely near those prices. Many of those sales are made by well known sellers with lots of well-known feedback and regular buyers (and other connections), as well as well known auction houses, with a very big reach. Add to that that you're in Canada. Add to that that you're publicly airing things out here. And you're pretty new. And....good luck.

 

 

Very good notes by revat here - so many items can go into how to price. Not just the elements he stated - but there are also many selling styles.

 

I have a basic ebay seller subscription. Included - I get 200 free listing a month - and they send LOTS of offers with more free listings. For non "hot" books (raw) - I have a set strategy below guide that I list them to (sometimes a little less for less desirable series or lower grades). I have many books in the pipeline - and I take a patient approach. When first listed - BIN only. Sometimes I will message over an offer to someone who expresses interest. After 1-2 months - I add in make offer - maybe lower the price. Ebay allows for me to be patient (as the relisting is free) - so I am. Every so often - I look over things and drop prices on books that might be stagnant. Sure - I have some books out there for many months - but I have been very busy lately with outside interests so I do not need to chop margins just to ship more books. I get a fair mix of newer and older listing sales - and can easily throttle up my sales if I wish by slashing prices. The key for this strategy - is to know that you will have to wait some time for many of the books to sell - and you do need to keep listing options (you should not just throw up 200 books and not refresh stock).

 

This strategy does have longer term risks - I do have a lot of stock from some great collection finds. But I am not churning through it quickly. If prices go through a big drop - I lose the potential profit that I have now. I also have to limit new buys - unless I want to add in a storage locker (and this increases that risk of a market correction).

 

 

Others - (and especially those who do this for a significant % of their income) - will churn through books a lot quicker and for less profit per book. They may make 20% less per similar books than me - but they run through 5x to 10x the stock I do and have a far greater "income". The challenge for them - is to keep finding new stock to churn through at a reasonable buying price.

 

As for selling locations - the unfortunate nature of things is that ebay is probably the best place for you. With facebook (and PAYPAL) - you will get some protection - but there are more general risks. Ebay has the largest set of customer eyes out there - so more chances to get a sale.

 

 

Selling on the boards is great - but sometimes tough to manage. I see people with dozens of books or more in a thread. This can take a lot of time to figure the logistics for invoicing and sales. Works for some - but I would rather have ebay handle all of that for me. The buyers here (generally) are also VERY educated and VERY picky. This is not a bad thing - but the majority can and will analyze buys and not pay a premium. They also - generally again - also have (or do not want) the books that are more common or in the grades a lot of us find in the while (VG to FN silver/bronze non keys as an example) - have to be significantly discounted to move.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With what's mentioned I'm doing what you're doing as in listing on BIN and waiting for those comics to sell unless I need money quicker I'll take a loss on it.

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Real good breakdown here.

 

Being in Canada as well is very beneficial for selling with the way the USD is. Another thing to keep in mind, is if you bought these books when the CAD-USD was better so say ($1 USD gets you $1.25 CDN) you've already made 15% by doing nothing. It wasn't too long ago the dollar was at 1.25. This allows you to price your books cheaper to just break even if you want to recoup your funds and move forward on some better sellers.

 

One way to avoid any issues with trading on facebook is this:

 

1) Sell your item using goods and services to the other party for $X

 

2) In a separate transaction, you buy their item using goods and services for $X

 

You pay the fees... which sucks, but you're protected if you are unfamiliar with the other party.

 

 

That's one of the things I keep in the back of my head and most of the smaller comics I have are what I bought in Canada. How I do transactions on Facebook is exactly how you describe it except for trades I just buy insurance. Think wanting to trade here would amount to anything? Trade wise?

 

Insurance won't protect you if the book is delivered to them and they don't honour their part of the trade. At least if you use my method PayPal will refund your money since they didn't honour their half of the deal.

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Real good breakdown here.

 

Being in Canada as well is very beneficial for selling with the way the USD is. Another thing to keep in mind, is if you bought these books when the CAD-USD was better so say ($1 USD gets you $1.25 CDN) you've already made 15% by doing nothing. It wasn't too long ago the dollar was at 1.25. This allows you to price your books cheaper to just break even if you want to recoup your funds and move forward on some better sellers.

 

One way to avoid any issues with trading on facebook is this:

 

1) Sell your item using goods and services to the other party for $X

 

2) In a separate transaction, you buy their item using goods and services for $X

 

You pay the fees... which sucks, but you're protected if you are unfamiliar with the other party.

 

 

That's one of the things I keep in the back of my head and most of the smaller comics I have are what I bought in Canada. How I do transactions on Facebook is exactly how you describe it except for trades I just buy insurance. Think wanting to trade here would amount to anything? Trade wise?

 

Insurance won't protect you if the book is delivered to them and they don't honour their part of the trade. At least if you use my method PayPal will refund your money since they didn't honour their half of the deal.

 

Ok I understand the protection so in using paypal would it kinda a cash plus trade? or some kinda deposit just in case?

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Think wanting to trade here would amount to anything? Trade wise?

 

I'll just throw my 2¢ in here but it seems to me that if there is a continuous theme to the advice you are being offered --- it is not to trade.

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Think wanting to trade here would amount to anything? Trade wise?

 

I'll just throw my 2¢ in here but it seems to me that if there is a continuous theme to the advice you are being offered --- it is not to trade.

 

I've noticed it too at the same time I've also tried to trade here and it didn't work out, neither does selling so what do you suggest? Tbh I do make mistakes but once I clear this trade up I'll try here should someone be interested.

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1. Do not trade

 

2. See # 1

 

3. Realize that every single trade results in an even swap at best. Majority of the time there is some Inequality. Good traders with knowledge win that battle - and you are not at that point yet.

 

4. You are not doing the same thing as me. You are hoping to get lucky on a couple of very high priced sales to try and not lose money. What I described is a patient strategy that can consistently work and make money and give a part time seller significant control over how many books will move at once. I need this control as I have the day job and am very involved with my kids activities - so trying to list and ship 50+ orders in a week requires planning. It is an incredibly poor strategy for under 10 books.

 

5. See # 2

 

6. I tried to explain it in a way that would help you analyze sales prices better - but a more blipping way - nobody will pay 100 for a 7.0 SW2 when they can get a 9.2 from a reputable dealer for the same price. Or ones that present better on eBay for 70. Your books are not selling because you are overpriced. The same more than a lot of the eBay sellers that are made fun of on the boards. If you want to move the books and have the money to do other things or take a better approach to buying/selling - then research and price properly. Otherwise take them off the market. You seem to get frustrated that they do not sell - then use that as an excuse to make a trade. Pack them away and save yourself the frustration - take a break and focus on short term employment. Come back to it when you can accept the loss as a learning moment and have accepted the changes you need to make to be successful.

 

7. You have this fear of being shortchanged in selling - but continue to try and trade where it is a very high probability that you will get lesser value. This is a loss. See #3. Then #2 . Then # 1. Then #5.

 

8 do not trade.

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1. Do not trade

 

2. See # 1

 

3. Realize that every single trade results in an even swap at best. Majority of the time there is some Inequality. Good traders with knowledge win that battle - and you are not at that point yet.

 

4. You are not doing the same thing as me. You are hoping to get lucky on a couple of very high priced sales to try and not lose money. What I described is a patient strategy that can consistently work and make money and give a part time seller significant control over how many books will move at once. I need this control as I have the day job and am very involved with my kids activities - so trying to list and ship 50+ orders in a week requires planning. It is an incredibly poor strategy for under 10 books.

 

5. See # 2

 

6. I tried to explain it in a way that would help you analyze sales prices better - but a more blipping way - nobody will pay 100 for a 7.0 SW2 when they can get a 9.2 from a reputable dealer for the same price. Or ones that present better on eBay for 70. Your books are not selling because you are overpriced. The same more than a lot of the eBay sellers that are made fun of on the boards. If you want to move the books and have the money to do other things or take a better approach to buying/selling - then research and price properly. Otherwise take them off the market. You seem to get frustrated that they do not sell - then use that as an excuse to make a trade. Pack them away and save yourself the frustration - take a break and focus on short term employment. Come back to it when you can accept the loss as a learning moment and have accepted the changes you need to make to be successful.

 

7. You have this fear of being shortchanged in selling - but continue to try and trade where it is a very high probability that you will get lesser value. This is a loss. See #3. Then #2 . Then # 1. Then #5.

 

8 do not trade.

 

I've lowered my prices on everything except for one comic and your strategy I'll go over again. As for taking a break I will once I sell my comics but I'm focusing more on getting a job. I've made money losses but if I made these ones they'd be substantial.

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Quick note - I did see that you lowered some of the eBay prices - this is a good step - note that o do not think that eBay had any form of trading so I would change that one description - would also stop trying to trade anywhere

 

I'll check what I put trade as I think my jla ng I believe.

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You seem to keep skipping over one very obvious piece of advice everyone is giving you.

 

Will you state that you will stop all trades? Make it a New Year's resolution. No trades until 2017.

 

Are you willing to commit to that?

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You seem to keep skipping over one very obvious piece of advice everyone is giving you.

 

Will you state that you will stop all trades? Make it a New Year's resolution. No trades until 2017.

 

Are you willing to commit to that?

 

That's where the problem lies if I don't trade I either have to sell for a loss or wait till it reaches a price where I can make a profit on it.

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8 8